West, Centre & Flinders – Days 61 to 68 – Homeward Bound

 

We stopped for lunch near a flowering gum tree

We stopped for lunch near a flowering gum treeWe gave ourselves an easy day on Saturday with only 137 kilometres to the steam museum town of Peterborough. This reasonably substantial town is on the main Sydney to Adelaide railway line, which is also the line on which ore mined in Broken Hill makes its way to the smelter at Port Pirie. Peterborough was a major rail town during the days of steam. It now uses its heritage as a tourist attraction.

The day had improved by the time we had booked into the Peterborough Caravan Park but a chilly night followed. Sunday morning was overcast, but as we made our way to Broken Hill the clouds made way for real warmth from the sun.

The restaurant building at the Miners' Memorial.

The restaurant building at the Miners’ Memorial.

We booked two nights at Broken Hill to allow for shopping for the final days to home but also to allow us to do the tourist thing. We drove to the Miners’ Memorial at the top of the huge mullock heap that separates the town from the mining area. We were disappointed to find the memorial buildings closed. The restaurant and adjoining gift shop that was so “in” when we were last there, seemed completely closed and the actual memorial building was closed for renovations as well.

Roadside flowers on the road to Silverton

Roadside flowers on the road to Silverton

After lunch we drove the 24 kilometres to the historic silver mining town of Silverton. Not much remains of the original town but most remaining buildings have been restored and “reading desk” type information signs provide details of restored buildings and some other features. The amount of vacant space between the remaining buildings and relics

With new owners the Silverton Coffee Shop may reopen.

With new owners the Silverton Coffee Shop may reopen.

indicate that it was a substantial town. A coffee shop, still operating on our last visit, is now closed, although the building has been sold. The pub seems to do a good trade and the Mad Max Museum continues to pull in devotees. There are also two or three artists who work from galleries in the town.

 

Silverton's Mad Max Museum

Silverton’s Mad Max Museum

The approach to the Day Dream Silver Mine passes the old smelter flue on the hilltop

The approach to the Day Dream Silver Mine passes the old smelter flue on the hilltop

This visit we did the side trip to the Day Dream Silver Mine, where I did the underground tour. The mine is about 15 kilometres off the Silverton Road. In its day the mine was a rich source of silver with its own smelter sighted on a neighboring hill top to take advantage of gravity to assist the smelting process. The tour visited points of interest on the surface before we donned hard hats with miner’s lights for the underground portion of the tour.

Mining equipment under ground. Visitors can stand at the drill and gain some idea of what it was like to work in the mine.

Mining equipment under ground. Visitors can stand at the drill and gain some idea of what it was like to work in the mine.

The mine was quite deep, descending four levels. There were only a few steps, as the tour followed the sloping shaft that had itself followed the ore body into the bowls of the earth. The irregularities of the floor provided for secure footing and stout hand rails had been installed.

 

 

A display of mining tools in an area where the roof is supported by local timber.

A display of mining tools in an area where the roof is supported by local timber.

Mining tools, both manual and mechanical, were on display in appropriate locations throughout the mine. The guide was an experienced miner with a real gift for telling the mining story. To hear it all right where the underground activity occurred made it all very real. We finished the visit with a mug of tea and fresh scones, baked on the premises.

This photo was taken from the moving vehicle. There were no shoulders on the road to pull over.

This photo was taken from the moving vehicle. There were no shoulders on the road to pull over.

Tuesday was about making distance in an attempt to avoid rain and strong head winds. Cobar, yet another mining town, was our stopover destination for Tuesday evening. The only town between Broken Hill and Cobar is Wilcannia, where we stopped for fuel. After leaving Wilcannia the elevated roadway runs for several kilometres over Darling River flood plains, before entering low hills.

Massed floral displays between Bourke & Cunnamulla

Massed floral displays between Bourke & Cunnamulla

Generally the terrain is flat with only modest hills to provide some variety. Recent rain is evident from water lying beside the road and the abundance of greenery. And wild flower! The sides of the road were covered in masses of purple blooms. The purple is frequently interspersed with a variety of smaller flowers. Periodically the pastures are covered with masses of yellow and white. While watching such natural beauty, the kilometres and hours passed relatively quickly.

More roadside floral displays

More roadside floral displays

For the second day in succession we have driven past endless kilometres of road side gardens. Colours of white, blue, yellow, orange and shades of red have appeared like a planted garden against a background of the greens of grass, shrubs and trees. Periodically patches of white, yellow and red have run out of sight, between road side trees or reached in masses towards the horizon of the open fields.

The drive was between Cobar and Cunnamulla with a brief refueling stop at Bourke, a distance of around 415 kilometres. We saw the first evidence of the amount of rain that has fallen through the area. Up to now all we have seen, besides the rain, has been abundant grass and wild flowers.

Several streams had broken their banks.

Several streams had broken their banks.

The level of water in the Darling at Bourke was the highest that I have seen in several visits. North of Bourke, drainage channels beside the road were full of water. North of the Queensland /NSW border several streams had broken their banks and a few centimeters of water were running across the pavement in two places.

The remaining water over the road was shallow but had obviously been deeper.

The remaining water over the road was shallow but had obviously been deeper.

From Cobar to Burke we were on the final section of the Kidman Way. From Burke we had joined the Mitchell Highway that terminates where it joins the Landsborough Highway at Augathella. But it all seems to be part of the Matilda Way, but I’m not sure where the Matilda Way starts and finishes. But it is a busy road being a link between Southern capitals and both Northern Territory and Queensland and carries a lot of heavy traffic. We met several over dimensional loads, one requiring us to move right off the road.

The weather had been warmer, but the forecast is for rain and reduced temperatures over night and for the next few days. Fairly strong winds were forecast. When they eventuated they were behind us, pushing us along.

The swollen Warrego River at Cunnamulla. Water heading for the Darling River

The swollen Warrego River at Cunnamulla. Water heading for the Darling River

Before we booked into the caravan park at Cunnamulla we drove through town to check the water level in the Warrego River. The water level was well below the bridge but much higher than we had ever seen it before.

The forecast rain caught us at Cunnamulla but the greater part of it fell to the north of us. The rain had passed through by morning but we caught up with the last of it on the way to St George.

Water flooding over the weir on the Bolonne River at St. George

Water flooding over the weir on the Balonne River at St. George

Another 300 kilometres of flat road, some of it a bit narrow but most quite rough, due to periodic flooding, I suspect. The Weir on Wallam Creek, beside the road at Bollon, was overflowing as was the major weir on the Balonne River at St George. All of the excess water is heading for the Darling and the Murray Rivers.

The only disturbance to a peaceful night at the Pelicans Rest Caravan Park was the yapping of two dogs in the caravan next to us, whenever something disturbed them.

Flowering shrubs between St George and Dalby.

Flowering shrubs between St George and Dalby.

Dalby was our destination on Friday, which would have been another 300 kilometre day. But we were there by lunch time so decided to go on a further 100 kilometres to Yarraman. This very pleasant town sits almost at the foot of Bunya Mountains and has a caravan park atop a hill. We had been travelling in sunshine all that day, pushed along by a stiff but a cool westerly, that moderated by evening. But we still needed the heater that night.

On Saturday morning the easterly aspect of our overnight position gave us a brilliant sunrise and a promise of a day with temperatures in the mid twenties.  Saturday was the first day of a long weekend so the road was busy, particularly the lanes leading away from Brisbane. Traffic accumulating behind us made it necessary to keep the rig moving and to pull over occasionally to let our “tail” go by.

We arrived home just before lunch, to start the tasks of unpacking and cleaning and to deal with two months accumulation of dead gum leaves, blown down by winter winds while we have been away.

The promised temperature eventuated. I am back in shorts and all is right with the World.

So ends another trip, shorter in duration than originally intended but not much shorter in distance. We lost about two weeks to wet weather but the days that it did not rain were mostly sunny although sometimes kept rather cool by persistent winds. But we had a good time, saw some new places, met new friends and learned new things.

We can’t ask for much more, can we?

Journey to Trilby Station – Our Stay at Trilby

With the dirt roads closed for an unknown period, we needed to choose a new route to Trilby Station and we needed to be on sealed roads until the dirt roads dried out. To wait in Balranald until the dirt roads were usable would not give us time to use the roads along the Darling River as initially planned and still get to Trilby on time. The logical route was north on the Kidman Way to Cobar, as this would give the dirt sections of the road in via Louth time to dry out and become usable again.

So we followed the rain back along the Stuart Highway, turning north at Darlington Point and detouring to have a look at Leeton on our way to Griffith, where we planned to spend the night. From the moment that we left Balranald we could see a large rain storm ahead of us, tracking along the Murrumbidgee. We finally caught it just before Hay, driving through its trailing end as it crossed the highway.

The court yard at Yanga Statiom

The court yard at Yanga Statiom

But before we caught up with the rain, just east of Balranald, we made a brief detour to Yanga Homestead, now located in a national park that takes its name. The homestead, which opens for tours at times, is still a magnificent structure, set on a hill overlooking the impressive Lake Yanga. Park HQ is located here and national parks rangers conduct the tours of

The view of the lake from the homestead.

The view of the lake from the homestead.

the house and tag along tours of the property. Our schedule did not allow us to participate in such activities but it was interesting to see an example of how life was lived on a large station in times gone by. We were able to see into quite a lot of the rooms, still furnished, through the windows. A visitor centre in the old cook’s cottage contained a great deal of information about the station and the role that is played in the area.

We struck heavy rain between Leeton and Griffith. It conveniently removed all of the red mud that we had picked up on a short, but wet and muddy area of road works on the drive into Leeton. The extensive vineyards along this stretch of road are just coming to life after the winter hibernation, so the growers would have been delighted with the rain.

Lake Cargelligo

Lake Cargelligo

Instead of following the Kidman Way out of Griffith we took the Rankins Springs Road and continued from there to Lake Cargelligo, where we spent two days, doing nothing much. There really isn’t much to do there but, after all the driving we enjoyed the break. I remember Dad talking about Lake Cargelligo. I understand that he visited there during his time based at Condoblin. Lake Cargelligo is on the Lachlan River so has a sort of connection to Lake Mungo. Its water is used for irrigation.

Louth Pub - Shindy's Inn

Louth Pub – Shindy’s Inn

Our path from Lake Cargelligo lead through the small town of Eubelong, then along a road that until recently had gravel sections but is now fully sealed, to join the Kidman Way at the old copper town of Mount Hope. An easy run on a good road, one that we had used only a little over a year ago, brought us to its intersection with the Barrier Highway at Cobar. The Bourke

The bridge over the Darling at Louth

The bridge over the Darling at Louth

Shire web site declared the dirt parts of the Louth Road open to light traffic, so we were good to go next morning.

It is about 150 kilometres from Cobar to Trilby Station, the first third of which was a good sealed road with the balance varying between good and not so good dirt

Range lands west of the Darling River

Range lands west of the Darling River

and gravel. The country side is fairly flat and scrubby with cleared areas for agriculture and grazing. There was not much road kill and we saw one kangaroo, hundreds of feral goats and more emu than I think we have seen anywhere.

A sign at the pub in Louth declares it to be the site of the “East Side Port”. The Darling River is currently at a level

It's a long climb down to the water

It’s a long climb down to the water

that would have made it unusable to paddle wheel steamers with not much water and plenty of exposed sand banks, but the height of the exposed banks shows the adequate navigable depth available when the river is running near to the top of the banks, or even when only partly full.

Louth is a very small town with a district population of 103 at the last census. The pub doubles as shop, restaurant and fuel supply. It has an attached camping park. The town also boasts a tennis club, and turf club. The annual race meeting attracts folk from near and far. It is an event of such significance that the Bourke Shire Council grades the approaching gravel roads in preparation. That all occurred not that long before we were there and the roads were generally in quite good condition as a result.

The wool shed provided a venue for our group activities

The wool shed provided a venue for our group activities

Trilby station is on the west side of the river, so we crossed the bridge over the Darling and drove the 25 km to our destination. Users of the ExplorOz web site (the one to which I direct you if you want to follow our movements) conduct what are known as “gatherings” at locations around Australia. They are self help ventures and can be set up by an individual. Interested

Accommodation is available on the shearers quarters, located among shady trees

Accommodation is available on the shearers quarters, located among shady trees

members then indicate their interest and the convener makes sure that all of the details are pulled together.

About 120 of us gathered at Trilby Station. Some of us occupied powered sites near the homestead while others camped in a series of camp sites along the river. Trilby has Telstra Next G coverage so we were able to maintain contact with the outside world.

Vans on the powered sites naer the shearers quarters

Vans on the powered sites near the shearers’ quarters

Gathering programs are not very formal and attendees are left to do what they like for most of the time. There is a formal meeting at around 3.30 each afternoon where fund raising activities take place. The station owners, the Murray family (Murrays living on the Darling), hosted a three course dinner in their modern wool shed on the Wednesday night which also saw some fund raising activities, including the rather unpredictable sport of yabby racing. The beneficiary of the charitable activity was the Louth committee of the Royal Flying Doctor Service to who we presented around $3,200. They were delighted!

Water trough with a storage tank in the background.

Water trough with a storage tank in the background.

One available activity was to borrow a station “mud map” and take a look at the property. There is no shortage of roads to drive. Trilby Station covers 320,000 acres and supports up to 24,000 Marino sheep. On the day of our arrival they were sheering the station rams, of which there are about 300. Quite a hand full for even an experienced shearer! There are 6 sheering stands in the very modern

A long straight fence

A long straight fence

and clean wool shed. Wool producing activities are supplemented by the capture of feral goats which are fattened for the export market.

We did both station drives on roads with multiple gates. Ruth says she opened and closed about 20 of them. The longest station tour was about 80 kilometres with a distance at one point of 8 kilometres between gates in a direct line. I think that was what they call the 50,000 acre paddock.

A ground storage tank or dam

A ground storage tank or dam

As you drive around this type of semi arid property the paramount value of water becomes very obvious. Tanks, both the conventional above ground type and those dug into the ground, appear at regular intervals with accompanying drinking troughs and windmills or pumps to lift the water. This country sits atop the Great Artesian Basin so that is the main source of water but rain is needed to provide feed for the sheep.

Abandoned New Chum homestead

Abandoned New Chum homestead

In these days of increasing station size, properties are often merged. Sometimes the second homestead is used as a residence for station workers but at times these houses are no longer required. Such was the case on Trilby many years ago. The occupants of what had been the New Chum homestead were moving to a fully furnished house so just walked out, taking only

Ruth remembering going to work in Sydney

Ruth remembering going to work in Sydney

clothing and personal effects and left everything else there. In case someone was stranded and needed it, they said. The homestead is a feature of the drive, still remarkably intact, with packaged food items and crockery still in the cupboards.

Nearby a large tank or dam supplied many of the racing

Sheep on the higher country near New Chum homestead. The hills in the far distance are on the other side of the Darling

Sheep on the higher country near New Chum homestead. The hills in the far distance are on the other side of the Darling

yabbies and continues to supply water to the stock. The aircraft hanger still stands and is host to a collection of old motor vehicles including a very old Sydney double decker bus. The air strip is still used for station activities.

The second mud map excursion, which we did a couple of days later, took us to the area where

This machine appears to be a harvester of some kind

This machine appears to be a harvester of some kind

agriculture once flourished, mainly as a food source for the large number of animals that provided the energy to get things done on the property. The area is adjacent to the Darling River and is the final resting place of the early farm machinery. Name plates include some well known names such as H.V. McKay & Co.

The remains of the wood carrying jinker

The remains of the wood carrying jinker

Of particular interest to me was the remains of the jinker that was used to transport wood for the boiler that provided steam to drive the water pump that drew irrigation water and water for the stock, from the river. It had wheels made from sawn sections off a log.

The remains of the boiler stand on the edge of the bank above the river, and a pipe still connects to the pump that lies partly submerged at

The steam boiler on the river bank

The steam boiler on the river bank

the edge of the river. The pump formerly resided under the bottom end of a slide wharf that was used to load wool and unload supplies, but has been left exposed as the timbers have rotted away.

Floods are quite common along the full length of the Darling and Trilby is no exception. There is no need for there to have been local rain as

Members of our party examine the pump at the waters' edge.

Members of our party examine the pump at the waters’ edge.

Darling River floods come from afar, mostly from the central highlands of Queensland. Rivers from this area, starting with the Paroo that raises North West of Charleville and then successively swing in an arc to the south east to the McIntyre River that forms the NSW/Queensland border, and several in northern NSW, all run into the Darling. So, a few weeks after places like Charleville and Roma flood the good folk at Trilby will find themselves isolated on their own island, formed by the levy banks that keep the waters of the Darling away from the homestead and other important buildings. It is just as well that the levy banks enclose the air strip and hangar. But that is by design.

A memorial to Mary Mathews, first wife of TA in the cemetery. On the anniversary of her death the polished cross reflects light onto the spot where the house stood in which she lived.

A memorial to Mary Mathews, first wife of TA in the cemetery. On the anniversary of her death the polished cross reflects light onto the spot where the house stood in which she lived.

One of the founding fathers of the district, an Irishman by the name of Thomas Andrew Mathews, later known as the King of Louth, was born in County Louth in Ireland, hence the name of the town. One of TA’s early business ventures was a pub on the river bank. There is a pub there today called Shindy’s Inn, which is the one that provides most of the services available in the town. On out last day in the area, in company with friends from the gathering, we adjourned to Shindy’s Inn for lunch. We were seated at a large table sawn from a large log and shaded by conveniently placed trees. The food was excellent and the beverages cold.

Liz Murray, hostess to guests at the station, came to the area to work in the late 1970s, met Garry Murray at Shindy’s Inn, married him and has never left the area. Garry is a descendant of early pioneers. At about the time that TA Mathews was establishing Louth the first Murray to the area built a pub further down the river. But he died in his thirty’s and his family decided that there was more money in cattle and sheep than beer, so he became a farmer. Garry and Liz continue the family calling.

The Darling River in the background of the cooking site

The Darling River in the background of the cooking site

On Wednesday, the day between our two mud map tours, we took instruction from friends Trev and Marg in the art of damper baking. The first attempt was successful, producing an edible damper. Marg supervised, Ruth mixed and I watched. Much of the success, however, was due to Trev’s stewardship of the fire. He had prepared excellent quality red hot

The result of our cooking. Our damper is on the left

The result of our cooking. Our damper is on the left

coals and skilfully heaped them around the base and on the lid of the camp oven. I then assisted by eating my share. On a future trip, when we can light a camp fire, we will have a go on our own. We will report results – perhaps!

 

 

And the recipe?

  • Four cups of self raising flour
  • A bit of salt (to taste)
  • Water to produce suitable consistency (like scone dough)

Put it in the camp oven, add coals and keep taking a peep to make sure that it is not burning. Eat with butter and golden syrup, preferably while still warm.

A steam traction engine lays where it was last used, about 80 years ago

A steam traction engine lays where it was last used, about 80 years ago

Fellow attendees at the gathering had indicated that the road back to Bourke was a bit rough at the southern end (it is dirt all the way) but reports on the alternative road that runs on the western side of the river were much better, so we chose that road as our departure route. We were not disappointed and had a smooth road all of the way with the exception of some corrugated areas at cattle grids.

A alrge ground tank complete with a goat trap

A alrge ground tank complete with a goat trap

We stopped for morning tea by a stream and found that it was the lower reaches of the Warrego River that flows through Charleville and Cunnamulla. This route brought us into Bourke from the north, past the site of Fort Bourke, established by Major Thomas Mitchell on his expedition through the area and past the cotton growing area that is irrigated from the Darling.

Sunset through the trees at Collarenabri

Sunset through the trees at Collarenabri

Two more nights spent along the way and we were home. Despite challenges from the rain we were able to visit most of the areas that we had planned. But the Darling River between Louth and Wentworth, where it joins the Murray River, remain as a challenge for another day.

Liz Murray has prepared a detailed history of the family, station and district,  a copy of which was part of our arrival kit. So I am indebted to Liz for the historical detail that is included in this post.

 

Different Way There … and Back – Post 9

Day 47 – 13th May – Castlemaine to Kerang – 165 Km

At this point we deviated from the original plan, which was to turn south to Geelong, drive the Great Ocean Road and then turn north through Western Victoria. This part of the trip was predicated on reasonably warm weather so had been in some doubt since the weather had turned cold a couple of weeks before. But when we saw the forecast for wind, rain and very cold conditions we decided to keep moving north.  In this decision Mildura was abandoned as well. We would go to Mungo National park via Balranald.

Once through the ever spreading suburbs of Bendigo the road to Kerang is on the edge of the Murray Valley. This area produces grain in copious quantities. The fields, often trimmed by rows of trees, alternated between last year’s stubble, ploughed awaiting grain and already planted. Many areas have had insufficient rain to plant yet so all eyes are turned to the sky. So were ours as a huge rain storm seemed to follow us for a while, but it crossed our path to the rear. We had heavy rain that night.

A surprise along the way, at our lunch stop, was the town of Serpentine. This small country town was the site of Australia’s very first air race. Four aircraft fought out the battle for first place. A small memorial commemorates the event.

Day 48 – 14th May – Kerang

Reporting deadlines were due in the next couple of days, so we stayed in Kerang for a second night. It was a good day to stay in the van and work. It was cloudy, windy and cold all day.

Day 49 – 15th May – Kerang to Griffith – 341 Km

Ruth’s knee continued to give her problems and the need to be constantly climbing into and out of both van and car was awkward and painful.  Add to this that the coming couple of weeks of the trip would take us into much rougher country the sensible conclusion was that we should head for home. We decided against a dash and instead decided to make our way north via the Kidman Way.

To put this revised plan into action we started out to the north across the Murray River to Deniliquin, turned east to Finlay and then made our way along the Newell Highway to Jerilderie, where the Kidman Way commences. The Kidman Way, of course, is named in honour of Sir Sydney Kidman, one of Australia’s true beef industry pioneers.

This southern area of NSW is flat grazing country with some agriculture. We travelled through this kind of country until we reached the irrigation area at Coleambally and then Griffith. As we approached Griffith the vineyards and orchards increased and lead into the commercial sprawl which seems to occupy the roadsides into towns of this kind.

We found a parking spot near a grocery store to do some shopping. This activity took us along the main street both going and coming. It has to be one of the longest shopping strips we have seen and one of the busiest as well. We found a caravan park and settled for the night.

The RV parking area at Griffith is right by this attractive canal.

The RV parking area at Griffith is right by this attractive canal.

Day 50 – 16th May – Griffith to Cobar – 366 Km

The day dawned with a heavy fog blanketing everything but soon the sun started poking through with the promise of a better day. The gentle climb out of town took us past more vineyards and orchards but then the country flattened to rich agricultural and grazing land. We passed several large wheat silos with additional grain stored under tarpaulins. Last year must have been a good harvest.

The main town on the way to Cobar is Hillston, a town about which I knew nothing. I joked to Ruth as we left Griffith “If there is a McDonalds at Hillston I’ll have a skinny chino”.  There was no McDonalds but as we pulled into a caravan parking space (Hillston is a RV friendly town), to continue the joke, I said “I’ll have fresh scones for morning tea”. I didn’t even get a laugh!

As we got out of the car Ruth said, “Isn’t that a coffee shop over there?” So we were introduced to The Shed on the Lachlan, where we did enjoy a skinny chino and fresh scones with jam and cream. We were a bit early for sausage rolls. They were under construction in the food preparation area behind the counter. The building was in the style of a shed with the river literally at its back door.

The Shed on the Lachlan. The coffee shop at Hillston.

The Shed on the Lachlan. The coffee shop at Hillston.

The Lachlan right behind the Shed.

The Lachlan right behind the Shed.

 

Hillston is a substantial town and is a service centre to grazing and agriculture and cotton production. The cotton harvest has recently finished and large yellow wrapped cylindrical cotton bales were lined up in the fields waiting for transport.

The country through which we travelled as we approached Cobar.

The country through which we travelled as we approached Cobar.

Finally the flat farming lands gave way to low hilly scrub covered country that continued until we reached Cobar. The initially fine day gave way to dark patches of rain clouds which moved in strips across the landscape producing alternatively wet and dry sections of road.

The deep hole of Cobar's copper mine.

The deep hole of Cobar’s copper mine.

Cobar is a mining town with a very deep hole just outside the town where copper has been extracted. We drove to the look out where we could see to the very bottom of the hole and then drove around some of the back streets of town looking at the miners’ cottages. Most were small, many with clear signs of extension and a substantial proportion probably getting on towards the century mark.

Day 51 – 17th May – Cobar to Willie Retreat – 235 Km

I have been interested in the Macquarie Marshes since reading about the grief they gave to some of Australia’s early explorers. They stretch from Warren in the south almost to Walgett in the north. A visit had been in our south bound itinerary but got bumped for other activities. Since the area was not too far from our path home we decided to visit for a couple of days and stay at Willie Retreat on Willie Station.

The shearers' quarters anr the main accommodation building.

The shearers’ quarters anr the main accommodation building.

To get there we abandoned the Kidman Way at Cobar and turned east to Nyngan. Then we travelled in a north easterly direction for about 110 Km over sealed reads that started at full width but progressively narrowed until just wide enough for one vehicle. We were passed by two and met by only one vehicle in the whole journey. The country was uniformly flat with most trees along water courses and passed station homesteads or roads regularly both sides. We ran out of tar and onto a good dirt road about 10 Km from Willie Retreat. Our lunch stop was by Duck Creek without a single duck in sight.

Willie Retreat is on Willie Station which abuts the southern Macquarie Marshes.  The station no longer runs cattle or sheep but Myra Tolhurst, survivor of a partnership with her late husband Philip, runs the Retreat for visitors to the marshes. In the few days before our arrival she played host to a national parks training group who were being taught how to shoot feral animals from a helicopter.

Myra with Patrick the pet pig.

Myra with Patrick the pet pig.

Willie Retreat is not a caravan park but a station stay with facilities suitable for that purpose. Like many such establishment the accommodation is based on the original shearers’ quarters. A bit rough but comfortable and supplemented by a bunk house, on site vans, powered van sites and an extensive camping area.

The station is on a historic road and hosts the remains of a Cobb & Co depot.

The station is on a historic road and hosts the remains of a Cobb & Co depot.

Day 52 – 18th May – Macquarie Marshes

Yesterday’s sunshine was a memory and a cloudy cold day a reality. We made a late start and rewarded ourselves for our lack of application with bacon and eggs for breakfast. We walked around the property greeting the pet emus and examining the edge of the marsh which, at the moment, is more dry land than wet land. It has been dry in this part of NSW for the last year or so.

The Macquarie River near Willie Retreat.

The Macquarie River near Willie Retreat.

A black winged stilt blocking our way.

A black winged stilt blocking our way.

After lunch we drove along the dusty Gibson Way that runs through the middle of the marshes. This road is cut when the Macquarie is in flood. The Macquarie River, just 1 Km down the road, is totally dry but as we drove on we found a few places where we could see the marshes as they are in wet conditions.  There were lots of water birds but few compared to the number involved in the mass breeding of recent years.

This picture should have contained water and birds.

This picture should have contained water and birds.

The road is dirt and was in good condition but a bit dusty. Rain turns it into a quagmire. We decided to drive its full length to the small town of Quambone on the eastern side of the marshes. The sign at the entrance of the town advises that 197 people live in the Quambone district. That would include those residing on station properties.

Quambone claims the smallest library. And it has propper sized books.

Quambone claims the smallest library. And it has propper sized books.

As we drove along the main street we noticed great activity around what appeared to be the only shop. We stopped to investigate when we saw a sign that said “Paint today, free lunch tomorrow”. It seems that the previous owner of the shop, which is also the post office, allowed it to almost run to a dead stop. A young couple from Perth have taken it over and are trying to turn it into a general store, coffee shop and take away business. But there is no quick fortune to be made here so getting it up and running was a real challenge.

The working bee at the Quambone store.

The working bee at the Quambone store.

Somehow the local Salvation Army rural chaplaincy found about the problem and with the help of a Rotary Club from Canberra set up a project to renovate the building. So a team of workers arrived in town and set to work. The team had to return home on the previous day but the painting had not been completed. So the Salvation Army chaplains (husband and wife) and some volunteer farmers were painting and putting on finishing touches. We contributed by having coffee and cake and posting it on Face Book. We chatted to the helpers. Lovely people all!

Day 53 – 19th May – Willie Retreat to Lake Keepit – 360 Km

Our journey east crossed our southbound track at Coonamble on the Castlereagh Highway. We left Willie Retreat at about 9.30 am after acquiring a bottle of Willie Retreat honey. River Red Gum flavour!

The first part of the journey retraced our drive of the previous day to Quambone,  then to Coonamble, Baradine, Coonabarabran where we stopped to shop and for lunch and finally to Gunnedah and the caravan park overlooking the waters of the dam at Lake Keepit State Park.

It was a very cold night at Lake Keepit, with a minimum of around 0C.

Day 54 – 20th May – Lake Keepit to Warwick – 476 Km

We had not previously driven the length of Fossickers’ Way so this was a good chance to do so. The track or the day took us through Manilla, Barraba, Warialda, Texas, Inglewood and Warwick.

A slight mishap occurred as we passed through Manilla. The bridge over the Namoi River is narrow. Four vehicles were coming in the opposite direction as we drove onto the bridge. Number three vehicle was a little too close to the centre line of the roadway and hit and destroyed our right hand towing mirror with a frame to hold a towing mirror on his vehicle. So the left hand mirror had to be moved to the right hand side and we finished the trip with only one mirror.

A blue sky welcome to Queensland.

A blue sky welcome to Queensland.

We had started the day under cloudy skies but as we approached the Queensland border the cloud ended in a straight line across the sky and beyond this was clear blue. But it still wasn’t warm. The cold weather is following us, or perhaps it has come on ahead.

Day 55 – 21st May – Warwick to Home – 239 KM

There was frost on the ground in the caravan park at Warwick. The park manager had remarked, as we booked in the previous evening, that he had lit his fire the day before and did not expect to let it go out until September.

We avoided Cunningham Gap on the Cunningham Highway to miss the road works that are still under way repairing damage caused by the deluge over the area earlier in the year. We took the Clifton to Gatton Road instead. This is a fairly narrow road but is a pleasant drive through a gorge and then through farm lands culminating with the small crops of the fertile Lockyer Valley.

We arrived home at about 11.30 am to commence the inevitable task of unpacking the van and getting back into the routine of daily life.

Ruth has an appointment with the doctor tomorrow morning so we will keep that and see where it leads.

Footnote: The doctor prescribed physiotherapy. The first treatment occurred this afternoon