Central Highlands and Mackay – 9 to 14 June – Finch Hatton to Mackey and Home

Day 8

A still morning at Marian Sugarmill

Steam rising almost vertically on a still morning as we passed Marian sugar mill

Moving on to Mackay was the main item on the day’s agenda. We drove the 70 km or so to Mackay, turning north at Marian to the Bruce Highway and approaching Mackay from the north.  The morning was clear with almost no breeze. We quickly settled into the Andergrove Van Park. We have been here before so know our way around.

 

Birds feeding near our caravan

Birds feeding near our caravan

We arrived just before midday, set up the van and had lunch. But there were delays while we chatted with a West Australian couple, of about our vintage, who arrived at the neighboring site, as we were setting up.

Then to chores that needed our attention, so washing and a trip to the shops completed the day.

Day 9

We were visited by a group of ducks

We were visited by a group of ducks

Last night Ruth encountered some problems with access to the Internet, with her computer and pad, while trying to connect to the Internet through the mobile hot spot facility of her mobile phone. So first order of the day was to get it sorted. A young technician at the nearest Telstra shop solved the problem in about two minutes, but there was a bit of a wait for his services, so we did not return to the van until lunch time.

Sunset Beach at Shoal Point

Sunset Beach at Shoal Point

After lunch we went for a drive to the near northern beaches. I love this part of Queensland and could easily live here. Three promontories point northward into the Coral Sea, giving ocean views to the north and to a certain extent, to the west. Each has elevated terrain at their northern extremities and locals have taken full advantage of high ground when building their homes.

Dolphin Heads from the deck at the Eimeo Hotel

Dolphin Heads from the deck at the Eimeo Hotel

We started at Shoal Point, which is furthest from Andergrove, and returned through Bucasia, Eimeo, Dolphin Heads and Blacks Beach. We called at the Eimeo Pacific Hotel for Devonshire Tea. The hotel is a beautiful old building, situated at the top of a hill at the most northern point of the promontory. It has an extensive deck with umbrella shaded tables.  Views are over neighboring Dolphin Point including the Dolphin Point Resort and to the not very distant outlining islands, that are part of an island chain that runs all the way to the Whitsunday Islands.

Eimeo Hotel deck

Eimeo Hotel deck

Lamberts Beach and Mackay Harbor

Lamberts Beach and Mackay Harbor

We returned back south and past our caravan park to drive in the other direction to Slade Point. At the tip of the point is a car accessible observation point that provides panoramic views of Mackay Harbor and the marina with its village of high rise apartments and hotels. In the distance, to the south and east, views are to be had of the twin coal loading facilities of Hay Point and Dalrymple Bay, with their cluster of loading ships and the armada of waiting empty bulk carriers out to sea.

Yacht entering Mackay Harbor

A yacht entering Mackay Harbor

We finished the day by driving out to the end of the harbor breakwater. The parking area there gives another view of the coal loader and waiting ships plus a view of the harbor facilities. At that time of day they were silhouetted against the setting sun. About 25 years ago I had close commercial involvement in this part of Queensland. It was fascinating to see the development that has occurred during the last quarter of a century.

Day 10

Beach at Cape Hilsborough

Beach at Cape Hillsborough

Today we did a tour of the more distant beach locations north of Mackay. We repeated the first few kilometres of yesterday’s trip but then cut across through the small town of Habana to the Cape Hillsborough road. The drive was through more cane fields in an area of undulating terrain where each hill top seemed to be crowned by a house.

Mountains behind the beach on Cape Hilsborough

Mountains behind the beach on Cape Hillsborough

Cape Hillsborough has a caravan park, where we stayed for a few days about six years ago. Today we parked at the picnic area in the national park for coffee before taking a walk on the beautiful beach. The beach is not beautiful in terms of brilliant white sand. The sand is grey in colour and muddy nearer the water, as the tide was out. It’s beauty comes from the rocks sculptured by waves, wind and rain over the ages, the steep hills that fringe the beach and the dramatic mountains that form a backdrop. And then there is the implied romance of off shore islands, partially obscured by haze.

Beach side houses at Ball Bay

Beach side houses at Ball Bay

In then, in turn, visited Ball Bay, Halliday Bay and Seaforth. These towns of varying size each has its own bay , beach and a residential area of old fishermen’s hut type houses with newer residential and holiday homes built among them. Each town has an esplanade behind the beach, a park with facilities and a swimming enclosure to keep box jellyfish and crocodiles at bay.

Birds feeding under a tap.

Birds feeding under a tap.

We lunched under a picnic shelter at Seaforth, the largest of the towns. A family, returning from the beach, stopped at a tap near to our table to wash sand off their feet. The resulting pool of fresh water was quickly taken over by ducks and seagulls that seemed to enjoy a long drink of fresh water. They showed no fear and provided us with entertainment as we had our lunch.

Empty swimming enclosure at Seaforth

Empty swimming enclosure at Seaforth

This latish lunch marked the end of our outing, so we headed back to the van for some preparation for our departure next day for home.

 

 

 

Picnic facilities at Seaforth

Picnic facilities at Seaforth

Days 11, 12 & 13

We had allowed ourselves three days to travel home. The weather was deteriorating as we came south and getting colder.

Water birds being fed at the caravan park

Water birds being fed at the caravan park

The first day brought us to the minute town of Yaamba, which is on the highway not far north of Rockhampton, for an overnight stop in a road side parking area. Once again we had heavy traffic thundering by with trains in the distance. But we are becoming immune to truck noise and enjoyed a good night’s sleep. There was heavy rain over night but we did not hear it.

A bulk carrier on its way into the Gladstone coal terminal

A bulk carrier on its way into the Gladstone coal terminal

For the evening of day two we had arranged to call on my former secretary from Mayne Nickless days. We had some time to spare before arriving at her home so drove into Gladstone and found a parking spot with views of the harbor and shipping activity. There we relaxed and had lunch. Two empty coal carriers were escorted to their births by tugs while we watched.

Former secretary Sandy has a brand new husband who we had not met, so we accepted an invitation to dinner and to park overnight in the spacious grounds around their house, on the northern fringe of Bundaberg. They are developing the property into a wedding reception and conference centre. The attractive property has areas of forest and lush green lawns. We enjoyed their company and the meal prepared by hubby Ian and learned much about the challenges of establishing such a business.

There was a bit more rain overnight and more as we came further south, with frequent showers passing.

On our way back south we discovered the missing caravans from our trip north. They were all coming north on the Bruce Highway. The spare spaces that we had seen in caravan parks were in process of being filled.

Final Highlights

 

Lovely sunset. We had hardly seen a cloud in six weeks

Lovely sunset. We had hardly seen a cloud in six weeks

The caravan park south of Sarina, at which we stayed for four nights, is the Cape Palmerston Holiday Park. It is named for its proximity to Cape Palmerston and the Cape Palmerston National Park. The National Park is just a few kilometres to the north.

We were not the first on the beach that day

We were not the first on the beach that day

After vegetating for a day, we decided some activity was in order, so we packed a picnic lunch and headed off for the National Park. The initial road was of good quality but once past the park boundary it rapidly deteriorated. There was no improvement until we reached the beach, after which, for the next 8 km, we were on a veritable highway. The ramp to the beach was solid gravel and the beach was wide and flat with only a few soft places. The sky was near to cloudless and a slight breeze blew. And we had it all to ourselves.

The road emerged from the bush to present this view

The road emerged from the bush to present this view

The satin ride was short lived. Another gravel ramp lead us to a 4wd track that has probably not seen a piece of maintenance equipment since the mounds were made to stop rain water washing the road away. We made our way carefully over the heavily rutted track, taking considerable pains to place the wheels so as to minimise tyre damage and to not scrape any of the components under the car on high spots on the road. There is good reason for classifying these roads as high clearance only.

Lots of space on this beach

Lots of space on this beach

The road winds up from the beach, over higher country with broad views of ocean and islands and back to the beach again at the site of the first camping area. This idyllic spot is only a clear grassed area, its extent marked by scrub on three sides and a low single rail fence along the beach. But it has its own crescent beach and even a launching ramp over the beach, in case you brought your own boat. And it has a toilet.

There was some time to go before lunch could respectably be eaten so we decided to press on further north towards Cape Palmerston. The track did not improve and we were most conscious that every torturous meter forward meant an extra torturous meter back. After about another

Our lunch time view

Our lunch time view

kilometer we reached a fork in the road that was not on the map. Rather than chase wild geese we returned to the camping area and enjoyed our lunch of fresh prawn sandwiches with hot coffee. A prawn farm is located next door to the caravan park which enables management to offer large king prawns to their guests at attractive prices. Yum!

Ready ti drive down the beach

Ready ti drive down the beach

Lunch over, we made our way back the way we had come, down the rough track and along the beach. The tide was well down by now.  The tidal range was about 5 meters so 3 hours of ebb tide took the water’s edge a long way down the flat beach.

There was still quite a bit of the day left so we drove through the collection of sea side houses know as Greenhill to see what was there. There were only houses. There is no commercial activity at all. We then retraced our steps a little to drive to Notch Point, the northern protrusion on a promontory that forms the northern extent of a shallow sandy bay not far south of the caravan park.

I think this is called getting away from it all

I think this is called getting away from it all

We passed sugar cane fields with the harvest in full swing and some operating aquaculture ventures, probably prawns, and a new facility under construction, before making our way along a rough sandy track to a camping area, totally devoid of creature comforts, but a place of great natural beauty. And probably great fishing as well because fishing is the attraction, not the scenery.

You won't be shot here but perhaps you could be taken by a croc

You won’t be shot here but perhaps you could be taken by a croc

But dangerous territory, apparently! To the side of the road towards the water were signs warning of crocodiles and on the landward side, inside a fence that followed the road, signs warning trespassers that they would be prosecuted and their dogs shot.

The view to the south across the bay

The view to the south across the bay

Despite these warnings there were the expected tents and camper trailers and some surprisingly large caravans that would have required considerable patience to tow along such a track. On our way out we met a man on foot. We chatted and found that he was another large caravan owner determining if he could get his van in. Someone back along the road somewhere had told him that it was not a place to be missed. His car and van were blocking the road so we “went bush”, as you do under such circumstances, to get around him.

Our next move was to Gladstone to visit Beautiful Betsy. Who, I hear you say?

We had an audience for morning tea

We had an audience for morning tea

Beautiful Betsy was a USA Liberator bomber that went missing in February 1945 on a flight from Darwin to Brisbane. She was discovered 49 years later, crashed, on the western end of Kroombit Tops, south west of Gladstone. The crash site is now in the Kroombit Tops National Park in a special remembrance area dedicated to the memory of the eight crew who perished with her. She was named for the wife of her first pilot.

Looking over the plateau to Kroombit Tops

Looking over the plateau to Kroombit Tops

Kroombit Tops is worth a visit, even without Betsy. It rises almost one thousand metres above the coastal plain and provides great views of the coast and the Boyne Valley from the viewing platform on its eastern side. The road from Calliope is categorised as suitable for conventional vehicles. The road up the escarpment is steep and winding but it is sealed. For most of

Ruth on the viewing platform enjoying the view

Ruth on the viewing platform enjoying the view

the distance to the steep bit the road is good gravel. From the National Park boundary the surface is fair but would need care in a small vehicle.

 

 

 

Part of the view from the lookout

Part of the view from the lookout

The altitude makes for a different climate to that on the coast, with rain forest to the east and dry bush country to the west. Betsy came down on a moderately timbered ridge, only requiring about another

The introductory plaque at the start of the walk

The introductory plaque at the start of the walk

100 metres of altitude to clear it all together. Aviation experts believe that the aircraft was off course and too low. In the predawn light the crew saw the hills in their path, increased power and tried to climb but pancaked into the hillside due to momentum that carried the plane forward before it started to climb.

Betsy was not armed so there was no explosion nor was there a fire. The plane disintegrated on impact.

An engine where it came to rest

An engine where it came to rest

The four engines broke free and kept going, rolling up the hillside until they stopped near the top. It is thought that all crew died on impact.

Beautifully Betsy had seen service in the Pacific where, during hostilities, the air frame became stressed to the point that it was no longer reliable as a bomber. But it was suitable for lighter duties and, stripped of its armaments was used to fly in more palatable food supplies than the standard fare known to USA airmen as “the Darwin diet”. Its cargo was as diverse as fresh fruit, ice cream and live chickens.

Part of the fuselage and wing

Part of the fuselage and wing

The doomed aircraft and crew

The doomed aircraft and crew

The crash site is on a four wheel drive track that appears to have been pushed through by a bulldozer and then left to fend for itself. Parts are quite steep and rough with exposed boulders and washouts. But the crash site is well kept with a constructed path. Informative plaques have been placed by the path. This arrangement allows visitors to move through the site in an orderly way and to understand what they are seeing.

The view towards Gladstone from the top of the range

The view towards Gladstone from the top of the range

Only one other couple was there, moving through the site ahead of us. It was a somber experience, probably a bit more so following recent events involving a passenger aircraft in Europe. One passenger on the aircraft, the remnants of which we were viewing, was on his way to Brisbane to be married. Another was to have been his best man.

Our intention had been to follow the four wheel drive track through the full loop. It becomes a one way track from the turn to the crash site and we soon found out why. After about 200 metres a sign said, “Four Wheel Drive Only. Steep Rocky Decent”. And they were not joking. As far as we knew we were the last people that day in what was a remote area, so we erred on the side of caution and returned by the way we had come.