Harrington was a special place to our family. Dad was born and raised in the Lansdowne area, just west of the mouth of the Manning, and had fished the training walls along the river since his youth. Holidays there were always about fishing and I have fond memories of helping to eat Dad’s catch.
There are two hills that are part of
the town. They rise from the flat river plain like a giant had emptied two huge buckets of dirt by the river. One has a water tower and houses. The other has a lookout and houses. I believe the hill with the lookout is Flagstaff Hill.
A pilot station was built on this hill in 1856 but was closed in 1861 after the death of one William
Whitmore. One of Dad’s sisters was named Whitmore, so I am wondering if there is a family connection.
The views over the Manning Estuary are excellent, particularly of the paved training wall from which Dad did most of his fishing. Late in the day Ruth and I walked along the wall, following the
setting sun and walked back as the daylight faded. We noted several plaques attached to some of the rocks on top of the wall, obviously in memory of departed fisher folk to who this wall must have been a special place.
We then drove the 8 km to Crowdy Head, the sight if a lighthouse and a harbour which is mainly used by professional fishermen but also provides access to the open sea for hobby anglers.
A story attaches to this place as well. I mentioned a couple of posts back ferrying a yacht from Sydney to Brisbane. Having sailed through the night passing Port Stephens,
we were rather tired by the end of the next day, so decided to spend the night in a port. We were trying for the Camden Haven River but when it became clear that darkness would beat us we settled on Crowdy Head as an alternative.
One of my crew, the previous owner, was a New South Welshman and the other a Queenslander and that night was
a State of Origin league football match between Queensland and NSW. My intention was to buy them a pub meal where they would be able to watch the match. But Crowdy Head doesn’t have a pub or any other eating establishment. I had to settle for buying fresh fish fillets at the cooperative and serve them a meal of yacht cooked fish and chips while we listened to the match on the radio.
Crowdy Head still does not have much of a commercial centre but there is a cafe at the surf club but that would have been too far to walk. The headland is crowned by the heritage lighthouse and its slopes adorned with very expensive houses. They are probably owned by successful folk from Taree.
We then drove north through the Crowdy Bay National park to Diamond Head and then on to the triplet towns of Laurieton, Dunbogan and North Haven on the Camden Haven River. We found a pleasant place for lunch overlooking the river.
To the south of Laurieton lie the Brother Mountains. There are
three of them, North Brother, South Brother and Middle Brother. They are prominent mountains and can be seen from a great distance. I recall using North Brother for a compass bearing during the yacht passage. Prominent mountains usually provide great platforms for lookouts and such is certainly the case with North Brother.
Lunch completed we drove the
steep 5 km ascent to the North Brother summit. We had been there before, but the view is one that can be enjoyed time and again. The view of the mouth of the Camden Haven River and the three towns is spectacular as the accompanying photo attests. Looking south the Watson Taylor Lake, skirted on the west by the Pacific Highway, is no less impressive, particularly the long
neck of land through the river runs before it discharges into the lake.
Middle Brother is clearly visible from its northern brother. We decided to drive to its summit where a tall communications tower is located. But I made a navigational error and ended up on a dead end road. As the day was quickly getting away we decided to leave Middle Brother as unfinished business to be addressed at another time. As we followed the Pacific Highway south to return to Harrington we passed a road boldly sign posted “Middle Brother Road”, so now we know where to start out drive next time.