Drizzle from the previous day had become overnight rain but had cleared by morning, leaving small puddles in the depressions in the paths and car park. We packed what we needed for the next two days and loaded the car. Ruth made her way down fourteen steps for the last time. We were happy with Cairns City Palms as a base and would return. But to a ground floor room next time.
The car was left parked in the secure parking area beneath the Shangri-La Hotel. We were left with a short walk to Fitzroy Island ferry reception. Then a longer walk to the ferry, as it was berthed far out on the longest wharf.
A P&O cruise ship was in Cairns harbour. We could not see its name but it was probably Pacific Encounter. Cruise ships moor really close to the city. Just a short walk to all that Cairns city has to offer.
There are almost always clouds around in tropical areas but they were mostly confined to the mountains. We enjoyed both a sunny and smooth crossing to the island. Fitzroy Island is just south of Cape Grafton, the peninsula south of Trinity Bay. The ferry stayed close to the shore. The only point of interest on the way is the large Indigenous settlement of Yarrabah. Green Island was visible in the hazey distance to starboard (left).
We were last off the ferry at Fitzroy Island as Ruth needed assistance on the gangway. That put us on the tail end of the queue at reception. The wait meant that our room was ready for us to occupy, which we immediately did.
Fitzroy Island Resort stretches along much of the natural bay that it faces. The accommodation wing has three floors but has lifts. We were on the ground floor in a studio room, without a water view, but the were plenty of places for us to sit with water views, sip drinks and talk to fellow guests.
Facilities include all those that you would expect on a tropical island. One oddity is that the restaurant serves only breakfast and dinner but not lunch. At lunch time the dining room is used for day visitors on cruises that include meals.
Other ferry operators use Fitzroy Island for day cruises. Some drop their passengers and return later while others anchor off the beach for the period of the visit. Most visitors swim, sun bake, snorkel or dive.
Fitzroy Island “boasts” a nude beach, signposted on the island as the “Nudey Beach”. It is a walk of about 500 metres over a rocky path. The only bathers that we sighted on that beach were clothed. But “clothed” is a relative term on most beaches these days.
Guests and day visitors on uncatered trips have meals and drinks at Foxy’s Bar, located about 200 meters from the hotel. That is not a long walk, but the surface of the path is loose gravel, which made it a bit of a challenge for Ruth’s walker. But we managed.
We had realised before booking that food costs on an island with “captive” guests would be expensive and we weren’t wrong. Breakfast was $35 each and a two course evening meal was $66, either starter and main or main and desert. I think it was $86 for three courses. But the food was of good quality. At dinner we both had a starter of grilled prawns and main of roast duck breast. Quite delicious. Breakfast was buffet, and a well stocked buffet at that.
We used Foxy’s Bar for dinner the second night and for lunch on our full day. Prices were lower, as most of Foxy’s Bar clients are day visitors who don’t have to eat main meals there. Drink prices were similar to mainland prices.
One of my reasons to return after our day visit a couple of years ago, was to do the walk to the lighthouse, which was reported to give good views of the island and adjacent coast. My walks guide book described it as a “moderate” walk along the old concrete road that was used to service the lighthouse in its manned operating days. The light now operates automatically, as they do in most lighthouses there days.
The track was “moderate” in the same way as you experience “moderate” temperatures with one foot in the fire and the other in a bucket of ice. The first section is along the strip behind the beach. It is quite flat where it passes staff accommodation, the Cairns Turtle Rescue building and managers residence. Then the twin concrete wheel tracks started to climbed the ridge at what looked to me like a 45-degree angle.
I persevered for an elevation gain of about 100 metres and decided to give it away. There was about another kilometre and a half to go and then a couple of kilometres back. The return downhill most of the way could be worse. A young couple, on their way back, were running down the slope. Oh, for those days again! My knees are the original set and are almost eighty five years old.
I made my way back down to level country then made my way to the beach and photographed my way back to the hotel. I realised on this visit that the lighthouse can be seen from the ferry when it is a bit off shore. It is quite elevated.
Unwilling to fork out another $70 for two breakfasts, we purchased two muffins from the small island store which sufficed when supplemented by coffee from the room supplies. Foxy’s Bar does not open until 10.00 am by which time we were on the water on our way back to Cairns.
Back in Cairns, we paid the price to liberate our car and headed out to Smithfield, at the bottom of the climb to Kuranda and inland, where we enjoyed brunch before we commenced the climb up the range, heading to Mareeba.
