Sydney 2014 – Day 12 – 28th January – Megalong Valley Plus

I have wondered for years what is in the Megalong Valley. The answer is – not much!

We started the day with a visit to the business district of Katoomba to collect mail and do some shopping. That done, we packed lunch and headed back to Blackheath, from where the road descends into the Megalong Valley.

The historic Explorers Tree

The historic Explorers Tree

On the way we made a call at a historic site known as the Explorers Tree. As the  photograph shows, the tree is now a stump, but it’s significance is that it was marked by explorers Lawson, Blaxland and Wentworth in their first crossing of the Blue Mountains. Obviously it needs some TLC.

Eight kilometres of sealed, narrow and winding two way road leads to the tiny town of Megalong and for a surprising distance beyond, given that it leads to a dead end.

Shady café in Megalong.

Shady café in Megalong.

The Megalong Valley is another area of former shale mining, but that was long ago and there are no obvious signs of it today. The area is mostly rural with a little tourist activity. There are a couple of horse trail riding operations and a surprisingly successful cafe/restaurant, judging by the number of laughing and chattering people seated at tables beneath shady trees. Through the town are

Shale mining memorabilia.

Shale mining memorabilia.

at least three free camp areas with toilets provided, which seem to be favoured by motor homes.

Back at the top of the mountain we turned left to visit Hargreaves Lookout and in so doing drove through the Shipley Plateau area that the tourist brochure claimed to be worth visiting for the orchards there. Obviously the material was written a long time ago and no one has bothered to update it. There is really nothing to see. Prominent signs lead to one apple orchard that clearly has been closed for years.

The Hydro Majestic Hotel at Medlow Bath from the Megalong Valley.

The Hydro Majestic Hotel at Medlow Bath from the Megalong Valley.

Viewing area at Echo Point.

Viewing area at Echo Point.

So, feeling that we had given the Blue Mountains a pretty good going over we came back to Echo Point to once again view the Three Sisters. We had one of the clearest views possible on what was a near perfect summer afternoon. And, unlike most other sisters that I know, they do not look a day older. On the way back to the van we took the short stroll

Classic view of the Three Sisters.

Classic view of the Three Sisters.

to Cliff Lookout where we had excellent views of the Skyway, Scenic Railway and the newer cable way that also runs to the valley floor. We also saw where Katoomba Creek plunges into the valley from a different view point and Ruth caught a glimpse of Katoomba Falls.

The Skyway car passed over on our walk.

The Skyway car passed over on our walk.

The complex at Scenic World

The complex at Scenic World

 

Where Katoomba Creek takes its final plunge.

Where Katoomba Creek takes its final plunge.

This visit to the Blue Mountains has been mainly about looking at iconic tourist sites. I would like to return for long enough to do some of the many walks, particularly those that run along cliff tops or descend into the valleys.

And where are the best mountain views? Govett’s Leap, without a doubt!

Sydney 2014 – Day 11 – 27th January – Beyond Katoomba

Another cold night bur no fog this morning – only cloud cover but higher cloud than yesterday. By mid-morning the cloud burned off leaving us with a clear sunny day.

The Court House at the Hartley Historic Village

The Court House at the Hartley Historic Village

The long since unlicensed Newnes Hotel, now a museum and kiosk.

The long since unlicensed Newnes Hotel, now a museum and kiosk.

We went further afield today. Travelling west we passed through the remaining Blue Mountain towns, down the steep Victoria Pass, made a brief stop at the Hartley Historic Village, passed through Lithgow and on to a small place called Newnes. Newnes is at the southern border of Wollemi National Park. It is a very popular camping place, particularly with 4WD owners as a river crossing is necessary to reach the main camping area.

The camping area is surrounded by sandstone topped mountains.

The camping area is surrounded by sandstone topped mountains.

Layout of the processing plant is shown on the information board.

Layout of the processing plant is shown on the information board.

But Newnes has historical significance. In 1906 the Commonwealth Oil Company commenced building a shale oil mine and refinery just down the Wolgan River from the site of the town which was built by the company and named after its Chairman. The product was transported to Sydney by rail over a purpose built railway that joined

Old photograph of the processing plant.

Old photograph of the processing plant.

the Government rail system between Lithgow and Bell. The line ran through difficult country and included two tunnels. The line has been out of commission for many years and the rails removed but one tunnel can be driven through on the way to the second that has become home to a glow worm colony.

Old rolling stock waits for restoring to its original condition.

Old rolling stock waits for restoring to its original condition.

The refinery was apparently quite sturdily built as substantial relics remain. To tour them requires about 2 hours walking over a path not designed for new knees. We started out but it soon became obvious that we would run out of time, so turned back to the car.

 

 

Gates by the road side announce the Wolgan Valley Resort & Spa.

Gates by the road side announce the Wolgan Valley Resort & Spa.

The Wolgan Valley was the centre of a controversy not long ago when a hospitality company from the Middle East was granted approval to build a rather lavish resort and spa primarily, it seemed, for their own nationals. Some locals and others were not happy with the arrangement and the matter raged on Sydney radio for a while. The resort was built and is operating but it can’t be seen from the road, which incidentally, is now sealed to about 200 metres past the front gate of the resort.

Looking north along the valley from the top of the cutting that descends into the southern end.

Looking north along the valley from the top of the cutting that descends into the southern end.

The valley is beautiful. It is narrow and follows the stream that flows through its centre. The mountains that form the valley rise steeply and are capped with sandstone cliffs that display most attractive colours. Apart from the national park at the lower end of the valley the remainder is farm country with cattle and sheep. Maybe a return visit with the caravan one day so there will be time to do the walk and soak up the history.

 

Wallerang Power Station is powered by local coal.

Wallerawang Power Station is powered by local coal.

 

Ruth on Clarence Station platform. This is part of the currently suspended tourist rail operation.

Ruth on Clarence Station platform. This is part of the currently suspended tourist rail operation.

We returned to Lithgow, pausing to photograph the Wallerawang power station. Lithgow is a coal town and is surrounded by coal mines. Instead of returning via the Victoria Pass we took the Chifley Road to Bell, stopping in to the currently dormant Zig Zag Railway. It is out of commission due to damage sustained during the Blue Mountains bush fires last October. We deviated from the

Hartley Vale from Mt York Lookout.

Hartley Vale from Mt York Lookout.

Darling Causeway that follows the railway between Bell and Mount Victoria to drop down into Hartley Vale, returning to the Great Western Highway at Little Hartley.

We spent the afternoon looking at the iconic lookouts and waterfalls of the western Blue Mountain Plateau. These included Mount York, Mount Piddington, Govett’s Leap and Govett’s Falls and Evans Lookout and drove out onto the Narrow Neck Plateau that divides the Jamison

Govetts Leap Falls and cliff face.

Govett’s Leap Falls and cliff face.

and Megalong Valleys. This last feature was a bit of a dead loss as, after experiencing easily the worst road on this trip we discovered that there is not much to see without embarking on long walks. Walks of various lengths were required to reach the lookout point from the various car parks.

View from Govetts Leap Lookout

View from Govett’s Leap Lookout

 

Another view from Govetts Leap Lookout.

Another view from Govett’s Leap Lookout.

 

So that was our day driving. After a bit of a rest in the sunshine by the van I went for a walk to look for the Katoomba Falls. We had tried to find them yesterday but had turned

The main fall at Katoomba Falls.

The main fall at Katoomba Falls.

back because of steep stairs. They are indeed at the bottom of steep and rather rough steps. The main falls are near the road, only about 300 metres from the caravan park. The Katoomba Creek then runs through a very pretty gorge and over a series of smaller falls and rapids until it plunges over a cliff into the Jamison Valley.

 

The final run of Katoomba Creek before it drops into the Jameson Valley.

The final run of Katoomba Creek before it drops into the Jameson Valley.

 

Sydney 2014 – Day 10 – 26th January – Katoomba

Our strategy for avoiding hot weather by staying in the mountains is working all too well. The minimum was 9C at Katoomba last night. We could hear moisture dripping during the night but could not hear rain, so guessed that there was a heavy fog. We were correct. A heavy fog had blanketed the entire area. It did not lift until after lunch and even then the valleys held large fog banks and the cloud base was sitting on top of the higher mountain ranges. With conditions so unsuitable for sightseeing during the morning we stayed in the van for the most part and gave the heater a work out. After lunch the conditions had improved so we set off to look around.

Top of the Leura Mall. The mall is on a fairly steep hillside.

Top of the Leura Mall. The mall is on a fairly steep hillside.

 

The caravan park is at Katoomba Falls and right near the Skyway and Scenic Railway. The best view of the valleys and cliffs is from the Cliff Drive that follows the top of the escarpment and takes in many of the iconic locations. We looked in at Leura Falls, Gordon Falls and Sublime Point and did a leisurely walk around Leura Mall. That, incidentally, is the name of the street that runs through the main shopping area, not some fancy title for a modern development.

Leura Mall. Not a spare car parking space in sight.

Leura Mall. Not a spare car parking space in sight.

Development rules are obviously strict as many old buildings remain and have been tastefully renovated and contain the boutiques, coffee shops, restaurants and household goods stores that you will find in most tourist shopping precincts.

We drove past Echo Point, the observation point for the Three Sisters, mainly because it looked as though no one else had driven past. On this public holiday it was a seething mass of humanity. Besides the “Sisters” looked to be obscured by fog.

Leura Falls viewed from above.

Leura Falls viewed from above.

Sightseeing in the Blue Mountains can be quite strenuous, as flights of steps or steep inclines need to be negotiated to reach lookouts, waterfalls and other features. So I have seen a bit more than Ruth, but I have taken plenty of photos so I can share.

One of the falls in the Leura Falls group of cascades.

One of the falls in the Leura Falls group of cascades.

A converted church in Leura Mall

A converted church in Leura Mall

 

Bottom of Leura Mall

Bottom end of Leura Mall

Gordon Falls viewed from Gordon Falls Lookout.

Gordon Falls viewed from Gordon Falls Lookout.

Sublime Point from Gordon Falls Lookout.

Sublime Point from Gordon Falls Lookout.

The rear view of the Three Sisters from Gordon Falls Lookout.

The rear view of the Three Sisters from Gordon Falls Lookout.

 

Jamison Valley and Clouds.

Jamison Valley and Clouds.

 

Katoomba in the mist from Sublime Point.

Katoomba in the mist from Sublime Point.

 

Attractive colours in the cliff face. Notes houses with superb views.

Attractive colours in the cliff face. Note houses with superb views.

 

View back to Gordon Falls Lookout.

View back to Gordon Falls Lookout.

Clouds remained at mountain top level all day.

Clouds remained at mountain top level all day.

 

Sydney 2014 – Day 9 – 25th January – Toukley to Katoomba

Today’s activity was the drive. For variety we followed the road through The Entrance to Gosford and then followed major highways for the rest of the way. The only bit of excitement was when I took a wrong on ramp in the western suburbs of Sydney and ended up with the sun on the wrong side of the car. But a quick exit and reorientation and we were headed in the right direction again.

Last time we travelled the road to Katoomba there was road works at many places. Most of the work is now finished with only one section still under construction, but after crossing the Nepean River it is up hill all the way , so was a slow journey.

It has been a quiet afternoon. Well, as quiet as a caravan park is when full of families for a long weekend and when it borders a cricket ground where there shouts and cheers whenever a wicket fell. We back onto the community kitchen so meal times are rather noisy. But we are quiet!

Ruth and I honeymooned here almost 52 years ago so there will be some nostalgia in the visit. Driving down the street today much is still the same as then but there is new development as well. When we were here all that time ago we did not have a car, so we now plan to visit some outlying places that we were not able to visit then.

Stand by for the story!

Sydney 2014 – Day 8 – 24th January – The Watagan Mountains

We had planned to take Judy and Alan with us on a drive into the Watagan Ranges for a picnic, but they had commitments that could not conveniently be changed, so we excused them and went by ourselves. We were following an established trek that included features of the Watagan National Park and surrounding state forests. This was another gravel road, and another opportunity to operate the Challenger in 4 wheel drive mode.

A roadside view through the trees

A roadside view through the trees

Our highest altitude during the day was around 550 metres so these mountains are dwarfed by those that we had visited over the last few days. The highlights of the trip were picnic and camping areas and lookouts. There are some areas of semi rain forest but the bush scenery was fairly ordinary. But on this last day before a long weekend the camping areas were filling up so it was easy to see the value of the area to residents of Sydney and Newcastle who are looking for an escape from city congestion.

There had been some rain so the dust was settled but had only produced a few wet spots. The road was in good condition with only a few washed out and corrugated sections. We crossed a number of ranges during the day so the drive was quite varied. As my beginnings were well and truly in the bush I love to return to it. I guess I am revisiting my roots to some extent. I think Ruth, brought up in the city, sometimes wonders what it is all about.

Boarding House Dam picnic area

Boarding House Dam picnic area

We stopped for lunch at Boarding House Dam picnic area. The facilities are set in a glen that could have been a small volcano crater. The stream was dammed many years ago to provide water for a boarding house that  accommodated timber cutters during early logging operations. We drove through regenerated and plantation areas not too far away.

The dam that gives the area its name

The small dam that gives the area its name

The view from Heaton's Lookout

The view from Heaton’s Lookout

The last feature of the day was Heaton’s Lookout that provides sweeping views over the coastal lakes of the Central Coast of NSW. Unfortunately there was a great deal of haze so the view was not all that good, but worth the drive.

Instead of following the trek back to the Sydney-Newcastle Highway we retraced our steps for few kilometres and drove down the mountain to Cessnock and Pokolbin to have a brief look

An impressive facility at Pokolbin

An impressive facility at Pokolbin

at the Hunter Valley vineyards. In the early years of our residency in Brisbane we often came through this area to avoid the congestion on inadequate roads. It was interesting to see the development and the money that has been spent on cellar door developments at some of the better known wineries.

About ready to pick

About ready to pick

Hungerford Hill's impressive cellar door

Hungerford Hill’s impressive cellar door

We paused in Cessnock for a cup of coffee before returning to the van along other familiar roads. We enjoyed a quiet evening but were awakened several times during the night by heavy rain. There would have been some very happy people as their parched gardens were watered by the persistent showers.