Far North Queensland – 2024- Days 14 to 16 – Airlie Beach to Home

Posted on September 28, 2024 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

We woke early on Thursday morning, as daylight flooded into our bedroom. I arose to greet the morning and to photograph the sunrise. Out on the horizon was an inbound cruise ship, sister ship to the boat in port yesterday.

As sunrises go, this one’s a bit disanointing

There was little cloud, so no early indication of where the sun would rise. I waited well beyond the published time of sunrise and then realised that old Sol was coming up right behind the highest mountain peak opposite to Airlie Beach. So, there was no brilliantly coloured sunrise to photograph.

Our view towards the ocean with the
cruise day markets in the open space

In the open area between the town and Port of Airlie, a market was taking shape. I assume that it is there for the additional visitors that the cruise ships bring to town. Even with the extra numbers, the town did not seem all that busy. But I guess many of the day visitors were doing things among the islands or on the reef.

Coffee was on offer here but there was no
seating or view

Around mid-morning we went out looking for coffee and headed towards Cannonvale, hoping for a water view. The only place that fitted our specifications was crowded. I took a walk along the Bicentennial Walking Track to build my days step count. We then went back to the town area of Airlie Beach where we achieved our coffee location objectives.

A small residential enclave at Cannonvale

Part of the Bicentennial waterside walking track

Marina Shores apartments neat the Airlie Beach boat harbour

Our eventual coffee venu in Airlie Beach

The man who took our coffee order asked if we were off the cruise ship. That lead to a discussion during which he told us that he was a retired charter skipper, so we talked Whitsunday Islands and cruising for a few minutes. As a retired recreational sailor myself and having chartered a catamaran in the Whitsundays with a group, this was something of a reminiscence, bringing back pleasant memories.

Our Airlie Beach stop was for two nights, for a bit of a break. We did not have a fixed program. We looked around at familiar sights, then returned to our unit to enjoy the view, lunch and a sleep, in that order.

Hillside residential has views that bring visitors back

A House Sparrow briefly alighted on our balcony rail

Ruth seated in part of the bar dining area at Northerlies Bar

Suitably rested, we drove out through Cannonvale to Woodwark to check out Northerlies, a large pub and bistro that provides magnificent views back to Airlie Beach. Too soon to eat again, we made do with one drink and returned to our unit for another restful evening.

Airlie Beach from Northerlies at Cannonvale

There had been speculation about morning fog at Cannonvale on the evening news. Airlie was clear and almost cloudless as we checked out, but heavy banks of fog blanketed most of Cannonvale but only effected the road in a couple of places.

Yeppoon, on the coast near Rockhampton, was our destination for the day. There is a good rest stop at Waverley Creek, north of Marlborough, that we have used for years. Once again, we stopped there for lunch. A fellow traveller stopped by to tell us of an explosion that had closed the highway south of Gladstone. We were not going that far on this day, so we paid little attention and continued on to Yeppoon and then Kinka Beach for the night.

A small sample of the Magpie Geese in the
swamp at Emu Park

After booking in to our motel, we drove to nearby Emu Park for supplies. I noticed some Magpie Geese beside the road on the way in. On our return we stopped to have a closer look, The geese had taken over a large area of swamp with heads poking out of the reeds. Hundreds of them.

Later, on the evening news, we heard all about the explosion and learned that the highway would be closed for several days. The explosion had been caused by a double road train carrying a full load of Ammonium Nitrate, the explosive used in the coal mines inland from the coast. The explosive had become mixed with diesel from the prime mover and did exactly what it was designed to do. BOOM.

On Saturday morning, when we reached South Rockhampton, signs confirmed Highway closure near Bororen, south of Gladstone. A section of two-lane highway had been demolished. No traffic could pass.

We considered back roads to take us to our next accommodation at Bargara, on the coast near Bundaberg. Finally, we decided to make directly for home. Our new route led through Mount Morgan, Biloela, Monto and Mundubbera, returning to the Bruce highway at Gympie, less than 150 km from home.

Weekend traffic meant fewer large trucks. The section of the road between Dululu and Biloela was undergoing extensive repairs necessitated by recent high rainfall. We were stopped at red lights for roadwork probably between fifteen and twenty times. Despite such interruptions we were making good time. We stopped at Biloela for a refuelling break for the car and ourselves and for a late lunch break at the road junction at Ban Ban Springs, east of Gayndah.

Then, at Gympie, we took a final break at Lake Alford, the rest area just south of the town. The lake is a water bird sanctuary. I fitted the birding lens to my camera and took a stroll. The sun was about to set and the birds were active as they so often are at the end of the day. The result was some good bird photos and shots of the setting sun and afterglow, for good measure.

It was an easy run from there on divided highway all the way to our turn from the highway at Burpengary.

Now in our mid-eighties and with Ruth’s mobility issues we have handled this trip quite well, we think. Well enough to have our next trip planned. Late in October we intend to go south again, to meet relatives and see more of this wonderful country in which we live.

Far North Queensland – 2024 – Days 13 to 15 – Atherton to Airlie Beach

Posted on September 23, 2024 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

Our original plan for our return had been a short drive to Atherton and then to return to Redcliffe via the inland route, through Charters Towers, Emerald, Roma and then home. But forecasts were predicting that burst of warmer weather towards the end of August. When we realised that the day we were to arrive in Roma the temperature was predicted to be 37C we recast our plans. We had come north looking for warmth, not heat.

All the ducks in a row. Pacific Black Ducks in this case

We were not able to cancel our Atherton motel booking so left it in place. It is not that much further to go south from Cairns via the Palmerston Highway to Innisfail, so that is what we did. Our new plans included a night at Townsville, two at Airlie Beach and then one each at Yeppoon and Bargara.

From our brunch break at Smithfield, we drove directly to Mareeba, stopping only at road works. That meant several stops. Our one stop in Mareeba was at Coffee Works where we enjoyed an ice-cream and acquired a bottle of their own locally made chocolate liquor. It is among our daughter-in-law’s favourite tipples, so makes a good present. This time for her birthday.

Before going to our Atherton accommodation, we drove to the south of the town, to Hastie’s Lagoon, a water bird sanctuary. The area around the lagoon is really a national park. It boasts an impressive two-level bird hide. But Atherton birds are every bit as smart as birds in other places and were mostly sitting or floating just beyond the the extreme range of my longest lens.

North Johnson River below where it emerges from the mountains

Next day, Tuesday, we had an uneventful trip to Townsville with breaks to view the one place where the North Johnson River Innisfail, coffee at North Innisfail and the Hinchinbrook lookout. We stopped for lunch at Ingham before heading to our Townsville accommodation, one block back from The Strand. We had views of The Strand area and out to Magnetic Island.

Madison Seabreeze Hotel, our Townsville accommodation

I took a stroll to The Strand and did my daily walk, in company with some of Townsville’s early evening walkers. I stopped to take photos while most other walkers just walked. We were all enjoying a pleasant evening.

Wednesday dawned with total cloud cover and a ground mist. As we were packing, a light shower drifted in from the ocean temporarily obscuring Castle Hill. As the lookout at the top of that huge pile of rocks was our first objective for the day, we watched with mild anxiety, but good luck prevailed. By the time the we checked out and set off the rain had cleared and some lighter areas of cloud were starting to show.

North Ward and the northern end of The Strand

The summit of Castle Hill was quite clear and reasonable for visibility and photos, although there was still rain falling to the west. The overnight rain had extinguished a large grass fire on Palm Island that had been sending huge clouds of smoke over the area north of Townsville and if still burning would have made photography problematical.

Traffic on the Bruce Highway was the heaviest that we had experienced south of Townsville, with constant traffic going north. But we still made good time. We made ourselves a cup of coffee at Brandon, just north of Ayr. South of Home Hill we drove the steep road to the picnic area at the summit of Mount Inkerman.

The mouth of the Burdekin River from Mount Inkerman

Last time that we made that drive we had to leave the caravan at the bottom beside the road. Drought prevailed and everything was brown and burned. This time greenery stretched to the horizon inland and to the Coral Sea to the east.

We called at Bowen for lunch and made it to our unit at Whitsunday Terraces at Airlie Beach by mid-afternoon.

Sunset over the hills behind Airlie Beach

We had booked to ensure a view, and while our accommodation was not as elevated as on our previous visit, we still had great views of the town, Whitsunday Passage and the many boats at anchor outside of the harbour. Beyond the boats was a P&O cruise liner, at anchor waiting for the return of day tripping passengers. With not too much daylight left passengers were soon boarded and the ship weighed anchor and commenced its overnight cruise, disappearing from view to the north west.

The sunset was a great display of colour. I pleasing end to the day.

Far North Queensland – 2024 – Days 9 to 11 – Fitzroy Island

Posted on September 21, 2024 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

Drizzle from the previous day had become overnight rain but had cleared by morning, leaving small puddles in the depressions in the paths and car park. We packed what we needed for the next two days and loaded the car. Ruth made her way down fourteen steps for the last time. We were happy with Cairns City Palms as a base and would return. But to a ground floor room next time.

The car was left parked in the secure parking area beneath the Shangri-La Hotel. We were left with a short walk to Fitzroy Island ferry reception. Then a longer walk to the ferry, as it was berthed far out on the longest wharf.

A P&O cruise ship was in Cairns harbour. We could not see its name but it was probably Pacific Encounter. Cruise ships moor really close to the city. Just a short walk to all that Cairns city has to offer.

Yarrabah Indigenous community covers much of Cape Grafton

There are almost always clouds around in tropical areas but they were mostly confined to the mountains. We enjoyed both a sunny and smooth crossing to the island. Fitzroy Island is just south of Cape Grafton, the peninsula south of Trinity Bay. The ferry stayed close to the shore. The only point of interest on the way is the large Indigenous settlement of Yarrabah. Green Island was visible in the hazey distance to starboard (left).

We were last off the ferry at Fitzroy Island as Ruth needed assistance on the gangway. That put us on the tail end of the queue at reception. The wait meant that our room was ready for us to occupy, which we immediately did.

Fitzroy Island Resort stretches along much of the natural bay that it faces. The accommodation wing has three floors but has lifts. We were on the ground floor in a studio room, without a water view, but the were plenty of places for us to sit with water views, sip drinks and talk to fellow guests.

The main swimming beach is a short walk from the accommodation

Facilities include all those that you would expect on a tropical island. One oddity is that the restaurant serves only breakfast and dinner but not lunch. At lunch time the dining room is used for day visitors on cruises that include meals.

Entrance from beach and access to the pool

Other ferry operators use Fitzroy Island for day cruises. Some drop their passengers and return later while others anchor off the beach for the period of the visit. Most visitors swim, sun bake, snorkel or dive.

Fitzroy Island “boasts” a nude beach, signposted on the island as the “Nudey Beach”. It is a walk of about 500 metres over a rocky path. The only bathers that we sighted on that beach were clothed. But “clothed” is a relative term on most beaches these days.

Guests and day visitors on uncatered trips have meals and drinks at Foxy’s Bar, located about 200 meters from the hotel. That is not a long walk, but the surface of the path is loose gravel, which made it a bit of a challenge for Ruth’s walker. But we managed.

We had realised before booking that food costs on an island with “captive” guests would be expensive and we weren’t wrong. Breakfast was $35 each and a two course evening meal was $66, either starter and main or main and desert. I think it was $86 for three courses. But the food was of good quality. At dinner we both had a starter of grilled prawns and main of roast duck breast. Quite delicious. Breakfast was buffet, and a well stocked buffet at that.

Beach where diving and snorkel boats beach to load passengers

Part of the outdoor dining area at the resort

We used Foxy’s Bar for dinner the second night and for lunch on our full day. Prices were lower, as most of Foxy’s Bar clients are day visitors who don’t have to eat main meals there. Drink prices were similar to mainland prices.

One of my reasons to return after our day visit a couple of years ago, was to do the walk to the lighthouse, which was reported to give good views of the island and adjacent coast. My walks guide book described it as a “moderate” walk along the old concrete road that was used to service the lighthouse in its manned operating days. The light now operates automatically, as they do in most lighthouses there days.

Wheel tracks that lead to the lighthouse. This was still the easy bit

The track was “moderate” in the same way as you experience “moderate” temperatures with one foot in the fire and the other in a bucket of ice. The first section is along the strip behind the beach. It is quite flat where it passes staff accommodation, the Cairns Turtle Rescue building and managers residence. Then the twin concrete wheel tracks started to climbed the ridge at what looked to me like a 45-degree angle.

The view of the lighthouse from the ferry

I persevered for an elevation gain of about 100 metres and decided to give it away. There was about another kilometre and a half to go and then a couple of kilometres back. The return downhill most of the way could be worse. A young couple, on their way back, were running down the slope. Oh, for those days again! My knees are the original set and are almost eighty five years old.

I made my way back down to level country then made my way to the beach and photographed my way back to the hotel. I realised on this visit that the lighthouse can be seen from the ferry when it is a bit off shore. It is quite elevated.

View of Cape Grafton on the mainland, from the resort Beach

Cairns Turtle Recovery Centre. Sick and injured turtles are brought here to recover and be released

Unwilling to fork out another $70 for two breakfasts, we purchased two muffins from the small island store which sufficed when supplemented by coffee from the room supplies. Foxy’s Bar does not open until 10.00 am by which time we were on the water on our way back to Cairns.

Back in Cairns, we paid the price to liberate our car and headed out to Smithfield, at the bottom of the climb to Kuranda and inland, where we enjoyed brunch before we commenced the climb up the range, heading to Mareeba.

Far North Queensland 2024 – Days 7 & 8 – Port Douglas & Green Island

Posted on September 18, 2024 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

a typical part of Cairns Botanic Gardens

I don’t think that we have ever visited Cairns without also visiting Port Douglas. Oh wait! On our first ever trip to Cairns, a road trip from Melbourne, at Christmas, about 56 years ago, we hadn’t even heard of Port Douglas and neither had most other Melbournians. We hadn’t heard of Christopher Skase, either.

As Thursday was the only day without a fixed starting activity, I took the opportunity to walk to The Esplanade. Reports suggested that the beach and water side parklands was a great bird photography sight. But not that day. I arrived at about 7.30 am but it seemed that half of Cairns had beaten me there. Clearly it is a favourite aera for morning exercises and there were many exercising. But they weren’t doing it quietly. I took some photos, but mostly birds with which I am already familiar.

First of all, we visited the Cairns Botanic Gardens. Unsurprisingly, it is a tropical rain forest paradise. A day at least could be spent wandering around the paths and roads. Even longer if you include the visitor centre and its coffee shop. I limited myself to about half an hour, but it was time well spent.

Botanic Gardens Visitor Centre including a cafe.

From the gardens we drove to Machins Beach to see the mouth of the Barron River. The banks of the stream and the beach seem to be popular fishing spots and a location for some quiet free camping. But I could sense those Crocodiles lurking just beneath the surface of the water. Much happier in our unit.

Barron River a little upstream from the mouth

Machins Beach near the Barron River mouth looking north

Palm Cove is one of our favourite places. We have fond memories of our brief stay there a couple of years ago. As we were passing, we called in for coffee and the views of the Coral Sea and Double Island. Double Island used to be home to a luxury resort. Cairns council is conducting a public conversation in an attempt to decide its future tourist use. A decision in principle seems to have been reached to redevelop it.

We drove on along that magic stretch of coast. Work is still in progress to fully restore the parts of the Cook Highway damaged in the deluges that followed Cyclone Jasper in December last year. Just a couple of delays were involved.

Four Mile Beach has seen some improvements at its northern end since we were last in Port Douglas. A new amenities block with changing facilities has been completed. Two new casual dining establishments now offer food and drink. New ramps and stairs provide improved access to the beach. In addition, there is now an area of striped umbrellas providing shade from the sun over sun lounges. The beach is rather a windy spot so I am not sure how they get the umbrellas to stay in place.

We made our normal visit to Flagstaff Hill to view, and photograph, the town and beach. Then off in search of a parking spot near Macrossan Street so that we could find a place for lunch. We chose a street side eatery called the Iron Bar. It was a bar, substantially constructed of corrugated iron. We dined from large share taste seafood platter.

A new eating location at Four Mile Beach. The new bathing facilities are right next door.

Four Mile Beach from Flagstaff Hill Lookout

The drive back to Cairns was incident free, with a repeat of the road works stops on the way up, but with us facing the opposite direction.

Cairns Harbourside from Green Island Ferry

Friday was our last day in Cairns. We had booked a ferry trip to Green Island. It was over fifty years since we had last visited. Since then the Jetty has been extended, the underwater observatory had gone and a resort has been built.

It was not a brilliant day, with strong winds and drizzle periods. The sun was in hiding for most of the day, but it was still about 25C, and comfortable if you were sheltered from the direct wind. We established ourselves in the public area near to the resort reception. There were lots of youngsters about. The pool generated a continual cacophony of sound.

The first time that I photographed a Buff-banded Rail, I thought that I had found something special. But at Green Island they are as common as Pigeons in a city park. They feed off tourist food scraps and are deliberately fed by some tourists, including us.

Green Island is a true coral cay. To make walking easier than ploughing through soft sand, extensive boardwalks have been built, including one that leads to the far south-east corner. Visitors go there to swim on calmer days or to kitesurf on days like we were experiencing. I walked there looking for birds that some claim to be quite profuse. But that must be on days with less wind. I found a few, but they were all in hiding from the wind. They included two Eastern Osprey hiding behind a chain-wire fence. They must be regularly fed, so don’t need to go fishing. Or perhaps it was too windy for them too.

This is where you get coffee at Green Island

Green Island Public Pool later in the day with only a few children

Another view of Green Island public area

With departure time near and rain squalls about, we made for the ferry. On the last unprotected stretch a gust of wind took my prised Tilley hat, which will now be on the floor of Davy Jones Locker. Pity! I will need to replace it as I had become quite attached to it. But obviously it was not attached to me quite well enough.

The swimming beach faces North, away from the prevailing south-easterlies

An Intermediate Egret sheltering from the wind

This Eastern Reef Egret looks like it is a bit cold

Back in Cairns the weather was fine. We were welcomed back to our parked car by the largest group of Bush-stone Curlews that I had ever seen. But my hands were too full of bits and pieces from the day out for me to take a photo.

Green Island and ferry jetty, from the ferry

A photo from the previous day of a Bush-stone Curlew

We returned to our unit via a laundromat. The washing had been accumulating.

Far North Queensland – 2024 – Day 6 – Skyrail and Kuranda Scenic Railway

Posted on September 17, 2024 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

Ruth and I photographed by one of our Japanese fellow passengers

It was a big day, for both of us, but particularly for Ruth.

We were picked up from neat to our motel by the Skyrail shuttle bus and were driven directly to the Skyrail terminal at Smithfield, as we were last pick up. There were rain clouds around with a clear treat of rain, but it was holding off or the moment.

Smithfield homes, as we lifted off at Cairns Skyrail Station

We had taken care when booking to ensure that Ruth would be able to access the Skyrail gondolas and were assured that she could be accommodated. And accommodate her they did. The Skyrail gondolas can be stopped for short periods. The whole section of the system can be stopped if necessary. But slowing was all that was required. I folded Ruth’s walker and took it on board. Staff then helped Ruth to board and get her seated. There was even time for two more people to join our gondola.

The gondola ahead about to pass a support pylon

So, we were whisked away into the air and carried towards the top of the first lift, which is also the first stop. The cable car operation is divided into two separate sections. The first lifts the cars to the top of the range to Red Peak where gondolas turn and return to the start. The Western section lifts gondolas from Kuranda through Barron Falls to Red Peak.

Most passengers alight at both stations. At Red Peak it is compulsory, unless you want to return to the start. The rainforest walk attracts most passengers. It is a most pleasant walk on an even surface. The walk at Barron Falls provides good views of the entire length of the Falls and much of the gorge.

View back over Trinity Bay to Cape Grafton

Part of the Board Walk at Red Peak station

The boardwalk was very suitable for Ruth’s walker, as the grades were gentle and the pathway quite wide. Displays and signs help visitors to understand what they are seeing.

A Strangler Fig tree beside the boardwalk at Red Peak station

At Barron Falls, a staff member to whom we spoke, showed us video on his phone of the falls at full flow. It would be spectacular to see. By the time that we arrived, high flows of a week or two earlier had reduced, but there was still a good volume of water flowing over the drop.

It is very peaceful gliding above the tree canopy. Breaks in the vegetation give glimpses of the under story, as do the walks at the stops. As you top Red Peak, the ranges of the Great Divide roll away into the distance and you look directly into Barron Gorge.

There is plenty of warning before the final station. The public address system asks you to look up so that a camera can take your photo while you are still in the gondola. For about $30 you can buy a copy of the photo. We passed on that.

When booking, we enquired about transport to the town, as that’s where all the services are, including lunch. They weren’t very clear, but we suspected that it would be necessary to walk. Our suspicions were confirmed by the absence of obvious modes of transport. So, we set off on foot with the other arrivals.

Barron Gorge and the hydro-power station, driven by water from a dam at the top of the Barron Gorge

The view into the Barron Gorge from Skyrail

Passengers on the short walk to the falls viewing point

The walk was about 500 metres I guess, and moderately steep, but we made it with a couple of rest stops. The first cafe that we saw got our business. That was my first coffee for the day, so it was most welcome. Rested, we walked a bit of the town and then took the path back down to the Kuranda Scenic Railway station which is adjacent to the Sky Rail station. We were there in plenty of time to rest up for the train journey.

A Banyan tree on the walk to Kuranda township

The Kuranda Hotel. Too many steps for suitable lunch venu

Last time we did the SkyRail and train experience we had seats to the left of the train when facing forward. That put other passenger heads between us and the view. The passenger in the window seat leaned out of the window most of the way taking photos so we saw little. This time we had a row of four seats to ourselves, so visibility was not a problem. Unfortunately, as the train stopped at Barron Falls Station, the rain started to fall so the photographic opportunities were quickly abandoned. The rain continued, so no one hung out of the windows taking photos.

Towards the bottom of the steep part of climb the railway passes Stoney Creek Falls and the bridge over Stoney Creek. This bridge is the most outstanding bridge on the line. The falls can be seen to the west of the line, towering above the train and cascading for tens of metres into a waterhole. Shortly after this point the train negotiates Horseshoe Bend, a very tight turn in railway terms. Passengers can look back or forward, depending where they are sitting on the train, and see the opposite end of the train preceding or following them. Negotiating the turn is done at a very slow pace, with much screeching of wheels on steel rails.

The rear of our train, partly obscured by the window frame

The sun was shining again by the time we reached Cairns. I walked back to our motel to collect the car, returned to the station to collect Ruth. Then back up fourteen steps.

An Orchid beside our small rear balcony in Cairns

Far North Queensland 2024 – Days 3 to 5 – Rockhampton to Cairns.

Posted on September 9, 2024 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

Area near the river and CBD in Rockhampton

In the days before we set off for Far North Queensland, my Facebook news feed had regularly thrown up tourism advertisements from Rockhampton tourist authorities promoting the magnificent views available from the lookout at Mount Archer and a tree top walk on the same mountain top. That all sounded good, so after a short drive along the banks of the Fitzroy River on the South side, we crossed the river and took the road to Mount Archer.

Much of the mountain is a national park, the boundaries of which commence at the bottom of the hill. Like most national parks the roads have a 40-kph speed limit. We were immediately behind a tourist bus which was climbing the mountain at 20-kph. The road is very winding but after a while the bus driver signalled us past and we were able to return to the speed limit.

A limited view of the Fitzroy River from Mount Archer

Rockhampton from the neighbouring residential area

Parkland by the river near Rockhampton CBD

We reached the summit, but what a disappointment! When the lookout was first built the views probably were spectacular. But it seems that the influence of Green councillors has precluded trimming of the trees, to the point where they obscure most of the view. One of our fellow visitors was lamenting that he had not brought his chain saw,

Of the treetop walk we could find no sign, nor any mention of it on the signage at the park entrance. The best views are to be had from the small area of residential development that shares the mountain top with the national park and enjoys permanent spectacular views.

Our Bowen cabin with our car parked at the front stairs

We had booked a caravan park cabin in Bowen for two nights. It was a while since we had spent much time in Bowen, which is an attractive regional centre, with some excellent tourist facilities. The cabin was in good condition, fairly new and comfortable. It was located at the Queen’s Beach Tourist Village, which was packed with grey nomads.

Bowen is located on a peninsula and has both a northern and southern aspect. Horseshoe Beach at the north-eastern tip provides an easterly aspect as well.

Kings Beach between Horseshoe Beach and Flagstaff Hill

Coral Cove at the North-easterly tip of the North facing beaches

On the day we had available, we started at the mouth of the Don River and worked our way east to Horseshoe Beach and Rose Bay. The day was perfect and holiday makers were making the most of it. We made a quick call at Mullers Lagoon to check for bird life before visiting the main town centre. On our last visit here we still had a caravan and stayed at the caravan park by the harbour.

North Head Island Lighthouse marks the northern point of the entrance to Bowen Harbour

Finally, we drove to the summit of Flagstaff Hill for the views over the town and back south over the bay to Cape Gloucester and Gloucester Island, before returning to the cabin for lunch and a rest.

At about 4.00 PM we returned to Muller Lagoon for some bird photography and from there went back to Flagstaff Hill to watch the sunset from that vantage point. It wasn’t a great night for sunset colour, as there was almost no cloud cover to the west, but to watch the changing light on Bowen Harbour and the moon rise over Gloucester Island was not a bad substitute.

On successive trips north we have noticed the increase in horticulture and market gardens, that seem to be expanding around the larger towns and occupying some of the land formally used for sugar cane production. Bowen has mangos aplenty as indicated by the Big Mango at the southern approach to the town, but tomatoes are now very much in evidence. I wonder if we will ever see a Big Tomato at the entrance to the town.

A nesting tree of Little Pied Cormorants

Bowen is a coal town with many of its residents employed at the gigantic coal loading facility at Abbott Point, just 30 km to the north. In addition, I would think it an ideal location for fly in fly out employees in the mines of the Bowen Basin just over the range to the west. Perhaps drive in drive out as well.

The Big Mango is located at the Visitor Information Centre at the southern entrance to the town

On Tuesday morning we departed to Cairns under cloudy skies. By Townsville the sky had darkened and as we passed through Ingham and approached the mountains near Hinchinbrook Island, the rain started to fall in earnest. An umbrella was required to leave the car for lunch at Innisfail, during what was, according to the news, a 50 mm fall of rain.

Just south of Cairns the rain abated, but returned after we had settled into our motel unit in North Cairns. When it rains during holidays you just have to deal with it. The greater problem was that in booking I had failed to specify a ground floor room, so Ruth had to make it up fourteen steps. We dealt with that problem, for the four nights that we were there, by going out in the morning and returning at the end of the day, when all activities were done.

Far North Queensland Again – 2024 – Days 1 & 2

Posted on September 7, 2024 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

Note: Click on pictures to enlarge.

Each year, as winter arrives in South East Queensland, I start to make comments about moving to Cairns. At least for the remainder of the Winter. But it is in jest. To do so is not practically achievable. But we can visit.

Fraser Island viewed from Matthew Flinders LOokout — Fraser Island viewed from Matthew Flinders Lookout

Since our retirement in 2009, we have tried to spend as much of Winter as possible travelling in warmer climes, even if that created the need to travel through colder areas coming from or going to the warmer parts of the country.

For the last few years, at least since we sold our caravan, we have travelled North, usually during August. By the start of August, the colder weather has usually got to me to the extent that a chance to start Spring early is very persuasive. We missed last year, as our daughter who works in India, was back in Australia, but this year we put plans in place.

Ariadne was the first ship to bring settlers direct;y yo Hervey region

Originally the plans were to go to Cairns by train, with a sleeper berth on the Spirit of Queensland but we ultimately recognised that Ruth’s balance and mobility issues made that a poor choice. That arrangement would have had us returning home by air but we recognised that air travel out of a regional airport also had its problems. So, we decided that I would drive, but that we would take it in easy stages. We sort of did that, but necessity did dictate some variations.

Memorial and Plaque to commemorate the landing of Lt Flinders at Hervey Bay.

We left home on 16^th August with Hervey Bay our first destination. We left home after morning coffee and made Gympie by lunch time. The new bypass is not yet open, but beyond barriers we could see the new dual carriageway stretching ahead of us. We came into town for lunch and departed in the direction of Rainbow Beach until we reached the road to Maryborough, which we followed to that town and proceeded to Urangan.

A Crested Tern in the rail of Urangan Pier.

While looking at maps before departure I had noticed the Matthew Flinders Lookout that is located between Urangan Harbor and the Urangan Pier. The lookout provided photographic opportunities, a parking space and toilets. Afterwards we moved the short distance to the base of the pier. Ruth remained in the car but I took more photos as I added to my daily step count along the famous Pier.

Our motel was at Pialba. After settling in I took my camera on a walk to acquire supplies for the evening. Perched on a power line just behind the motel I spied some birds, which I photographed. They were new to me and when compared to my bird identification book turned out to be a Black-face Cuckoo-shrike and a small group of White-breasted Swallow.

Rockhampton was our next destination. Just a little under 400 km for the day, we added about another 50 km by doing a detour to Turkey Beach, a town that most motorists just pass by. Turkey Beach is one of the few, perhaps the only, outpost of civilisation between Seventeen Seventy and Tannum Sands. It is a fishing village on one of the many inlets from the ocean that extend among the peninsulas and Mangrove swamps of the area.

Memorial to Mr Ken O’Dowd MP former federal member for Wide Bay

A good picnic area with amenities and a general store are its main amenities along with a launching ramp and stinger free swimming enclosure. A couple of women, enjoying the playground facilities with their children, assured us that it was a magic place to live.

A short drive, during which we stopped to examine a couple of American Brahmin bulls, brought is to the regional city of Rockhampton, situated as it is beside the broad waters of the Fitzroy River, with its many moored boats and hidden crocodiles.

The Road Home – The Manning Coast & Home – October 2023

Posted on October 28, 2023 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

First glimpse of the Sugarloaf Point Lighthouse at Seal Rocks near Bungwahl, NSW.

Our destination that day, Tuesday, was Harrington at the mouth of the Manning River, near Taree, the town where I was born almost eighty-four years ago. We stopped for coffee at Raymond Terrace, then kept to the highway that now bypasses Bulahdelah, the town of my youth. We were headed for Seal Rocks, on the coast near the eastern end of the Myall Lakes.

The rocks on which the sighting of Seals generated the name of the area.

Seal Rocks has some significance to me as it was a place that my father always wanted to go to fish. But around thirty years ago it was the first landfall sighted on the second morning of our voyage when I sailed a yacht bought in Sydney up the coast to Brisbane. I climbed to the lighthouse on my recent visit to look down onto the rocks from which it gets its name. They are low and flat and not all that conspicuous from the water, hence the lighthouse that is still in operation. The rocks do however appear much more significant from the deck of a small yacht, particularly one that you own and must navigate safely past the rocks.

Surging waves at the base of the headland of Sugarloaf Point.

Seal Rocks lighthouse is an active lighthouse but long since converted to automatic operation.

Like much of that coast, it is a very attractive with a surprising number of good quality houses and a caravan park. Its popularity is drawn from its kindness to the fishermen who visit it and the pleasant beaches that keep families happy and compensate for the attention of the fisherman (hunter gatherer?) being directed elsewhere.

An original lighthouse keeper residence and the local lifesaving club building at Sugarloaf Point.

Boat Beach, Seal Rock. The lighthouse is over the hill to the right.

A juvenile Osprey waiting for food at its National Parks provided nesting platform north of Tiona on The Lakes Way, NSW.

After Seal Rocks we returned to The Lakes Way and continued towards Forster, pausing at a Osprey nesting platform to photograph a juvenile bird that was perched, probably waiting to be fed. After a quick lunch for ourselves in Forster, we continued on our way to Harrington to occupy our cabin.

Crowdy Head Harbour at the mouth of the Manning River, NSW.

We had booked Harrington for two nights but were offered a third night at half rate, which we accepted. But when we checked in their booking system was down. “We will fix the problem tomorrow”, they said. But when tomorrow came and the system was back online, they discovered that the cabin had been booked by someone else for that night. They didn’t offer an alternative and we didn’t ask. Instead, we booked one night at a motel in Taree.

Great Eastern Egret at Cattai Wetlands, Coopernook, NSW.

A gliding Brahminy Kite at Cattai Wetlands.

Australian Darter and Little Pied Cormorant. They wouldn’t need to travel far for food.

On our first day in Harrington, we spent the morning catching up on washing followed by a sea food lunch at neighbouring Crowdy Head. A sea food meal as we watched the sea, with Whales frolicking in Crowdy Bay wa just the ticket. We weren’t complaining at all.

There were multiple hectares of waterlilies at Cattai Wetlands.

After lunch we drove back past Harrington to the Pacific Highway at Coopernook so that I could take a walk around the 2.5-kilometre track at Cattai Wetlands. The position of the sun was a problem, morning would have been better, but I saw and photographed a few birds and viewed wide areas of water lilies. I am a bit of a fan of water lilies. The walk was most enjoyable but was terminated at increased speed when I realised, about three quarters of the way around, that I was running out of time. The area closed at 3.00 pm, just 20 minutes away.

The famous Gantry. So well known that an eating place in town is named after it, The Gantry.

Finally, before we returned to our cabin, I did a walk along the rock training wall at Harrington. This wall was a favourite fishing site for my father from the days of his youth and a site to which he took us on holidays a number of times. It was also a favourite with my late brother Ivan. Despite the pleasantness of the afternoon there was not a fishing person in sight. I walked about 75% of its length, pausing to read many of the memorial tributes to departed fishermen that have been fixed to the rocks along the wall.

The stone wall has a bridged gap, known as The Gantry. I recall it being one of Dad’s favourites fishing spots. The wall is built out to an island that is near to the river bank which together with the wall forms an anabranch of the river. The Gantry allows for the ebb and flow of the tides into the lagoon, formed by the wall.

The Eastern end of the Harrington training wall.

The main training wall at Harrington with the river to the left and the lagoon and anabranch of the river to the right.

Manning Point on the southern bank of the Manning, through afternoon salt haze.

Pilot Hill at Harrington. Ships were guided over the bar from this vantage point in the early days of settlement.

The Training Wall and Manning Point from Pilot Hill. You can see the size of the lagoon. Tidal waters flow to and from it through The Gantry.

Norfolk Pines in Harrington’s main street with the lagoon behind.

The main street of Wootton and The Wotton Way.

Thursday was exploring day. We turned south and turned into Wootton Way which, when we lived on it was called plain old Wootton Road. It was part of a string of roads that lead from near Newcastle to Taree. In their early married life my parents tried to eek a living out of a soldiers settlement block on Newmans Road, that joined Wootton Road at Wotton. The road is still mainly gravel with some patches of sealed road where the road crosses streams. I lived there as a baby and again about 75 years ago, so was not surprised that much did not look familiar. I suspect that the old house is long gone. I think I identified the location, but it was hard to be sure.

Myall Lake at Mayres Point on The Lakes Way.

From Wootton we accessed The Lakes Way via Wattley Hill Road, a road that has been there since first settlement in the area, but one over which I had never travelled. We drove in to Myall Lake to check out the sight of Sunday School picnics of three quarters of a century ago. It is now all overgrown.

The Boat House at Smiths Lake, south of Forster, NSW. The building contains a cafe and boating facilities.

The sand bar that separates Smith Lake from the Pacific Ocean. The town of Sandbar is to the left, right on the coast.

Blueys Beach is just off The Lakes Way near Pacific Palms. It was favourite beach for locals in my youth and had only beach shacks.

We called in to several beaches that we frequented in younger days including Smith Lake, Pacific Palms, Blueys beach and Elizabeth Beach. We again stopped at Forster for lunch.

On our way from Forster to Taree we diverged so that we could look at Harrington across the river. The diversion lead us over some of the islands that make up the Manning River Estuary. Harrington is clearly visible from there. Manning Point has some tourist facilities but is much smaller than Harrington.

Jetty near the shopping centre at Forster, NSW.

The old Forster fishing cooperative now sells fishing supplies, has a cafe which of course sells coffee.

Pelicans roosting on the boat shed roof at Forster, NSW.

The shark proof swimming enclosure at Manning Point.

Harrington through the Pine trees at Manning Point.

The mouth of the Nambucca River at Nambucca Heads, NSW.

We spent our night in Taree, setting out next day, our last day but one, on the four hundred plus kilometres to Ballina. We made two diversions. The first into Nambucca Heads trying to find a coffee shop. We ended up at the service centre back on the highway. The town was parked out, but we did get to a couple of lookouts and one beach. Nambucca Heads is worth a longer visit.

The coast south of Nambucca to Scotts Head and Smokey Cape (South West Rocks) in the far distance.

Finally, we drove through Grafton to find lunch and photograph Jacarandas. There seems to be less of the distinctive purple trees than I remember from previous visits. Lunch done, we departed the town over the new bridge over the Clarence River and re-joined the highway at Tyndale, to continue the drive to Ballina.

After another brief and pleasant visit with Joe and Thelma we proceeded home, arriving mid afternoon. So ends another drive along that most familiar coast.

The Road Home – The Great Northern Road – October 2023

Posted on October 26, 2023 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

Before our 10.00 am checkout we took the elevator to the roof garden on 15^th floor. That vantage point provides views of the area, including the Sir Kingsford-Smith Airport.

Sydney Airport from the roof garden of Meriton Suites Hotel in Mascot, Sydney.

Enjoying reduced traffic, we headed north through Sydney suburbia. As we approached the Hawkesbury River we were experiencing caffeine withdrawal so we turned into Brooklyn, to the Brooklyn Corner coffee shop, across the street from the Brooklyn Hotel.

A solitary coffee drinker at the next table struck up a conversation with us, probably after seeing our Queensland registration plate. He had just returned to his old hometown after forty years living in the Brisbane suburb of Windsor. He lives in Mooney Mooney, where we had lunch the previous day. Coffee cups empty, he headed home, and we returned to the car to resume our journey.

Historic culvert on Great Northern Road, Wollombi, NSW.

A plaque at the sight of an historic culvert on the Great Northern Road, Wollombi, NSW.

Our day end destination was Cessnock, but we turned from the highway at Calga and took the road through Central Mangrove to the historic town of Wollombi, a very pleasant drive of 78 kilometres, through mostly farmland and bush. Near the locality of Bucketty, the road that we were on intersects with the old Great Northern Road. The Great Northern Road was the first road ever built between Sydney and Newcastle. It was convict built so is over two hundred years old. That’s old for a structure in Australia. Some road works, particularly culverts, have been preserved and memorialised. Although they no longer carry the road they are intact and serviceable.

ST Johns Anglican Church, Wollombi, NSW.

The road from Calga to Bucketty is George Downes Drive. Together with the Northern end of the Great Northern Road it still provides a useful link into the Hunter Valley. The road appears to be popular with motor bike riders, as it is part of a circuit to and through the Hunter Valley wine region and back to Sydney via the M1 Motorway. Calga to Wollombi provides lots of those sweeping curves so beloved by motorcyclists.

Eating establishments in the main street of Wollombi NSW.

Tourist traffic has kept Wollombi a viable town. Two roads lead into the wine region from there, either via Broke or directly to Cessnock.

Wollombi has a number of eating establishments in its main street, plus a tavern at the southern entrance. There are two historic churches and an old wares shop with an aging but stately Bentley for sale at the entrance. The town also has one of the best constructed and maintained amenities blocks at its rest area, that we have seen in a long time.

St Michael the Archangel Roman Catholic Private Chapel and the old wares shop. complete with a dated Bentleigh car.

We left Woolombi along Wollombi Road that runs beside and crosses Wollombi Brook, a stream that ultimately makes its way to the Hunter River. Broke is a small town on the fringe of the wine area. We passed many vineyards and wineries with their supporting infrastructure. I love the disciplined order of vineyards, particularly when they are set out on undulating ground, the rows forming parallel threads of green. It is particularly so now, as the vines are set with juvenile bunches of fruit.

Wollombi Tavern – on the left as you enter the town from Sydney.

Tavern outdoor area. It was a light day for motor bikes.

Grape vines in the Hunter Valley near the mountains that form its southern boundary.

We reached our cabin in Cessnock via queues of traffic caused by road works on the only access street. We had replenished our supplies for a quiet night in after reaching town, so didn’t have to experience the delay a second time. The following morning, as we approached the exit road to execute a right hand turn, we were confronted by a line of banked traffic reaching out of sight to our left. But as the traffic control lights changed to green a kind lady at the head of the stream of traffic signalled to us to enter. We appreciated the kind gesture.

The NBN transmission tower on Mount Sugarloaf

The previous night we had decided to start our day with a visit to Mount Sugarloaf, the mountain behind Newcastle on which the television transmission masts are located. The shortest route from Cessnock took us over country roads. At one point we passed the large decorative gates of the homestead on a grazing property. We could see a waterway behind the house as we turned a bend in the road and drove up a hill. The increased elevation provided a view of a huge modern house built on the edge of a very large dam. Not far from the main house, also on the water’s edge, was the remains of an old brick building, possibly the original homestead. It was such a tranquil scene that we continued to look at it for several minutes. The featured photo at the head of this post is our view after driving past the property.

It is many years since we had last visited Mount Sugarloaf. We found it is virtually unchanged. Despite the views over the Greater Newcastle area, including the Port on a clear day that it provides, no work has been done to turn it into the tourist attraction that it could undoubtedly be. I passed on the walk to the summit. It was a bit steep for my old legs.

To cap things off, visibility was not good due to a heavy haze, as the photo below demonstrates.

The view over the Newcastle area from Sugarloaf. The city is out there in the line between land and ocean.

There is more to come from the activities on this day. That will be part of the next blog post.

South to Sydney – October 2023

Posted on October 23, 2023 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

Our daughter Kara works and lives in India. As she is an Australian citizen, she must return to Australia at least every five years to renew her visa. Kara is involved in that process right now.

Visiting Relatives and friends fills a great proportion of her time. We chose her necessary journey to Sydney to offer transport and combined with a visit to relatives and friends, thus killing to birds with the same stone, as the saying goes.

Pleasure boats anchored at Warners Bay, near to our Newcastle motel.

We departed Redcliffe on Wednesday 4^th October but only travelled to Ballina, where we spent the night with friends Thelma and Joe, who have been mentioned in these pages previously. They are among our oldest friends and have known Kara all of her life. As usual they provided a pleasant overnight stay.

On Friday we covered the six hundred plus kilometres to Newcastle with the next day spent calling on two of Kara’s aunts and an uncle. There our paths diverged. Kara caught a train back to Port Macquarie to spend time with friends there while Ruth and I continued on to visit daughter Briony in Sydney, after spending Friday night in Newcastle.

We first called on Briony at her Erskineville unit where we were unable to stay as she currently has a visiting English flat mate. We had booked at the Mascot Merriton Suits, so with Briony in tow we went to book in. Formalities complete we walked around the corner for lunch.

Frenchman’s Bay, La Perouse with jetty construction on the left.

The Macquarie Watch Tower was built by Governor Macquarie in 1821-22 to house troops keeping watch for smugglers at La Perouse on Botany Bay. It is among the oldest Colonial structures remaining in Australia.

Rather than just sit around and talk we took a drive to La Peruse for some great views of Botany Bay on an almost cloudless day. We found a parking space after a search so that we could enjoy the views and absorb the history of the place. A new ferry terminal is under construction. It will become the northern end of a ferry service from a matching new terminal at Kurnell.

On our way to dinner at one of the outside restaurants at the new Marrickville shopping centre, we drove through that east coast residential area that parallels the coast from Cape Banks to Bronte. Every available square centimeter has been built on already, but they still find space for more. Literally thousands of million dollar plus houses. Who could ever assess their value?

Sashimi entre at the Japanese restaurant at Marrickville.

Eating with Briony is always an adventure. This Saturday evening was no exception. A Japanese restaurant provided the location for our culinary adventures. I had not dined on Ramen cuisine previously and I am afraid that I can’t remember the names of dishes, but it was very tasty and satisfying. The food met the requirement to be easy to chew, a present necessity as Ruth breaks in a new upper denture.

Pleasure boats in the Empire Marina at Bobbin Head.

Part of the picnic area at Bobbin Head in the Kar-ang-gui Chase National Park

Briony didn’t have any place that she wanted to visit on Sunday. She said that we were the visitors and should go where we wanted. But when I said that we would head for the water ways of the Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park she miraculously discovered the Hawkesbury River Oyster Farm at Mooney Mooney. It is not a coincidence that she loves oysters.

A Pelican at Brooklyn with its head pulled in.

We coffee’d up from the takeaway at Briony’s units and headed north over the Harbour Bridge and along the highway to the most northern turn to Bobbin Head. All was relatively quiet on a Sunday morning, but the cafe at the Empire Marina had a reasonable breakfast morning and their lunch trade was making its way through the gate in reasonable numbers.

Our lunch booking was for 1.30 pm, so we had some time to spare. We called in at Brooklyn where we were entertained by Pelicans looking for food. The solitary fisherman retrieving his boat had let them down, it seems. With time to spare we returned to the rest area by the Hawkesbury River.

The Hawkesbury River road bridges. both new and old.

The restaurant is at the bottom of a step pinch on the riverbank which would have been a scramble for Ruth and her walker but a departing customer provided a vacant parking space right at the front door. Sometimes you get a win.

Oysters Mornay at Hawksbury River Oyster Farm. My favourite way to eat oysters.

Entre of Scallops Mornay at the oyster farm restaurant.

The restaurant takes bookings, but there is no table service other than for delivering hot food. Orders are placed at the counter. You carry cold dishes to the table yourself. We had a combination. Fresh King Prawns, Oysters mornay and mint flavoured and battered fish with salad. In Brooklyn Briony had acquired three small bottles of Champagne. The tables are right beside the river. The queue waiting to place orders didn’t seem to get any shorter even though the service was quick. Very pleasant!

Diners waiting to place orders at Hawkesbury River Oyster Farm.

We drove back towards Sydney, cutting across suburbia to Terry Hills where we took the turn to West Head and Church Point. A sign warned that the West Head Lookout was closed for renovation, but we drove out there anyway. Briony had not been there before, although she was with on many of our river excursions when resident in Castle Hill. The road temporarily terminates before the view is in sight. We retraced our steps and turned for Church Point.

Dining by the Hawkesbury River. Photo just after we had vacated our table.

Church Point was an important place in our lives during one of my business transfers to Sydney. Our small yacht was moored there, so it was the starting point for many of our aquatic adventures.

We returned to the south side via Mona Vale Road and Ryde Road and the Pyrmont Bridge. It was back to work for Briony next day, so we dropped her off for a quiet night and returned to Mascot for a quiet night of our own.

We make our way home in the next blog.

Kevin & Ruth Sheather

The Mobilesheathers – exploring Australia

Category Archives: Major Journeys