Far North Queensland 2024 – Days 7 & 8 – Port Douglas & Green Island

a typical part of Cairns Botanic Gardens

I don’t think that we have ever visited Cairns without also visiting Port Douglas. Oh wait! On our first ever trip to Cairns, a road trip from Melbourne, at Christmas, about 56 years ago, we hadn’t even heard of Port Douglas and neither had most other Melbournians. We hadn’t heard of Christopher Skase, either.

As Thursday was the only day without a fixed starting activity, I took the opportunity to walk to The Esplanade. Reports suggested that the beach and water side parklands was a great bird photography sight. But not that day. I arrived at about 7.30 am but it seemed that half of Cairns had beaten me there. Clearly it is a favourite aera for morning exercises and there were many exercising. But they weren’t doing it quietly. I took some photos, but mostly birds with which I am already familiar.

First of all, we visited the Cairns Botanic Gardens. Unsurprisingly, it is a tropical rain forest paradise. A day at least could be spent wandering around the paths and roads. Even longer if you include the visitor centre and its coffee shop. I limited myself to about half an hour, but it was time well spent.

Tropical flower in the Gardens
Botanic Gardens Visitor Centre including a cafe.

From the gardens we drove to Machins Beach to see the mouth of the Barron River. The banks of the stream and the beach seem to be popular fishing spots and a location for some quiet free camping. But I could sense those Crocodiles lurking just beneath the surface of the water. Much happier in our unit.

Barron River a little upstream from the mouth
Machins Beach near the Barron River mouth looking north
Double Island off Palm Cove Beach.

Palm Cove is one of our favourite places. We have fond memories of our brief stay there a couple of years ago. As we were passing, we called in for coffee and the views of the Coral Sea and Double Island. Double Island used to be home to a luxury resort. Cairns council is conducting a public conversation in an attempt to decide its future tourist use. A decision in principle seems to have been reached to redevelop it.

We drove on along that magic stretch of coast. Work is still in progress to fully restore the parts of the Cook Highway damaged in the deluges that followed Cyclone Jasper in December last year. Just a couple of delays were involved.

Shading umbrellas at Four Mile Beach

Four Mile Beach has seen some improvements at its northern end since we were last in Port Douglas. A new amenities block with changing facilities has been completed. Two new casual dining establishments now offer food and drink. New ramps and stairs provide improved access to the beach. In addition, there is now an area of striped umbrellas providing shade from the sun over sun lounges. The beach is rather a windy spot so I am not sure how they get the umbrellas to stay in place.

We made our normal visit to Flagstaff Hill to view, and photograph, the town and beach. Then off in search of a parking spot near Macrossan Street so that we could find a place for lunch. We chose a street side eatery called the Iron Bar. It was a bar, substantially constructed of corrugated iron. We dined from large share taste seafood platter.

A new eating location at Four Mile Beach. The new bathing facilities are right next door.
Four Mile Beach from Flagstaff Hill Lookout
Macrossan Street near where we lunched

The drive back to Cairns was incident free, with a repeat of the road works stops on the way up, but with us facing the opposite direction.

Cairns Harbourside from Green Island Ferry

Friday was our last day in Cairns. We had booked a ferry trip to Green Island. It was over fifty years since we had last visited. Since then the Jetty has been extended, the underwater observatory had gone and a resort has been built.

Part of the public area at Green Island

It was not a brilliant day, with strong winds and drizzle periods. The sun was in hiding for most of the day, but it was still about 25C, and comfortable if you were sheltered from the direct wind. We established ourselves in the public area near to the resort reception. There were lots of youngsters about. The pool generated a continual cacophony of sound.

Buff-banded Rail. Green Island pigeons

The first time that I photographed a Buff-banded Rail, I thought that I had found something special. But at Green Island they are as common as Pigeons in a city park. They feed off tourist food scraps and are deliberately fed by some tourists, including us.

Green Island is a true coral cay. To make walking easier than ploughing through soft sand, extensive boardwalks have been built, including one that leads to the far south-east corner. Visitors go there to swim on calmer days or to kitesurf on days like we were experiencing. I walked there looking for birds that some claim to be quite profuse. But that must be on days with less wind. I found a few, but they were all in hiding from the wind. They included two Eastern Osprey hiding behind a chain-wire fence. They must be regularly fed, so don’t need to go fishing. Or perhaps it was too windy for them too.

This is where you get coffee at Green Island
Green Island Public Pool later in the day with only a few children
Another view of Green Island public area

With departure time near and rain squalls about, we made for the ferry. On the last unprotected stretch a gust of wind took my prised Tilley hat, which will now be on the floor of Davy Jones Locker. Pity! I will need to replace it as I had become quite attached to it. But obviously it was not attached to me quite well enough.

The swimming beach faces North, away from the prevailing south-easterlies
An Intermediate Egret sheltering from the wind
This Eastern Reef Egret looks like it is a bit cold

Back in Cairns the weather was fine. We were welcomed back to our parked car by the largest group of Bush-stone Curlews that I had ever seen. But my hands were too full of bits and pieces from the day out for me to take a photo.

My lost and lementad hat
Green Island and ferry jetty, from the ferry
A photo from the previous day of a Bush-stone Curlew

We returned to our unit via a laundromat. The washing had been accumulating.

Far North Queensland – 2024 – Day 6 – Skyrail and Kuranda Scenic Railway

Ruth and I photographed by one of our Japanese fellow passengers

It was a big day, for both of us, but particularly for Ruth.

We were picked up from neat to our motel by the Skyrail shuttle bus and were driven directly to the Skyrail terminal at Smithfield, as we were last pick up. There were rain clouds around with a clear treat of rain, but it was holding off or the moment.

Smithfield homes, as we lifted off at Cairns Skyrail Station

We had taken care when booking to ensure that Ruth would be able to access the Skyrail gondolas and were assured that she could be accommodated. And accommodate her they did. The Skyrail gondolas can be stopped for short periods. The whole section of the system can be stopped if necessary. But slowing was all that was required. I folded Ruth’s walker and took it on board. Staff then helped Ruth to board and get her seated. There was even time for two more people to join our gondola.

The gondola ahead about to pass a support pylon

So, we were whisked away into the air and carried towards the top of the first lift, which is also the first stop. The cable car operation is divided into two separate sections. The first lifts the cars to the top of the range to Red Peak where gondolas turn and return to the start. The Western section lifts gondolas from Kuranda through Barron Falls to Red Peak.

Most passengers alight at both stations. At Red Peak it is compulsory, unless you want to return to the start. The rainforest walk attracts most passengers. It is a most pleasant walk on an even surface. The walk at Barron Falls provides good views of the entire length of the Falls and much of the gorge.

View back over Trinity Bay to Cape Grafton
Part of the Board Walk at Red Peak station
Descending towards Barron Falls

The boardwalk was very suitable for Ruth’s walker, as the grades were gentle and the pathway quite wide. Displays and signs help visitors to understand what they are seeing.

A Strangler Fig tree beside the boardwalk at Red Peak station

At Barron Falls, a staff member to whom we spoke, showed us video on his phone of the falls at full flow. It would be spectacular to see. By the time that we arrived, high flows of a week or two earlier had reduced, but there was still a good volume of water flowing over the drop.

It is very peaceful gliding above the tree canopy. Breaks in the vegetation give glimpses of the under story, as do the walks at the stops. As you top Red Peak, the ranges of the Great Divide roll away into the distance and you look directly into Barron Gorge.

There is plenty of warning before the final station. The public address system asks you to look up so that a camera can take your photo while you are still in the gondola. For about $30 you can buy a copy of the photo. We passed on that.

When booking, we enquired about transport to the town, as that’s where all the services are, including lunch. They weren’t very clear, but we suspected that it would be necessary to walk. Our suspicions were confirmed by the absence of obvious modes of transport. So, we set off on foot with the other arrivals.

Barron Gorge and the hydro-power station, driven by water from a dam at the top of the Barron Gorge
The view into the Barron Gorge from Skyrail
Passengers on the short walk to the falls viewing point
Part of Barron Falls

The walk was about 500 metres I guess, and moderately steep, but we made it with a couple of rest stops. The first cafe that we saw got our business. That was my first coffee for the day, so it was most welcome. Rested, we walked a bit of the town and then took the path back down to the Kuranda Scenic Railway station which is adjacent to the Sky Rail station. We were there in plenty of time to rest up for the train journey.

A Banyan tree on the walk to Kuranda township
The Kuranda Hotel. Too many steps for suitable lunch venu

Last time we did the SkyRail and train experience we had seats to the left of the train when facing forward. That put other passenger heads between us and the view. The passenger in the window seat leaned out of the window most of the way taking photos so we saw little. This time we had a row of four seats to ourselves, so visibility was not a problem. Unfortunately, as the train stopped at Barron Falls Station, the rain started to fall so the photographic opportunities were quickly abandoned. The rain continued, so no one hung out of the windows taking photos.

The leading engine on our train
Carriages waiting for passengers
Barron Falls from the railway station

Towards the bottom of the steep part of climb the railway passes Stoney Creek Falls and the bridge over Stoney Creek. This bridge is the most outstanding bridge on the line. The falls can be seen to the west of the line, towering above the train and cascading for tens of metres into a waterhole. Shortly after this point the train negotiates Horseshoe Bend, a very tight turn in railway terms. Passengers can look back or forward, depending where they are sitting on the train, and see the opposite end of the train preceding or following them. Negotiating the turn is done at a very slow pace, with much screeching of wheels on steel rails.

Stoney Creek Falls – View 1
Stoney Creek Falls – View 2
The rear of our train, partly obscured by the window frame

The sun was shining again by the time we reached Cairns. I walked back to our motel to collect the car, returned to the station to collect Ruth. Then back up fourteen steps.

An Orchid beside our small rear balcony in Cairns