Far North Queensland – 2024- Days 14 to 16 – Airlie Beach to Home

We woke early on Thursday morning, as daylight flooded into our bedroom.  I arose to greet the morning and to photograph the sunrise. Out on the horizon was an inbound cruise ship, sister ship to the boat in port yesterday.

As sunrises go, this one’s a bit disanointing

There was little cloud, so no early indication of where the sun would rise. I waited well beyond the published time of sunrise and then realised that old Sol was coming up right behind the highest mountain peak opposite to Airlie Beach. So, there was no brilliantly coloured sunrise to photograph.

Our view towards the ocean with the
cruise day markets in the open space

In the open area between the town and Port of Airlie, a market was taking shape. I assume that it is there for the additional visitors that the cruise ships bring to town. Even with the extra numbers, the town did not seem all that busy. But I guess many of the day visitors were doing things among the islands or on the reef.

Coffee was on offer here but there was no
seating or view

Around mid-morning we went out looking for coffee and headed towards Cannonvale, hoping for a water view. The only place that fitted our specifications was crowded. I took a walk along the Bicentennial Walking Track to build my days step count. We then went back to the town area of Airlie Beach where we achieved our coffee location objectives.

A small residential enclave at Cannonvale
Part of the Bicentennial waterside walking track
Marina Shores apartments neat the Airlie Beach boat harbour
Our eventual coffee venu in Airlie Beach

The man who took our coffee order asked if we were off the cruise ship. That lead to a discussion during which he told us that he was a retired charter skipper, so we talked Whitsunday Islands and cruising for a few minutes. As a retired recreational sailor myself and having chartered a catamaran in the Whitsundays with a group, this was something of a reminiscence, bringing back pleasant memories.

Our Airlie Beach stop was for two nights, for a bit of a break. We did not have a fixed program. We looked around at familiar sights, then returned to our unit to enjoy the view, lunch and a sleep, in that order.

Hillside residential has views that bring visitors back
A House Sparrow briefly alighted on our balcony rail
Tongue-in-Cheek sign at the Airlie pool
Ruth seated in part of the bar dining area at Northerlies Bar

Suitably rested, we drove out through Cannonvale to Woodwark to check out Northerlies, a large pub and bistro that provides magnificent views back to Airlie Beach. Too soon to eat again, we made do with one drink and returned to our unit for another restful evening.

Airlie Beach from Northerlies at Cannonvale

There had been speculation about morning fog at Cannonvale on the evening news. Airlie was clear and almost cloudless as we checked out, but heavy banks of fog blanketed most of Cannonvale but only effected the road in a couple of places.

A mostly deserted Kinka Beach

Yeppoon, on the coast near Rockhampton, was our destination for the day. There is a good rest stop at Waverley Creek, north of Marlborough, that we have used for years. Once again, we stopped there for lunch. A fellow traveller stopped by to tell us of an explosion that had closed the highway south of Gladstone. We were not going that far on this day, so we paid little attention and continued on to Yeppoon and then Kinka Beach for the night.

A small sample of the Magpie Geese in the
swamp at Emu Park

After booking in to our motel, we drove to nearby Emu Park for supplies. I noticed some Magpie Geese beside the road on the way in. On our return we stopped to have a closer look, The geese had taken over a large area of swamp with heads poking out of the reeds. Hundreds of them.

Later, on the evening news, we heard all about the explosion and learned that the highway would be closed for several days. The explosion had been caused by a double road train carrying a full load of Ammonium Nitrate, the explosive used in the coal mines inland from the coast. The explosive had become mixed with diesel from the prime mover and did exactly what it was designed to do. BOOM.

On Saturday morning, when we reached South Rockhampton, signs confirmed Highway closure near Bororen, south of Gladstone. A section of two-lane highway had been demolished. No traffic could pass.

We considered back roads to take us to our next accommodation at Bargara, on the coast near Bundaberg. Finally, we decided to make directly for home. Our new route led through Mount Morgan, Biloela, Monto and Mundubbera, returning to the Bruce highway at Gympie, less than 150 km from home.

Swan and Cygnets at Lake Alford, Gympie

Weekend traffic meant fewer large trucks. The section of the road between Dululu and Biloela was undergoing extensive repairs necessitated by recent high rainfall. We were stopped at red lights for roadwork probably between fifteen and twenty times. Despite such interruptions we were making good time. We stopped at Biloela for a refuelling break for the car and ourselves and for a late lunch break at the road junction at Ban Ban Springs, east of Gayndah.

A flock of Plumed Whistling Ducks

Then, at Gympie, we took a final break at Lake Alford, the rest area just south of the town. The lake is a water bird sanctuary. I fitted the birding lens to my camera and took a stroll. The sun was about to set and the birds were active as they so often are at the end of the day. The result was some good bird photos and shots of the setting sun and afterglow, for good measure.

It was an easy run from there on divided highway all the way to our turn from the highway at Burpengary.

Dusk at Lake Alford, Gympie

Now in our mid-eighties and with Ruth’s mobility issues we have handled this trip quite well, we think. Well enough to have our next trip planned. Late in October we intend to go south again, to meet relatives and see more of this wonderful country in which we live.

Far North Queensland – 2024 – Days 13 to 15 – Atherton to Airlie Beach

Intermediate Egret in Breeding Plumage

Our original plan for our return had been a short drive to Atherton and then to return to Redcliffe via the inland route, through Charters Towers, Emerald, Roma and then home. But forecasts were predicting that burst of warmer weather towards the end of August. When we realised that the day we were to arrive in Roma the temperature was predicted to be 37C we recast our plans. We had come north looking for warmth, not heat.

All the ducks in a row. Pacific Black Ducks in this case

We were not able to cancel our Atherton motel booking so left it in place. It is not that much further to go south from Cairns via the Palmerston Highway to Innisfail, so that is what we did. Our new plans included a night at Townsville, two at Airlie Beach and then one each at Yeppoon and Bargara.

From our brunch break at Smithfield, we drove directly to Mareeba, stopping only at road works. That meant several stops. Our one stop in Mareeba was at Coffee Works where we enjoyed an ice-cream and acquired a bottle of their own locally made chocolate liquor. It is among our daughter-in-law’s favourite tipples, so makes a good present. This time for her birthday.

Before going to our Atherton accommodation, we drove to the south of the town, to Hastie’s Lagoon, a water bird sanctuary. The area around the lagoon is really a national park. It boasts an impressive two-level bird hide. But Atherton birds are every bit as smart as birds in other places and were mostly sitting or floating just beyond the the extreme range of my longest lens.

North Johnson River below where it emerges from the mountains

Next day, Tuesday, we had an uneventful trip to Townsville with breaks to view the one place where the North Johnson River Innisfail, coffee at North Innisfail and the Hinchinbrook lookout. We stopped for lunch at Ingham before heading to our Townsville accommodation, one block back from The Strand. We had views of The Strand area and out to Magnetic Island.

Madison Seabreeze Hotel, our Townsville accommodation
Smoke driftinf from Palm Island
The Townsville Strand Pier

I took a stroll to The Strand and did my daily walk, in company with some of Townsville’s early evening walkers. I stopped to take photos while most other walkers just walked. We were all enjoying a pleasant evening.

Promanading Towsnsvilllians
Castle Hill from our hotel driveway
The Strand from our balcony
Cloud cover over Magnetic Island
Townsville City & Port

Wednesday dawned with total cloud cover and a ground mist. As we were packing, a light shower drifted in from the ocean temporarily obscuring Castle Hill. As the lookout at the top of that huge pile of rocks was our first objective for the day, we watched with mild anxiety, but good luck prevailed. By the time the we checked out and set off the rain had cleared and some lighter areas of cloud were starting to show.

North Ward and the northern end of The Strand

The summit of Castle Hill was quite clear and reasonable for visibility and photos, although there was still rain falling to the west. The overnight rain had extinguished a large grass fire on Palm Island that had been sending huge clouds of smoke over the area north of Townsville and if still burning would have made photography problematical.

Traffic on the Bruce Highway was the heaviest that we had experienced south of Townsville, with constant traffic going north. But we still made good time. We made ourselves a cup of coffee at Brandon, just north of Ayr. South of Home Hill we drove the steep road to the picnic area at the summit of Mount Inkerman.

The mouth of the Burdekin River from Mount Inkerman

Last time that we made that drive we had to leave the caravan at the bottom beside the road. Drought prevailed and everything was brown and burned. This time greenery stretched to the horizon inland and to the Coral Sea to the east.

Departing cruise ship

We called at Bowen for lunch and made it to our unit at Whitsunday Terraces at Airlie Beach by mid-afternoon.

Sunset over the hills behind Airlie Beach

We had booked to ensure a view, and while our accommodation was not as elevated as on our previous visit, we still had great views of the town, Whitsunday Passage and the many boats at anchor outside of the harbour. Beyond the boats was a P&O cruise liner, at anchor waiting for the return of day tripping passengers. With not too much daylight left passengers were soon boarded and the ship weighed anchor and commenced its overnight cruise, disappearing from view to the north west.

The sunset was a great display of colour. I pleasing end to the day.

Interrupted Journey – North Queensland 2022 – Part 2

Part 2 – North to Port Douglas via The Atherton Tablelands

Note: A video link appears at the bottom of this blog post.

Coral Princess lying off Airlie Beach.

When you have a view like we did at Airlie Beach, the first thing that you do when you get up of a morning is open the blinds. We opened our blinds on Sunday morning and there in the middle of our view was the Coral Princes, in port for a visit. Our friends Jim and Frances Weir were on board, but we were gone by the time that they come ashore.

Sunday was one of making distance up the coast. Our Sunday night overnight stop was at Innisfail.   The sun shone on us all day. We struck some low-lying fog both on land and over the bay as we approached Bowen, making slower progress than we had hoped as we coped with the long slow kilometres of roadworks. Almost the entire length of road from where we entered the highway just north of Proserpine to Bowen, was limited to 60 and 40 kph with a few areas of 80 kph.

Balgal Beach. The view goes all the way to Magnetic Island and Townsville.

The run for the rest of the distance to Innisfail was much better, but still with a lot of areas of road works. We bypassed Townsville on the convenient ring road, as you do now, but called in a Balgal Beach. near Rollingstone. We knew where we could get near the beach for lunch, from previous visits.

Fisherman’s Landing at Balgal Beach. The restaurant overlooks the jetty where fishing boats dock.
The mountains northwest of Innisfail

We had a quiet night in Innisfail. The motel was right in town but quiet. All we wanted was somewhere to eat and sleep.

A cap of cloud was sitting on the top of that mass of mountains to our north as we left Innisfail. The mountain ranges inland from the coast are home to Queensland’s two highest mountains, Bartle Frere at 1,611 metres and Bellenden Ker which reaches a height of 1,593. At those heights they and the surrounding ranges rise well above the Atherton Tablelands, to which they provide a backdrop to the east.

The drive from Innisfail ascends some steep grades but on a good road. When you reach the edge of the Tableland the height gain from the coast is obvious. The first town is Millaa Millaa, but first you will see signs that point to a drive that leads you past four waterfalls, before returning you to the main road. We have done this drive before but did it again before stopping for coffee at the park in the main street. The town has a couple of good café/coffee shops as well.

Zillie Falls on the Falls Circuit near Millaa Millaa.
Millaa Millaa Falls also in the Falls Circuit.
The mountain ranges viewed from Millaa Millaa Lookout.

 We then crossed to Herberton to look at the tin mining museum. Soon after you leave the town of Millaa Millaa, you reach a steep ascent. Just before the summit, a left-hand turn takes you to a lookout which, unsurprisingly is named Millaa Millaa Lookout. Equally predictably the lookout provides fine views back over Millaa Millaa and the ranges nearer to the coast. We were greeted on our arrival by some domestic hens.

Mining machinery and buildings at Herberton Mining Museum.

There is much to see at the Herberton Museum, particularly for those with an interest in old machinery and historic mines. You could spend quite some time there if that were the direction in which your interests lay.

Malanda Falls is located in parkland near the town.

We then turned back to the east to Malanda. We wanted to lunch at Gallo Dairyland but research had shown them to be a Wednesday to Sunday operation, which seems to be quite common in areas that are within an easy weekend drive of major population centres.

Malanda Café, our lunch location.

So, after visiting Malanda Falls we lunched at a café in town before making a return visit to Lake Eacham, where some hardy souls were swimming and sun baking. It is a beautiful location and wasn’t all that cold but not my idea of swimming weather.

Lake Eacham with bathers.
Reflections in Lake Eacham.
We passed through the attractive town of Yungaburra on our way to Tinaroo Dam.
Patient Cattle Egrets waiting for the cane harvest to move on.

We had seen a large flock of Cattle Egrets (the little white Egrets that are often found where cattle are grazing) back nearer to Innisfail. They were waiting for a cane farmer to finish harvesting a field. Some were near to the road, but all took off and flew to the top of a hill overlooking the cane fields when we stopped. Newly cut cane must produce good eating grounds for them. We saw the same phenomenon at a couple more cane harvesting sites the following day, but other harvest sites had no birds at all.

To complete the day, we drove to Tinaroo Dam, where operators were discharging quantities of water, no doubt to the delight of tourists who see it flowing down the Baron Falls as they look down from the Kuranda train or the cable Skyway. There is plenty more where that is coming from. The dam is near to full.

Rather spectacular water discharge from Lake Tinaroo.
Tinaroo Dam
Agricultural land, irrigated by water from Lake Tinaroo.

We then drove on to Atherton and checked into our motel. It was a shorter and easier day. We travelled just over 200 km. Yesterday was a little over 600 km.

We departed Atherton on the morning of Tuesday 16th August, heading for Mareeba initially but with Port Douglas as our end-of-day goal. We turned east at Mareeba to drive to Emerald Falls. The facilities at the car park suggest that it is quite popular with visitors.

The top section of Emerald Falls.
The memorial to Luke McDonald who lost his life in the waters of Emerald Creek
Emerald Creek below the falls and series of rapids.

The walk to the falls is a little under a kilometre one way and quite easy until the last couple of hundred metres, when a series of well-built stone steps lead to the lookout and a rougher path to the foot of the falls. Visitors are reminded of the perils of mountain streams by a memorial, built by the side of the track, to a young man who perished in the stream.  Being conscious that we were there on our own and that I am not as young as I once was, I gave the walk away when the top of the falls were in sight. Thy are partly obscured by vegetation. But a great spot for a picnic and walk.

Magpie Geese near Mount Molloy on the Mulligan Highway.

We returned to Mareeba to revisit Coffee Works, a local success story, for morning coffee, before continuing north on the Mulligan Highway. We had intended to call into the nature reserve at Lake Mitchell, but the gate was closed, and the track did not look very inviting. We drove on. The highway runs beside a wetlands area that is part of the dam. There we found a Great Eastern Egret and a flock of Magpie Geese, both feeding in the pools. There was also a Pelican, but out of camera range.

View north east from the highway above Mosman.
The coast towards Daintree National Park
Daintree River ferry that provides the road link to Cape Tribulation.

We passed through Mount Molloy and took the right hand turn towards the coast and Mossman. There are two lookouts as the road begins its decline to the coast. Both give excellent views of Mossman and the coast to the Daintree River and to the ranges of the national park. We lunched at Daintree Village and photographed some Straw-necked Ibis in the park, before driving down to the Daintree River ferry. The crocodile tours along the Daintree River were doing a great trade, boosted by visitors from Coral Princess.

Crocodile viewing cruises on the Daintree River.
Coral Princess awaiting its passengers.

As we approached Port Douglas, we could see the Coral Princess anchored off the port. We called our passenger friends, but they were still on a day tour near Daintree. They are probably thankful that they missed us as I, at least, was incubating Covid at the time.

A view south from Flagstaff Hill at Port Douglas.

We had two nights at the Ramada Resort at Port Douglas. Since we had been through the area a number of times on previous trips we had decided on a quiet day. We checked out Four Mile Beach and spent time in the town area, We had visited the famous Flagstaff Hill Lookout, with its views along the beach to Cairns, the previous afternoon. We finished the day with room service dinner, a bit later than planned because the hotel lost our order.

We made a pre-breakfast start from Port Douglas next morning, as we had a 400+ km drive to catch the ferry at Townsville, to cross to Magnetic Island. We breakfasted at North Cairns and continued south. We diverted at Cardwell into the cyclone damaged Hinchinbrook Resort. There we found that most houses seem to have been repaired and reoccupied, but the marina, which was the centrepiece of the resort, remains in ruins, so there is no real resort anymore. But I did spy a pair of Bush Stone-curlews in the shade of a shrub on the rather broad media strip and got some photos. I had not previously photographed this bird. So, another “lifer” on my list.

Bush Stone-curlews at Hinchinbrook Resort at Cardwell.

I wasn’t feeling particularly well from the start of the day, so before we joined the queue for the Magnetic Island vehicle ferry, I decided to do a test for Covid-19. I returned a positive test so that was effectively the end of this trip.

Getting home was not a great amount of fun but with a highlight. We reached Proserpine at dusk and as the sun set, we were enveloped in a radiance of colour that reached across the sky from East to West and in front of us to behind us as well. The colour was a golden purple that faded as night fell. I was too intent on getting home to stop for a photo, but I now regret not doing so. But I do wonder if the camera would have done the colours justice.

The rest of the trip was to have taken us not only to Magnetic Island but then to Mackay and through the coal fields of the Bowen Basin to Emerald, Longreach and Winton. We are hopeful of completing the trip around the end of September.

Cape York Adventure – Days 1 to 6

We have just about reached the end of day 6 of our trip as I  write this, sitting out beside the van in the Big Crystal Creek Camping Area in the Paluma National Park, about 60 km north of Townsville. We would have peace and tranquility if the people in the van near us were not playing rock music. But it’s not heavy rock.

The original plan was to take four days to Airlie Beach, travelling  via the inland route to Rockhampton and then the Bruce to Proserpine, but having lost the first day with unexpected things needing to be done to the van, we decided to do the Bruce Highway all the way and in three days instead of four.

The most striking feature of the drive was the number of vans coming south. We did a couple of counts. For much of the time we were meeting vans and motor homes at a rate of better than one a minute. It seems that most southerners coming north, travel through inland Queensland before turning towards the coast for the trip home. For this reason there were few vans travelling in our direction on the Bruce Highway.

St Lawrence offers free camping to travelers - a donation is requested

St Lawrence offers free camping to travelers – a donation is requested

We reached Miriam Vale on the first day and St Lawrence the second, arriving at Airlie Beach at the end of the third day. At St Lawrence the council has provided an extensive over night camping area, supported by donations from
users. As well as extensive standing areas

The old St Lawrence Shire Offices

The old St Lawrence Shire Offices

there is a modern amenities block with flush toilets and coin-in-the-slot showers. We drove into town before we left. The Post Office is the only retail business and the street was as quiet as Dodge City at high noon. St Lawrence was one of the first towns settled on the coast of Queensland.

We had come to Airlie Beach to do a cruise to Whitehaven Beach, as we had decided to spend a Red Balloon voucher that the family had given me for my birthday, on the cruise. And Airlie is on the way to Cape York anyway. And who needs an excuse to go there?

Units on the hill at Airlie Beach in the morning sunlight

Units on the hill at Airlie Beach in the morning sunlight

An early start was required. Out of bed at  5.00 am  and at the Cruise Whitsunday terminal at 6.10. Heavy cloud greeted us as day broke, but by the time we boarded the “Orca”, a sea going catamaran, the cloud had burned off to produce a clear sky that smiled on us all day.

Arrival of the ferry at Daydream Island

Arrival of the ferry at Daydream Island

Cruise Whitsunday run the ferry service that connects the island resorts. The tours are run in conjunction with the passenger transfer service. The first call was Daydream Island to exchange passengers and then off for the 45 minute run to Hamilton Island. We stayed on board for both of these ports.

Boats in Hamilton Island harbour

Boats in Hamilton Island harbour

Then we were on our way to the main event. To reach Whitehaven Beach the boat passed to the north of Hamilton Island and then powered across relatively open sea to Solway Passage, the gap between the islands that leads to the Beach. There was reasonable swell

Hamilton Island High Rise from the east

Hamilton Island High Rise from the east

running, so the boat was moving around and spray was billowing from the bow. The kids on board loved it. And so did this big kid. The pure joy of a floor under my feet that moved with the sea.

When we reached our destination the boat nosed

passengers disembarking at Whitehaven Beach

passengers disembarking at Whitehaven Beach

into the beach and we all disembarked via an extending ramp, along with some basic supplies so that we wouldn’t perish during the 2 hours that we were ashore. Our fellow passengers spread out on the huge beach. Some swam, others sun baked and others walked. Kids

Beautiful Hhitehaven Beach is 98.5% silicia

Beautiful Whitehaven Beach is 98.5% silica

built sand castles. One Dad buried his daughter and turned her into a mermaid. We walked and then sat in the shade, fortified by a cold drink and a Mars Bar.

Back on board, the “Orca” headed north to make a complete circuit of Whitsunday Island as we returned to Daydream Island where we changed ferries for our return to Airlie Beach.

 

The one and only Chevy Corvette

The one and only Chevy Corvette

The Whitsunday Reef Festival was on this weekend so we walked along the main street of Airlie to take a look. Most activity is at night ,which befits a place like Airlie, but there was a brilliant display of restored classic cars, with a couple of vintage models as well. Oh, those Chevy Corvettes. Wow! There was also a very loud rock band. And I mean LOUD.

A bit of grocery shopping and then back to camp. A most enjoyable day!

The tranquil waters of Crystal Creek with smoke from a mountain fire in the background

The tranquil waters of Crystal Creek with smoke from a mountain fire in the background

Today we have travelled from Airlie Beach, a distance of about 360 km. Some  cloud around this morning but a mostly clear afternoon. Very pleasant driving.

This camp site is on Big Crystal Creek which has a large rock pool, currently full of running water. And you have guessed it. The water is crystal clear. It is in great demand for swimming and had a real workout that day, we have been told.