Far North Queensland – 2024 – Days 13 to 15 – Atherton to Airlie Beach

Intermediate Egret in Breeding Plumage

Our original plan for our return had been a short drive to Atherton and then to return to Redcliffe via the inland route, through Charters Towers, Emerald, Roma and then home. But forecasts were predicting that burst of warmer weather towards the end of August. When we realised that the day we were to arrive in Roma the temperature was predicted to be 37C we recast our plans. We had come north looking for warmth, not heat.

All the ducks in a row. Pacific Black Ducks in this case

We were not able to cancel our Atherton motel booking so left it in place. It is not that much further to go south from Cairns via the Palmerston Highway to Innisfail, so that is what we did. Our new plans included a night at Townsville, two at Airlie Beach and then one each at Yeppoon and Bargara.

From our brunch break at Smithfield, we drove directly to Mareeba, stopping only at road works. That meant several stops. Our one stop in Mareeba was at Coffee Works where we enjoyed an ice-cream and acquired a bottle of their own locally made chocolate liquor. It is among our daughter-in-law’s favourite tipples, so makes a good present. This time for her birthday.

Before going to our Atherton accommodation, we drove to the south of the town, to Hastie’s Lagoon, a water bird sanctuary. The area around the lagoon is really a national park. It boasts an impressive two-level bird hide. But Atherton birds are every bit as smart as birds in other places and were mostly sitting or floating just beyond the the extreme range of my longest lens.

North Johnson River below where it emerges from the mountains

Next day, Tuesday, we had an uneventful trip to Townsville with breaks to view the one place where the North Johnson River Innisfail, coffee at North Innisfail and the Hinchinbrook lookout. We stopped for lunch at Ingham before heading to our Townsville accommodation, one block back from The Strand. We had views of The Strand area and out to Magnetic Island.

Madison Seabreeze Hotel, our Townsville accommodation
Smoke driftinf from Palm Island
The Townsville Strand Pier

I took a stroll to The Strand and did my daily walk, in company with some of Townsville’s early evening walkers. I stopped to take photos while most other walkers just walked. We were all enjoying a pleasant evening.

Promanading Towsnsvilllians
Castle Hill from our hotel driveway
The Strand from our balcony
Cloud cover over Magnetic Island
Townsville City & Port

Wednesday dawned with total cloud cover and a ground mist. As we were packing, a light shower drifted in from the ocean temporarily obscuring Castle Hill. As the lookout at the top of that huge pile of rocks was our first objective for the day, we watched with mild anxiety, but good luck prevailed. By the time the we checked out and set off the rain had cleared and some lighter areas of cloud were starting to show.

North Ward and the northern end of The Strand

The summit of Castle Hill was quite clear and reasonable for visibility and photos, although there was still rain falling to the west. The overnight rain had extinguished a large grass fire on Palm Island that had been sending huge clouds of smoke over the area north of Townsville and if still burning would have made photography problematical.

Traffic on the Bruce Highway was the heaviest that we had experienced south of Townsville, with constant traffic going north. But we still made good time. We made ourselves a cup of coffee at Brandon, just north of Ayr. South of Home Hill we drove the steep road to the picnic area at the summit of Mount Inkerman.

The mouth of the Burdekin River from Mount Inkerman

Last time that we made that drive we had to leave the caravan at the bottom beside the road. Drought prevailed and everything was brown and burned. This time greenery stretched to the horizon inland and to the Coral Sea to the east.

Departing cruise ship

We called at Bowen for lunch and made it to our unit at Whitsunday Terraces at Airlie Beach by mid-afternoon.

Sunset over the hills behind Airlie Beach

We had booked to ensure a view, and while our accommodation was not as elevated as on our previous visit, we still had great views of the town, Whitsunday Passage and the many boats at anchor outside of the harbour. Beyond the boats was a P&O cruise liner, at anchor waiting for the return of day tripping passengers. With not too much daylight left passengers were soon boarded and the ship weighed anchor and commenced its overnight cruise, disappearing from view to the north west.

The sunset was a great display of colour. I pleasing end to the day.

Far North Queensland 2024 – Days 3 to 5 – Rockhampton to Cairns.

Area near the river and CBD in Rockhampton

In the days before we set off for Far North Queensland, my Facebook news feed had regularly thrown up tourism advertisements from Rockhampton tourist authorities promoting the magnificent views available from the lookout at Mount Archer and a tree top walk on the same mountain top. That all sounded good, so after a short drive along the banks of the Fitzroy River on the South side, we crossed the river and took the road to Mount Archer.

Much of the mountain is a national park, the boundaries of which commence at the bottom of the hill. Like most national parks the roads have a 40-kph speed limit. We were immediately behind a tourist bus which was climbing the mountain at 20-kph. The road is very winding but after a while the bus driver signalled us past and we were able to return to the speed limit.

A limited view of the Fitzroy River from Mount Archer
Rockhampton from the neighbouring residential area
Parkland by the river near Rockhampton CBD

We reached the summit, but what a disappointment! When the lookout was first built the views probably were spectacular. But it seems that the influence of Green councillors has precluded trimming of the trees, to the point where they obscure most of the view. One of our fellow visitors was lamenting that he had not brought his chain saw,

Public area at Mount Archer

Of the treetop walk we could find no sign, nor any mention of it on the signage at the park entrance. The best views are to be had from the small area of residential development that shares the mountain top with the national park and enjoys permanent spectacular views.

Our Bowen cabin with our car parked at the front stairs

We had booked a caravan park cabin in Bowen for two nights. It was a while since we had spent much time in Bowen, which is an attractive regional centre, with some excellent tourist facilities. The cabin was in good condition, fairly new and comfortable. It was located at the Queen’s Beach Tourist Village, which was packed with grey nomads.

Bowen is located on a peninsula and has both a northern and southern aspect. Horseshoe Beach at the north-eastern tip provides an easterly aspect as well.

Near the mouth of the Don River
Kings Beach between Horseshoe Beach and Flagstaff Hill
Coral Cove at the North-easterly tip of the North facing beaches

On the day we had available, we started at the mouth of the Don River and worked our way east to Horseshoe Beach and Rose Bay. The day was perfect and holiday makers were making the most of it. We made a quick call at Mullers Lagoon to check for bird life before visiting the main town centre. On our last visit here we still had a caravan and stayed at the caravan park by the harbour.

North Head Island Lighthouse marks the northern point of the entrance to Bowen Harbour

Finally, we drove to the summit of Flagstaff Hill for the views over the town and back south over the bay to Cape Gloucester and Gloucester Island, before returning to the cabin for lunch and a rest.

At about 4.00 PM we returned to Muller Lagoon for some bird photography and from there went back to Flagstaff Hill to watch the sunset from that vantage point. It wasn’t a great night for sunset colour, as there was almost no cloud cover to the west, but to watch the changing light on Bowen Harbour and the moon rise over Gloucester Island was not a bad substitute.

Tomato crop at a Bowen farm

On successive trips north we have noticed the increase in horticulture and market gardens, that seem to be expanding around the larger towns and occupying some of the land formally used for sugar cane production. Bowen has mangos aplenty as indicated by the Big Mango at the southern approach to the town, but tomatoes are now very much in evidence. I wonder if we will ever see a Big Tomato at the entrance to the town.

A nesting tree of Little Pied Cormorants
Bowen and Harbour in the fading light
The Moon rising over Gloucester Island
Sunset over The Great Dividing Range

Bowen is a coal town with many of its residents employed at the gigantic coal loading facility at Abbott Point, just 30 km to the north. In addition, I would think it an ideal location for fly in fly out employees in the mines of the Bowen Basin just over the range to the west. Perhaps drive in drive out as well.

The Big Mango is located at the Visitor Information Centre at the southern entrance to the town

On Tuesday morning we departed to Cairns under cloudy skies. By Townsville the sky had darkened and as we passed through Ingham and approached the mountains near Hinchinbrook Island, the rain started to fall in earnest. An umbrella was required to leave the car for lunch at Innisfail, during what was, according to the news, a 50 mm fall of rain.

Just south of Cairns the rain abated, but returned after we had settled into our motel unit in North Cairns. When it rains during holidays you just have to deal with it. The greater problem was that in booking I had failed to specify a ground floor room, so Ruth had to make it up fourteen steps. We dealt with that problem, for the four nights that we were there, by going out in the morning and returning at the end of the day, when all activities were done.

Far North Queensland Again – 2024 – Days 1 &  2

Note: Click on pictures to enlarge.

Each year, as winter arrives in South East Queensland, I start to make comments about moving to Cairns. At least for the remainder of the Winter. But it is in jest. To do so is not practically achievable. But we can visit.

Fraser Island viewed from Matthew Flinders LOokout
Fraser Island viewed from Matthew Flinders Lookout

Since our retirement in 2009, we have tried to spend as much of Winter as possible travelling in warmer climes, even if that created the need to travel through colder areas coming from or going to the warmer parts of the country.

For the last few years, at least since we sold our caravan, we have travelled North, usually during August. By the start of August, the colder weather has usually got to me to the extent that a chance to start Spring early is very persuasive. We missed last year, as our daughter who works in India, was back in Australia, but this year we put plans in place.

Ariadne was the first ship to bring settlers direct;y yo Hervey region

Originally the plans were to go to Cairns by train, with a sleeper berth on the Spirit of Queensland but we ultimately recognised that Ruth’s balance and mobility issues made that a poor choice. That arrangement would have had us returning home by air but we recognised that air travel out of a regional airport also had its problems. So, we decided that I would drive, but that we would take it in easy stages. We sort of did that, but necessity did dictate some variations.

Memorial and Plaque to commemorate the landing of Lt Flinders at Hervey Bay.

We left home on 16th August with Hervey Bay our first destination. We left home after morning coffee and made Gympie by lunch time. The new bypass is not yet open, but beyond barriers we could see the new dual carriageway stretching ahead of us. We came into town for lunch and departed in the direction of Rainbow Beach until we reached the road to Maryborough, which we followed to that town and proceeded to Urangan.

A Crested Tern in the rail of Urangan Pier.

While looking at maps before departure I had noticed the Matthew Flinders Lookout that is located between Urangan Harbor and the Urangan Pier. The lookout provided photographic opportunities, a parking space and toilets. Afterwards we moved the short distance to the base of the pier. Ruth remained in the car but I took more photos as I added to my daily step count along the famous Pier.

Our motel was at Pialba. After settling in I took my camera on a walk to acquire supplies for the evening. Perched on a power line just behind the motel I spied some birds, which I photographed. They were new to me and when compared to my bird identification book turned out to be a Black-face Cuckoo-shrike and a small group of White-breasted Swallow.

Black-faced Cuckoo-shrike
White-breasted Swallow
Pleasure boat at anchor at Turkey Beach

Rockhampton was our next destination. Just a little under 400 km for the day, we added about another 50 km by doing a detour to Turkey Beach, a town that most motorists just pass by. Turkey Beach is one of the few, perhaps the only, outpost of civilisation between Seventeen Seventy and Tannum Sands. It is a fishing village on one of the many inlets from the ocean that extend among the peninsulas and Mangrove swamps of the area.

Kangaroos at Turkey Beach picnic area
Memorial to Mr Ken O’Dowd MP former federal member for Wide Bay
Stinger free swimming enclosure
Rainbow Bee-eater on a power line

A good picnic area with amenities and a general store are its main amenities along with a launching ramp and stinger free swimming enclosure. A couple of women, enjoying the playground facilities with their children, assured us that it was a magic place to live.

A short drive, during which we stopped to examine a couple of American Brahmin bulls, brought is to the regional city of Rockhampton, situated as it is beside the broad waters of the Fitzroy River, with its many moored boats and hidden crocodiles.

Turkey Creek general store
Now, that is a lot of Bull

A Drive in the Country

The recently departed long, hot and wet summer and early Autumn was far from ideal for travel. And after all, that is what my blog posts are mostly about.

Two planned trips to Queensland’s Granite Belt and New South Wales New England, were aborted for both family and weather reasons. Although that trip may still occur, it is not yet bloggable and may never eventuate anyway.

But good things come to those who patiently wait. The weather forecast for Queensland’s Labor Day public holiday was predicted to be a ray of sunshine between the clouds and so it proved to be.

Kenilworth bakery and doughnuts
Kenilworth Friendly Grocer

Still hankering after Autumn colours, I recalled some Facebook comments from months ago, where a grove of trees near Kenilworth seemed to present possibilities. Unless you have word from the horse’s mouth, there can be no certainty about the timing of the appearance of Autumn colours.

We left home after breakfast, stopping at Wild Horse Mountain or coffee. At the north end of Nambour, we turned inland to Mapleton, followed the precipitous descent of Obi Obi Road and then Obi Obi Creek, to Kenilworth. Everything is so green at the moment. It was an enjoyable drive.

A Queue for the Loo
A visit from a Blue-faced Honeyeater

Lunch time had come, so we found a parking space after a bit of a search. Kenilworth is a poplar town on a sunny public holiday. We then walked the short distance to the Kenilworth Dairy, where lunch and cheese were both offered. Lunch first, then cheese.

As we waited for lunch to arrive, I took  couple of photos and rested my camera on the table. Suddenly, like out of nowhere, a Blue-faced Honeyeater landed on the adjoining table. There was no time for bird photography settings. It was grab and shoot and the bird was gone. You be the judge of the resulting photo.

Obi Obi Creek, near Kenilworth

We walked around town, as you do, while I took a few photos. Then we drove out to the grove of trees that, if they possessed an decency at all, would have presented leaves with all the colours of the Autumn spectrum. But no such luck. I am sure the I had located the correct trees, but my timing was obviously out. But I photographed them I took some photos of Obi Obi Creek as well. The grove of trees is at the head of this post.

The day had improved from its quite reasonable start. There was more blue sky than clouds and the temperature was delightful. Of the alternatives available to us we chose to drive toward Noosa. A recollection of a desire to climb Mount Tinbeerwah, located between Cooroy and Noosa, surfaced, so that is where we went.

Lake Cooroibah on the Noosa River

Ruth stayed with the car and I took the track to the summit, not sure if I would go all the way. But once on the track it was hard to turn back and the views improved as I climbed. The track is concrete with inlaid stones for most of the way with some sloping bare rocks and a few short flights with steps. Where needed, the stairs have handrails.

THe Summit of Mount Tinbeerwah

A roofed observation deck is at the summit. Rails enclose the area, as the peak is surrounded on three sides by precipitous cliffs. There were half a dozen people up there, all much younger than I am. One young fellow said that he was staying to photograph the sunset. The path down would be quite safe, even in declining light.

Dredging is currently in progress at the Mount of the Noosa River. We drove through Noosaville, appreciating the beauty of the river in the late afternoon and deciding that we would return for fish and chips in the twilight.

Noosa town and river through afternoon haze
The Noosa River bar in after noon light

Noosa Heads was its normal busy self. We patiently made our way to Hastings Street and slowly followed, as part of the traffic, along its narrow way. Almost every parking space along the road that leads to the river was taken. Those vacant were too far back to allow for an easy walk to the river.

This tree is a survivor of fire beside the Tinbeerwah car park.

We turned and slowly progressed to Noosaville, securing a parking spot adjacent to the river, a short walk from the vender of fish and chips. We found a table in the alfresco dining area and placed our order. There are always too many chips, but there certainly was adequate fish and assorted sea food. Quite a feast

More photos were taken at Noosaville, of course, ensuring a pleasant couple of hours next day as I processed them. Some accompany this blog.

We always enjoy Kenilworth and Noosa. I think this was the first time that we had visited them both on the same day.

In case you were wondering, the day after the public holiday was another nice day, despite the forecast to the contrary.

Cruising at Day’s End. Noosa River.
Noosa River Sunset

Interrupted Journey – North Queensland 2022 – Part 1

Part 1 – The Whitsunday Islands

Note: A video link appears at the bottom of this blog post.

Please Note: There is a video of the day in the Whitsunday Islands ay the end of this post.

The Mobile Sheathers are mobile again. We left home on the morning of Wednesday 10th August, for a tour that was planned to absorb the remaining days in August. But unexpected events occurred.

Our view to Port Airlie approaches

We departed in sunshine, came through a cloudy period around Gympie, then fine to our overnight stop at Gladstone. Brilliant sunrise on Thursday morning could only be seen through a window, without getting dressed and going outside, so no sunrise photograph.

A bit of rain south of Sarina and a bit more between Mackay and Proserpine but plenty of sun shining through the clouds as we topped the rise coming in to Airlie. We were able to enjoy that fantastic sunshine on blue water and green mountains view that is the reward for just getting there.

Whitsunday sunset from our balcony

We stayed at Club Wyndham, situated on the hill directly above the Port of Airlie, with little to obscure the view, after a fairly good drive, apart from road works. We estimate that at least 40% of the highway between Gympie and Gladstone has road works speed limits, 80, 60 or even 40 MPH if they get the chance. A bit frustrating but necessary. If you wonder why Australia is short of people to pick fruit, make coffee or all those other vacancies we keep hearing about, it is probably because so many are working building and repairing roads.

We enjoyed good weather at Airlie Beach, noticeably warmer than recent Redcliffe temperatures.  There has been early cloud, burning off to a clear afternoon.

New Shute Harbour Passenger terminal

On Friday morning, our first day at Airlie, we drove out to Shute Harbour to check out the new passenger terminal, built since the last cyclone. We also checked the logistics of the cruise through the Whitsunday Islands that we planned to do for suitability for Ruth, who gave it the thumbs up. We booked for the following day.

A view of Shute Harbour from near the houses on Coral Point, accessed from the road that runs behind and above the Shute Harbour car parking area.

We did a drive around the residential area that overlooks Shute Harbour area, then drove out to Mandalay Point (the range of hills opposite to Airlie Beach) to check on how the rich people live, or at least the houses that they live in. Some are beautiful houses with magnificent views of the bays and headlands around the residential area. A few original fisherman’s shacks remain.

Units on the hill at Airlie Beach.
The beach at Airlie Beach at low tide.

After lunch we did a walk around the Airlie town, including enjoying an ice-cream. Then back to our resort for a rest and dinner. Club Wyndham is built on the steep hill that overlooks the town and port facility. It is very steep but that provides the views. It is a very nice resort. We are staying here through the kindness of our son and daughter-in-law.

Shute Harbour Road in the heart of Airlie tourist strip
Poolside at Airlie, near the main beach
A recently completed mansion overlooks Airlie Beach
Cruise morning sunrise reflected on the clouds

On Saturday morning we drove out to Shute Harbour and boarded the “Nancy Wake”, our tour boat for the day.  From Shute Harbour we cruised past Daydream Island, through the Mole Passage and past the now unused South Mole Island where the once famous resort that was so badly damaged by Cyclone Debbie remains closed and unrepaired.

The charter yacht base at Shute Harbour

Our passage then led inside Cid Island and through the both picturesque and functional deep-water anchorage. The harbour was used for refuge for Naval vessels during WWII.

Daydream Island resort

The cruise continued through Hook Passage, the narrowing body of water between Hook & Whitsunday Islands and the shortest passage from Airlie and Shute Harbour to The Great Barrier Reef. The north-east part of Whitsunday is mountainous with precipitous drops to the sea. But not far along this coast is an inlet and Tongue Point, that provides a sheltered anchorage for vessels visiting Hill Inlet. A twenty-minute climb to the summit reveals sweeping views of Hill Inlet, Whitehaven Beach, Solway Passage and Haslewood Island.

A motor yacht making for Cid Harbour

With all back on board, lunch was served, after which we moved on to anchor off the southern end of Whitehaven Beach, to allow passengers ashore for a guided walk, sunbake or swim. My legs were a bit tired from the climb to Hill Inlet Lookout but I did go ashore for a walk along the beach. We were anchored there for about two and a half hours, with plenty of company from private and other tourist boats and even a small amphibious aircraft.

The southern end of Whitehaven Beach . Swim, sun bake, snorkel, hike. Take your pick.
Our tour boat, “Nancy Wake”.
A breaching Whale off Solway Passage

With all hands back on board, afternoon tea was served. We then set off then to complete our journey. We continued south through Solway Passage where we came upon some Whales playing, so stopped to watch their show. After a pause of 10 minutes or so, the Whales dived and we moved on past Hamilton Island and the neighbouring Dent Island and returned to Shute Harbour.

A Pleasure Boat passing Perseverance Island
The main Hamilton Island resort area
Hamilton Island Yacht Club and harbour entrance
Dent Island. The residence of the original owners is among the trees in the centre foreground.

The cruises past Hamilton Island provided an excellent view of both the tourist facilities and the stunningly located private accommodation on the northern end if the Island. This is a rich persons’ playground. Hamilton island Week was about to commence. Some of the large racing yachts were visible as our cruise boat proceeded past the harbour entrance, before turning for home. The afternoon light on both island and water was pleasing, as the sun moved towards sunset.

Hamilton Island, viewed over the stern of “Nancy Wake” as we headed back to Shute Harbour.

We had enjoyed a very pleasant day, to say the least. Lots of sunshine, seascapes, mountains, resorts plus more food than we could comfortably eat. We will move on tomorrow, very contented with our short stay in this paradise.