Sydney & Blue Mountains – Katoomba, Blackheath & Home

The Three Sisters were a bit further away than yesterday.

Wednesday was a day out of the tourist brochure, but Thursday dawned with total cloud cover. Happily, rain held off until about 3.00 PM. Aileen had had another bad night with her back and needed the services of another chiropractor. She found an appointment in Blackheath at mid-day. That left us with a morning to fill in.

Scenic World is high on the cliff edge.

We returned to Katoomba to drive some of the cliff top roads that provide views to the Jameson Valley. It was more of the same from the two previous days, but Blue Mountain scenery can stand some repeats. We stopped at a couple of lookouts, but the heavy cloud meant that the colours were subdued and nowhere near their best.

The Six Foot Track start.

For some older scenery we returned to the old site of Explorers Tree and confirmed that the rellick was no longer there. But on the other hand we did discover the Katoomba end of The Six Foot Track. It now begins at an eco-cultural plaza, I guess you would call it, with history and Aboriginal culture sharing prominence. The quality of the trail head path does not continue very far.

The former site of the Explorers Tree.

We returned to Blackheath for Aileen to subject herself to another pummelling. Then lunch at a gourmet sandwich shop in the main street of Blackheath. Different and very tasty.

Sadly, this is where my photos of the Blue Mountains end. I took some shots at Mount Wilson and on the way down the mountain to Lithgow but they are not on my camera or phone. It is a mystery.

A mural on the old theatre in Blackheath.

We still had an afternoon to fill. The last time that Ruth and had driven west to east over the Blue Mountains we had used the Bells Line of Road, the main link between Lithgow and Richmond on the Nepean River. I had noticed a turn to the left east of the small town of Bell, to Mount Wilson.  This small town became our destination.

From Blackheath we had a 32 km drive, the last 10 km or so on winding mountain roads. We found that we were in an area not unlike some of the less developed parts of the Dandenong Ranges in Victoria. The area is elevated with roads leading to large acreages blocks containing substantial houses with extensive gardens.

Another view into the Grosse Valley

There is a small commercial centre but no one was there. The area offers a number of walks but it would require a much better day to entice me onto any of them. At least we now know what is there.

Returning to Bell, we continued on towards Lithgow, hoping to take a look at the Zig Zag Railway, the heritage listed original railway that climbed the mountain from Lithgow. When I planned the trip, a ride on the railway was to have been on our itinerary, until I discovered that the train only operated on Friday to Monday. Rain had started by the time we reached Clarence Station, the top station of the Zig Zag Railway, so we drove past.

Anvil Rock

To cover new territory, we continued down the mountain to Lithgow, returning to Blackheath via Hartley and the Mount Victoria Pass. Beside the highway, we could see the new road being constructed, towards the base of the mountain where the tunnel will start.

Each time we drove to or from Katoomba we passed, in Blackheath main street, the Blackheath fish and chip shop. We subsequently discovered that the shop had opened about a year after Ruth and I had honeymooned in Katoomba. So, when dinner time approach Bernard and I sallied forth and acquired four seafood boxes. They provided a very satisfactory meal.

Thelma, Ruth flanked by old friends.

On Friday morning we were out of bed early as we all had a distance to cover before nightfall. We left Blackheath at around 8.30 AM, Aileen and Bernard bound for Cooma and Ruth and I for Coffs Harbour. It was a long day, but we used the tollway tunnel system to escape Sydney. Further north,we were interested to see the scope of the highway extensions under way to link the northern end of the Newcastle Bypass with the highway north of Raymond Terrace.

The birthday cake became desert.

A short drive on Saturday morning brought us to the RSL Club in Ballina and the eightieth birthday celebration that was the gneisses of the whole trip south. It was a successful event. We renewed acquaintances with folk from our days in Melbourne who we have not seen for a very long time.

Next morning, with the family of our new eighty-year-old, we enjoyed the views over Shelly Beach from a café, as we shared brunch with visitors who had come to Ballina for the celebration. Suitably refuelled, we climbed back into the car for the last three hours of our trip.

Sydney & Blue Mountains – In the Mountains

A statue to the memory of William Charles Wentworth in Wentworth Falls

Today is the day on which we meet Aileen and Bernard at Blackheath. They are arriving from an overnight stop at Cooma and Ruth and I from three nights at Cronulla.

With time to spare, we stuck to surface roads and left tunnels to the local commuters. We took a rest break at the large Penrith shopping centre, to purchase some necessary supplies and enjoy morning coffee. We proceeded via the old Great Western Highway, crossing the Nepean River on the old bridge and re-joining the new freeway at Blaxland.

The four-lane highway now reaches west of Katoomba and is kept clear of local traffic to some degree by service roads. That can make finding somewhere to pull off a bit more difficult. We did a bit of backtracking but finally found a cafe in the main street of Wentworth Falls for lunch. It was located in the old Wentworth post-office building and offered a pleasant environment for a break. We understand towns that have lost their post-office. We have lost our PO at Redcliffe, too.

We arrived at our lodgings at about 2.00 PM with our rellies arriving about thirty minutes later. Our cabin was on the side of a hill, giving us views over the park. We soon were settled in with a cuppa. I took a walk with my camera as the evening approached. We adjourned to a local pub for dinner.

This photo understates the density of the fog.
Waiting for the fog to clear.
Fog rising from the escarpment. These cliffs are near Medlow Bath.

Tuesday dawned fog bound. It finally lifted at about 10.00 AM so we set off to explore. Govetts Leap with its views into the Gross Valley was just down the road from our cabin so we started there. As expected, it was still fog bound. So we set off for lower country, returning to Blackheath and making our way down the steep narrow road to Megalong Valley. And is was particularly narrow as several hundred meters of half of the road had slidden down the hill during recent heavy rain. A weight limit was in place that would impact larger vehicles.

Trees in bloom were everywhere. This one was over the road from the caravan park.

Our drive took us past the tea house, primary school and Megalong Creek to the point where the Six Foot Track crosses Megalong Road. During the period since we last visited, a couple of wineries and an eco lodge have been established.

The Six Foot Track was closed for pest eradication so there was no walkers. This track was built to provide access for passenger carrying horses transporting tourists from Katoomba to Jenolan Caves in the early days. The track is 42 km long and provides the running track for an annual marathon. It can be walked in about three days. Two if you hurry. It’s name is drawn from the original specification that required it to be built at least six feet wide to allow two loaded horses to pass.

The Six Foot Track where it crosses the Megalong Valley Road.
Megalong Valley Tea Rooms serves good coffee and food.

The Megalong Valley Tea House was our lunch destination and provided acceptable food and coffee. Or tea for Bernard. There were a few flies about and cicadas serenaded us from the trees, leaving us in no doubt that we were in the bush.

The memorial to the Blue Mountain Crossing. Each of its sides tell part of the story.

With a full afternoon ahead of us we drove first to Mount Victoria and then Mount York. Mount Victoria is on the Great Western Highway, just before it plunges down Mount Victoria Pass through Hartley. However the best views to the west are to be seen from Mount York, just 5.5 km along Mount York Road to the north west.

Mount York has a number of monuments to exploration, plus a parking and camping area. There are many mountain tracks and rock climbs in the area. Through a stone archway is a pointed rectangular based monument that commutates, among other things, the first crossing of the Blue Mountains.

Along another track is a fenced lookout and Eddy Rock. Eddy Rock is a memorial to Commissioner Eddy who was in charge of NSW Railways when the railway was extended from Sydney to beyond the mountains. The views from Eddy Rock are spectacular and reach from Hartley, over Cox’s River towards Lithgow. Much green grass and acreage living.

Part of the view from Mount York, towards Lithgow. The access lanes to the Mount Victoria tunnel are in the upper left of the photo.
Eddy Rock, the memorial to the NSW Railway Commissioner.

I had read reports of a tunnel to built to provide a less steep road from the west to the top of the Blue Mountains. We had seen significant road works at Medlow Bath. Standing on the lookout at Mount York we could see extensive road duplication approaching the steep mountain side where the Great Western Highway starts its climb. Some research provided the information that a tunnel is under construction. It will steadily climb from the west and join the current highway between Blackheath and Medlow Bath.

Boronia blooms at Anvil Rock carpark.

From Mount York we worked our way back to Blackheath via various lookouts including Anvil Rock, Perry Lookdown and finally Govetts Leap Lookout.

There was a good wildflower display at Anvil Rock car park and Perry Lookdown provided more views of the Gross Valley. I think it is called a lookdown because of the views that it provides of the forest on the valley floor.

Bridal Veil Falls at Govetts Leap.

Govetts Leap is very popular as the size of the parking and viewing area suggests. It is said to have gained its name when a government surveyor named Govett jumped his horse over a cliff side fence, landing on a narrow ledge between the fence and a sheer drop of several hundred metres.

Govetts Leap Lookout provides excellent views into the Gross Valley and of the mountain ranges that form it. There are many broad expanses of Sandstone that reflects the sun’s rays on a sunny day. The lookout also provides stunning views of Bridal Veil Falls that drop 180 meters from a stream on the plateau to the valley floor. The water flow was not great but the sheer drop makes up for that. We have seen these falls with more water flowing and they look great. There are several walks in the area, some of them involving many hundreds of steps. Down and then back up!

The mountains viewed from Govetts Leap across the Grosse Valley.
An almost deserted Govetts Leap Lookout.
Ruth, Aileen and Bernard looking out from Govetts Leap.

We returned to the cabin to prepare for the evening. Bernard, a keen golfer, suggested the golf club. We enjoyed a very good meal, but almost had the club dining room to ourselves.

But the day was not quite over. On 28th November Aileen will turn 80. We could not let the event pass without celebrating, so we bought a birthday cake and some candles. We returned to the cabin after dinner to cut the cake and sing “Happy Birthday” but found that we had no matches to light the candles. Undaunted, the candles remained unlit and we dealt with most of the cake. finishing the task with coffee next morning.