Far North Queensland – 2024 – Days 9 to 11 – Fitzroy Island

Portside hotels in Cairns

Drizzle from the previous day had become overnight rain but had cleared by morning, leaving small puddles in the depressions in the paths and car park. We packed what we needed for the next two days and loaded the car. Ruth made her way down fourteen steps for the last time. We were happy with Cairns City Palms as a base and would return. But to a ground floor room next time.

Cruise ship in Cairns Harbour

The car was left parked in the secure parking area beneath the Shangri-La Hotel. We were left with a short walk to Fitzroy Island ferry reception. Then a longer walk to the ferry, as it was berthed far out on the longest wharf.

A P&O cruise ship was in Cairns harbour. We could not see its name but it was probably Pacific Encounter. Cruise ships moor really close to the city. Just a short walk to all that Cairns city has to offer.

Yarrabah Indigenous community covers much of Cape Grafton

There are almost always clouds around in tropical areas but they were mostly confined to the mountains. We enjoyed both a sunny and smooth crossing to the island. Fitzroy Island is just south of Cape Grafton, the peninsula south of Trinity Bay. The ferry stayed close to the shore. The only point of interest on the way is the large Indigenous settlement of Yarrabah. Green Island was visible in the hazey distance to starboard (left).

The hotel dominates the protected beach

We were last off the ferry at Fitzroy Island as Ruth needed assistance on the gangway. That put us on the tail end of the queue at reception. The wait meant that our room was ready for us to occupy, which we immediately did.

Fitzroy Island Resort stretches along much of the natural bay that it faces. The accommodation wing has three floors but has lifts. We were on the ground floor in a studio room, without a water view, but the were plenty of places for us to sit with water views, sip drinks and talk to fellow guests.

Nudey Beach did not live up to its name
A ferry at the jetty
The main swimming beach is a short walk from the accommodation

Facilities include all those that you would expect on a tropical island. One oddity is that the restaurant serves only breakfast and dinner but not lunch. At lunch time the dining room is used for day visitors on cruises that include meals.

Entrance from beach and access to the pool
Swim up bar and pool
Beachfront accommodation

Other ferry operators use Fitzroy Island for day cruises. Some drop their passengers and return later while others anchor off the beach for the period of the visit. Most visitors swim, sun bake, snorkel or dive.

A visiting ferry at the wharf

Fitzroy Island “boasts” a nude beach, signposted on the island as the “Nudey Beach”. It is a walk of about 500 metres over a rocky path. The only bathers that we sighted on that beach were clothed. But “clothed” is a relative term on most beaches these days.

Foxy’s Bar behind the palms

Guests and day visitors on uncatered trips have meals and drinks at Foxy’s Bar, located about 200 meters from the hotel. That is not a long walk, but the surface of the path is loose gravel, which made it a bit of a challenge for Ruth’s walker. But we managed.

We had realised before booking that food costs on an island with “captive” guests would be expensive and we weren’t wrong. Breakfast was $35 each and a two course evening meal was $66, either starter and main or main and desert. I think it was $86 for three courses. But the food was of good quality. At dinner we both had a starter of grilled prawns and main of roast duck breast. Quite delicious. Breakfast was buffet, and a well stocked buffet at that.

Beach where diving and snorkel boats beach to load passengers
Departing ferry and visiting catamaran
Part of the outdoor dining area at the resort

We used Foxy’s Bar for dinner the second night and for lunch on our full day. Prices were lower, as most of Foxy’s Bar clients are day visitors who don’t have to eat main meals there. Drink prices were similar to mainland prices.

Staff accommodation

One of my reasons to return after our day visit a couple of years ago, was to do the walk to the lighthouse, which was reported to give good views of the island and adjacent coast. My walks guide book described it as a “moderate” walk along the old concrete road that was used to service the lighthouse in its manned operating days. The light now operates automatically, as they do in most lighthouses there days.

Wheel tracks that lead to the lighthouse. This was still the easy bit

The track was “moderate” in the same way as you experience “moderate” temperatures with one foot in the fire and the other in a bucket of ice. The first section is along the strip behind the beach. It is quite flat where it passes staff accommodation, the Cairns Turtle Rescue building and managers residence. Then the twin concrete wheel tracks started to climbed the ridge at what looked to me like a 45-degree angle.

The view of the lighthouse from the ferry

I persevered for an elevation gain of about 100 metres and decided to give it away. There was about another kilometre and a half to go and then a couple of kilometres back. The return downhill most of the way could be worse. A young couple, on their way back, were running down the slope. Oh, for those days again! My knees are the original set and are almost eighty five years old.

I made my way back down to level country then made my way to the beach and photographed my way back to the hotel. I realised on this visit that the lighthouse can be seen from the ferry when it is a bit off shore. It is quite elevated.

Our departure ferry arriving
View of Cape Grafton on the mainland, from the resort Beach
Cairns Turtle Recovery Centre. Sick and injured turtles are brought here to recover and be released

Unwilling to fork out another $70 for two breakfasts, we purchased two muffins from the small island store which sufficed when supplemented by coffee from the room supplies. Foxy’s Bar does not open until 10.00 am by which time we were on the water on our way back to Cairns.

Back in Cairns, we paid the price to liberate our car and headed out to Smithfield, at the bottom of the climb to Kuranda and inland, where we enjoyed brunch before we commenced the climb up the range, heading to Mareeba.

Far North Queensland 2024 – Days 7 & 8 – Port Douglas & Green Island

a typical part of Cairns Botanic Gardens

I don’t think that we have ever visited Cairns without also visiting Port Douglas. Oh wait! On our first ever trip to Cairns, a road trip from Melbourne, at Christmas, about 56 years ago, we hadn’t even heard of Port Douglas and neither had most other Melbournians. We hadn’t heard of Christopher Skase, either.

As Thursday was the only day without a fixed starting activity, I took the opportunity to walk to The Esplanade. Reports suggested that the beach and water side parklands was a great bird photography sight. But not that day. I arrived at about 7.30 am but it seemed that half of Cairns had beaten me there. Clearly it is a favourite aera for morning exercises and there were many exercising. But they weren’t doing it quietly. I took some photos, but mostly birds with which I am already familiar.

First of all, we visited the Cairns Botanic Gardens. Unsurprisingly, it is a tropical rain forest paradise. A day at least could be spent wandering around the paths and roads. Even longer if you include the visitor centre and its coffee shop. I limited myself to about half an hour, but it was time well spent.

Tropical flower in the Gardens
Botanic Gardens Visitor Centre including a cafe.

From the gardens we drove to Machins Beach to see the mouth of the Barron River. The banks of the stream and the beach seem to be popular fishing spots and a location for some quiet free camping. But I could sense those Crocodiles lurking just beneath the surface of the water. Much happier in our unit.

Barron River a little upstream from the mouth
Machins Beach near the Barron River mouth looking north
Double Island off Palm Cove Beach.

Palm Cove is one of our favourite places. We have fond memories of our brief stay there a couple of years ago. As we were passing, we called in for coffee and the views of the Coral Sea and Double Island. Double Island used to be home to a luxury resort. Cairns council is conducting a public conversation in an attempt to decide its future tourist use. A decision in principle seems to have been reached to redevelop it.

We drove on along that magic stretch of coast. Work is still in progress to fully restore the parts of the Cook Highway damaged in the deluges that followed Cyclone Jasper in December last year. Just a couple of delays were involved.

Shading umbrellas at Four Mile Beach

Four Mile Beach has seen some improvements at its northern end since we were last in Port Douglas. A new amenities block with changing facilities has been completed. Two new casual dining establishments now offer food and drink. New ramps and stairs provide improved access to the beach. In addition, there is now an area of striped umbrellas providing shade from the sun over sun lounges. The beach is rather a windy spot so I am not sure how they get the umbrellas to stay in place.

We made our normal visit to Flagstaff Hill to view, and photograph, the town and beach. Then off in search of a parking spot near Macrossan Street so that we could find a place for lunch. We chose a street side eatery called the Iron Bar. It was a bar, substantially constructed of corrugated iron. We dined from large share taste seafood platter.

A new eating location at Four Mile Beach. The new bathing facilities are right next door.
Four Mile Beach from Flagstaff Hill Lookout
Macrossan Street near where we lunched

The drive back to Cairns was incident free, with a repeat of the road works stops on the way up, but with us facing the opposite direction.

Cairns Harbourside from Green Island Ferry

Friday was our last day in Cairns. We had booked a ferry trip to Green Island. It was over fifty years since we had last visited. Since then the Jetty has been extended, the underwater observatory had gone and a resort has been built.

Part of the public area at Green Island

It was not a brilliant day, with strong winds and drizzle periods. The sun was in hiding for most of the day, but it was still about 25C, and comfortable if you were sheltered from the direct wind. We established ourselves in the public area near to the resort reception. There were lots of youngsters about. The pool generated a continual cacophony of sound.

Buff-banded Rail. Green Island pigeons

The first time that I photographed a Buff-banded Rail, I thought that I had found something special. But at Green Island they are as common as Pigeons in a city park. They feed off tourist food scraps and are deliberately fed by some tourists, including us.

Green Island is a true coral cay. To make walking easier than ploughing through soft sand, extensive boardwalks have been built, including one that leads to the far south-east corner. Visitors go there to swim on calmer days or to kitesurf on days like we were experiencing. I walked there looking for birds that some claim to be quite profuse. But that must be on days with less wind. I found a few, but they were all in hiding from the wind. They included two Eastern Osprey hiding behind a chain-wire fence. They must be regularly fed, so don’t need to go fishing. Or perhaps it was too windy for them too.

This is where you get coffee at Green Island
Green Island Public Pool later in the day with only a few children
Another view of Green Island public area

With departure time near and rain squalls about, we made for the ferry. On the last unprotected stretch a gust of wind took my prised Tilley hat, which will now be on the floor of Davy Jones Locker. Pity! I will need to replace it as I had become quite attached to it. But obviously it was not attached to me quite well enough.

The swimming beach faces North, away from the prevailing south-easterlies
An Intermediate Egret sheltering from the wind
This Eastern Reef Egret looks like it is a bit cold

Back in Cairns the weather was fine. We were welcomed back to our parked car by the largest group of Bush-stone Curlews that I had ever seen. But my hands were too full of bits and pieces from the day out for me to take a photo.

My lost and lementad hat
Green Island and ferry jetty, from the ferry
A photo from the previous day of a Bush-stone Curlew

We returned to our unit via a laundromat. The washing had been accumulating.