Visiting Relatives and Alpine New South Wales

Those of you who have followed our travels will be aware that we give a high priority to keeping in touch with family and have done so more frequently as we have all aged. We have seen this as a responsibility partly, at least, brought about by our frequent moves, particularly the move to Brisbane about forty years ago.

Increasing age does not make travelling any easier. We had suggested to my two remaining siblings that Victoria was a long way from Brisbane and that they might make the task easier for us by meeting us half way, or at least some of the way. Earlier this year they called us on the offer. I am always on for a trip to the alpine regions outside of the snow season so we agreed that meeting at Jindabyne in the Snowy Mountains was a suitable compromise. The southern most relatives to visit on this trip live at Bowral in the Southern Highlands of New South Wales. Not that much further to Jindabyne.

But it was a close-run thing with the snow season. A week after we visited, areas around Thredbo, not far from Jindabyne, had snow.

Poplars by the highway south of Glen Innes

We chose the New England Highway as our route to Newcastle where our first call was to be made. A drive through the Granite Belt and New England areas is not to be missed in Autumn. The colours did not disappoint but our opportunities to see them did. We were delayed for an hour just south of Wallangarra by a two-vehicle collision that blocked the highway for over an hour. Darkness accompanied our arrival at Armidale for the night and low cloud and drizzle greeted us next morning for our drive to Newcastle.

Autumn colour opposite our motel in Armidale.

The next morning, Friday, we first called on sister-in-law Marjorie in her retirement home that overlooks Lake Macquarie. We then moved on to call on Ruth’s sister Judy and Alan her husband at West Wallsend. Finally, after a call to brother Ivan’s newly completed grave at Ryhope cemetery, we completed our journey to our daughter’s unit in Erskineville, through Sydney Friday afternoon peak hour traffic.

Visiting Rainbow Lorikeet on Briony’s sixth floor balcony rail.
Newtown street scene. I don’t know why the young lady was sitting there.
Lots of quality graffiti artwork. It adds to the ambiance.

We spent a quiet morning on Saturday. In the afternoon I walked to near-by Newtown to do some street photography. On Sunday morning Briony accompanied us to brunch at Mount Annan Botanic Gardens Café where we met Ruth’s sister Dorothy and her family. We returned via Costco at Casula for some bulk shopping. Later in the afternoon I spent a couple of hours photographing birds and humans at Sydney Park which offers wetlands and an elevated viewing position overlooking that part of Sydney. The park is right across the street from Briony’s unit.

View from the top of the hill in Sydney Park. Looking towards Redfern.
An Australian Darter at the Sydney Park wetlands.
Family group at brunch at Mount Annan.

An 8.00 AM departure saw us at Ruth’s younger brother’s home at Bowral for a coffee stop. Wallace is in advanced stages of a wasting disease that has robbed him of movement and speech but not mental capacity. But he never complains and communicates to the best of his ability. Ruth is particularly close to his wife and her sister-in-law Ginny. The visit was both a sad and happy time.

Bernard and Aileen had arrived at the caravan park at Jindabyne where our cabins were located when we checked in. So we had a bit of a chat over a cup of tea and went out to dinner. We were at Jindabyne for three nights. We dined at three different eating establishments on the three nights and spent the days seeing the sites.

The Snowy River near to its source.

On Tuesday we drove to Charlotte Pass, diverting to visit the Guthega power station and follow the Snowy River until we turned into a gravel road that took us back to Kosciuszko Road at Smiggin Holes.

Charlotte Pass viewed from the lookout above the resort.

The car park at the lookout above Charlotte Pass village was busy but we grabbed a parking spot for long enough to walk the board walk to the lookout that gives such a great view of the Kosciuszko range, including Kosciuszko’s peak and the Snowy River making its way through the valley at is feet, to the dams that interrupt is path to the ocean at Marlo in Victoria. This view always makes me want to don my hiking shoes and take off into the mountains. Instead, we drove to the village for a late morning coffee, or in Bernard’s case, a cup of tea.

The pipeline leading to Guthega power station.
Jindabyne from the Mount Kosciuszko Road.
Jindabyne Dam that holds back the waters of Lake Jindabyne on the Snowy River.

After a stop for photographs of Lake Jindabyne and the town we visited the dam that holds back the waters of the lake. Water levels are quite high as we could see as we drove over the road the previous day. The dam serves as a platform for the main road into Jindabyne and the Snowy Mountains.

On Wednesday we drove towards Thredbo on the Alpine Way, first stopping for a look at Crackenback Resort. What a beautiful place, with attractive accommodation huddled around the lake. A Eurasian Coot completed the picture as it coasted across the calm waters, creating its own ripples.

Reflections of Crackenback Resort on Lake Crackenback.

Before calling at Thredbo, we drove on to The Pilot Lookout, Dead Horse Gap and the Cascades on Dead Horse Creek. Reports have it that wild brumbies can be seen at Dead Horse Gap, although a place so named seems an unlikely place for brumbies to gather. The only thing of note was a sign advising that a section of the park was closed for vermin eradication. Perhaps the brumbies had been warned, although the sign did say that they were excluded from the cull.

The Cascades on the Dead Horse Gap Creek near the junction with Thredbo River.
The Thredbo River near the alpine resort town of Thredbo.

We drove into Thredbo but found it to be largely inaccessible due to tourists and tradesman who had got there before we did and areas barricaded off by witches’ hats by the workers. We had intended to ride the tourist chair lift that takes visitors to the main skiing area and the track to Kosciusko but we could not park close enough to the lifts to make that an achievable objective.

We hadn’t even managed to get ourselves a cup of coffee, so we returned to our units for a soup and toast lunch and a cup of coffee. It was good soup weather, although better than we expected. Both touring days provided brilliant blue skies and temperatures in the low twenties. Nights were cold, well below 10C.

The view towards Thredbo from Dead Horse Gap on the Alpine Way.

On Thursday 27th April we departed Jindabyne, Aileen and Bernard for a few days at Merimbula and we to return home but by an indirect route. We had enjoyed our few days together and departed resolved to repeat the exercise before too long.

The western end of Lake Eucumbene at Providence Portal.

Ruth and I drove back to the road to the Snowy Mountains Highway and Tumut. We drove through relocated Adaminaby and stopped in at Providence Portal where water from elsewhere in the mountains runs into the western extremity of Lake Eucumbene. From there we paused for a comfort stop at deserted Kiandra, then proceeding through Tumut to Gundagai, where we stopped for lunch.

Tumut is the location of much of the work on Snowy Hydro II but we saw little activity, most of which was off the beaten track or underground.

Cowra sunset.

We spent Thursday night at Cowra, proceeding through Blayney, Bathurst and Lithgow and along the Bells Line of Road to Mount Tomah to visit the Blue Mountains Botanic Gardens. Two previous attempts to visit had been frustrated by fog and rain. The wait was worth while. The garden is actually a series of small gardens comprised of mostly trees and shrubs with fountains and rockeries with waterfalls and pools. There is an excellent visitor centre with a very handy café.

Autumn in Mount Tomah gardens.
Fountain Terrace, viewed through the archway at Mount Tomah.

We journeyed on through Kurrajong, Richmond and Windsor to Vineyard where we spent the night at a large hotel with an attendant motel. A very nice seafood dinner ensued.

A damp morning followed for our drive along the Putty Road to Singleton. The Grey Gum Café at Putty normally teams with motor bikes on weekends but motor bike riders had been discouraged or delayed by the wet. We shared the establishment for coffee with a couple of motorists and a solitary motor bike rider.

Our overnight objective was Tamworth with a side trip to Nundle. Nundle is one of those towns to which signposts point as you drive by down the main road. We knew of it from our regular use of the New England Highway and my transport days involvement in the New England area. More recently, for some unknown reason it had started popping up on my Facebook news feed.

Nundle is a small and attractive farming community with the addition of a historic woollen mill, one of the last operating in Australia. The mill is still owned and operated by its original founding family who started it over a century ago. The brilliant Autumn foliage really lifted the town on what was by then a very dull afternoon.

With the day drawing in we drove up to Hanging Rock Lookout with rain threatening to return. To be able to see the hanging aspects of the rock clearly required a different vantage point but the lookout did provide great views of the surrounding mountains.

Entrance to the Nundle Woollen Mill.
Part of the manufacturing equipment at Nundle Woollen Mill.
Autumn colour in the park at Nundle.

On our drive to Tamworth, we passed Chaffey Dam on the Peel River, of interest to me because of my involvement in the transport of materials to the sight during its construction.

Rain had returned by the time we reached our Tamworth motel and the forecasts made it clear that the precipitation would continue next day. We had planned to visit a couple of other places connected with my earlier association with the area but when we realised that we could still cancel our Inverell motel we decided to do so and head home a day earlier.

More New England colour near Glen Innes NSW.

We departed Tamworth with the clouds well below the surrounding mountains. Rain and drizzle continued but by the time that we stopped at Glen Innis for coffee the temperature was up to 10C. By lunch time at Warwick it had reached 15C. Once we had crossed the Great Dividing Range it increased further. We arrived home on rather a balmy evening, reminding us of one of the reasons that we live here.

So, another successful trip of around 3,500 kilometres completed with most objectives achieved. We don’t have any other travel plans currently although we will probably do something else in the near future. What ever it is we will keep you informed.

Sydney 2017 and the “Big Birthday Bash”

We have just returned from a 20 day excursion to Sydney. A visit to Sydney for daughter Briony’s birthday celebrations (she likes to refer to it as her “f” birthday) had been intended as the first part of a rather longer trip, but circumstance necessitated a return to Brisbane for a few days. We hope to set off again around the middle of March, unless something else happens to derail the plan.

The foot bridge near the mouth of South West Rocks Creek

We left Brisbane on 27th January for Maclean, on the Clarence River, where we paused for a night to call on Ruth’s youngest sister Kathy and her husband Barry, who live in the area. We then had a couple of days set aside for the Gloucester and Barrington area but high inland temperatures persuaded us that it was much smarter to stay on the coast.

The result was two nights at South

The same bridge with the tide out

West Rocks, which increased to four nights when we saw how hot it was to be at our intended next destination, just to the north of Newcastle. So we opted for temperatures in the low 30s instead of the low 40s. We used the time to enjoy sea breezes, check out South West Rocks and the adjacent area of Trial Bay. We drove out to Smokey Cape where I climbed up to the lighthouse to take in and photograph the 360 degree views.

Dredging at the mouth of South West Rocks Creek

The actual South West Rocks at South West Rocks. The town’s name was derived from the instruction giver to early ships captains to “Anchor with the rocks to the south west”.

View over Trial Bay to the old prison on the point

The beach side caravan park. We were at a different park.

The old Trial Bay Goal, formally the home of convicts.

Smokey Cape lighthouse

Secluded bays to the north of the lighthouse are accessed mostly by walking tracks.

The view to the south of the lighthouse towards Hat Head

We spent the next evening parked in my Brother Ivan’s driveway at Woodberry while we enjoyed hospitality provided by Ivan and Marjorie, his wife. Next day, a lunch stop at West Wallsend allowed us to spend time with Ruth’s Sister Judy and husband Alan and one of Ruth’s cousins and husband. Then it was on to Sydney to our space at the Lane Cove River Tourist Park on the edge of the Lane Cove National Park, at suburban Macquarie Park.

Bennelong Restaurant at the Sydney Opera House

All this brought us to the day. February 3rd is Briony’s birthday. Don’t tell her that I told you, but counting this one, she has had 40 of them. This was a BIG one.

We made our way to Briony’s Erskineville unit, arriving just before lunch. With Briony and her house guest Tiani, over from Perth for the celebrations, we made our way into Sydney for a delightful lunch at the Bennelong Restaurant at the Sydney Opera House. Excellent food and service, outstanding views and the reason that we were there, made it an event to remember.

We had great views of a cruise liner from the restaurant.

Time then for a bit of a rest while the guest of honor visited the hair dresser and then it was time for the main event. Briony had booked an upstairs room at the Rose of Australia Hotel at Erskineville. The event was a cocktail party with finger food. The 75 guests, about 20 of whom travelled from Brisbane for the occasion, were adequately provided with both food and drink. For us it was an evening of meeting friends whose names we knew from Briony’s interaction with them on Facebook and renewing some old acquaintances. We met some of Briony’s Sydney friends for the first time.

The general restaurant and bar area at the Opera House.

The following day Briony had arranged for bare foot bowls and lunch at the Erskineville Bowls Club but the day was hot and only the hardy saw the game to its conclusion. I retired to the shade and a long cool drink after bowling only two ends. Ruth had opted to be a spectator.

 

 

The lighthouse on Barrenjoey Headland at the northern end of Palm Beach.

We then had two quite hot days to get through before we left Sydney to go further south. The first we split between lunch at a local shopping mall and a drive to Palm Beach. The air-conditioning in the car was almost as good as the cool of the shopping mall but had the additional advantage of the fantastic views of and from Sydney’s northern beaches.

Luxury homes overlooking Palm Beach

Our ferry at the Brooklyn ferry terminal.

On the second hot day, the Monday, we had booked a cruise with the Riverboat Mailman on the Hawkesbury River. An air-conditioned passenger catamaran fulfils the twin functions of providing an informative and scenic tour of part of the river north of Brooklyn and delivering the mail to a number of small riverside communities.

Naturally decorative rocks on the shore of Long Island Nature Reserve near Brooklyn

The tour lasts for three hours, includes morning tea and lunch and includes delivery and collection of mail to the small river communities whose only access to the outside world is by the river. Mario, the skipper, provided an interesting and at times humorous commentary about the history of the river and life upon its banks. The passage of the boat provided cooling breezes that supplemented the AC and made life on the upper deck tolerable, but only for short periods. The mercury was at around 38 Celsius.

The road bridges over the Hawkesbury near Brooklyn. The new highway bridge is on the left.

A small community on the river

A real estate investment opportunity at Marlow, the most distant mail drop of the day.

A derelict oyster wharf near the site of the former Sheather’s Wharf.

When the cruise finished at 1.00 pm we still had half of a hot day to deal with, so we went in search of Sheather’s Wharf. We had seen a photo in our local pharmacy’s calendar of this jetty. Not everyone has a wharf in the family. Naturally we wanted to see it. Alas, it is no more but appears to have been demolished relatively recently to make way for a marina and restaurant. I photographed its poor relation near by to give you the idea. If you want to see the real thing simply Google “Sheather’s Wharf” and you will see it in all its splendour. If I were to reproduce the photo here I would probably be breaching someones copyright.

Fog obscuring the view near Patonga.

Because I had never been there before, we drove on to Patonga. This small hamlet is located on a beach on the northern shore of the Hawkesbury. Glimpses of Barrenjoey Headland are to be had from the right spot. A passenger ferry service links the town to Palm Beach.

The surprise to me of the area was the thick banks of fog rolling in on such a hot day. There was not much wind so the fog was rolling in slowly, obscuring the scenery as it rolled.

Point Perpendicular would you believe? It is located just north of Kiama.

The plan had been to move on to Camden for three nights before heading home, but the weather intervened again. Temperatures in the low 40s were predicted for the days that we were to head back north so, as a compromise, we decided to stay on the coast and booked six nights at Shellharbour, just south of Wollongong.

 

Kiama harbour and headland

So on Tuesday we drove to Shellharbour. After packing up in drizzling rain we drove through a thunder storm as we crossed Sydney’s near western suburbs and then, at the top of the range before descending to Wollongong, we struck fog so thick that the road side warning signs instructed us to turn on our hazard lights. That has never happened to us before. It was a bit spooky driving down a very steep gradient with no visibility and have sets of flashing lights coming out of the fog behind us and disappearing again into it ahead of us. Thankfully we were on a divided highway.

The view from the Shellharbour Caravan Park.

The caravan park at Shellharbour is on a headland and rather exposed. On Tuesday evening a rain cell made its way up the coast from the south and tipped torrents of rain onto us for about three hours. There were reports of flash flooding next morning but we didn’t see any excess water as we made our way to Bowral.

Ruth’s youngest brother Wallace and his wife Ginny have been residents of Bowral for many years. We have visited them many times before but never via the Macquarie Pass. Bowral has an altitude of 680 metres while Shellharbour is at about 10 meters, so it is a sharp ascent. Part way up, the rain started again and the fog came down. No divided highway today but the winding road was mercifully quiet.

We spent a pleasant day with Wall and Ginny and many mutual experiences were relived. We than took ourselves off to visit Ruth’s younger half-sister Dorothy and her husband Peter, where we enjoyed dinner and the company of their two daughters and one boyfriend and spent the night in a comfortable air-conditioned room.

The Brackens are a working family so it was an early start to be out of their way as they commenced their day. Our next call was with retired friends who live in a retirement complex on the northern beaches of Wollongong. Marion is a friend from Ruth’s childhood. I have known her and Cliff, her husband, since their marriage. They stayed with us on their honeymoon trip to Tasmania all those years ago, when we lived in suburban Melbourne. Again much reminiscing! How good those old times were! That’s how we remember them, anyway.

Hampden Bridge in the Kangaroo Valley, inland from Kiama.

We now were faced with a hot Friday and weekend, before we made our way home. Friday was spent partly shopping, partly sitting in the sea breeze and the rest in the relative comfort of the caravan. On Sunday we opted for the AC in the car again and went for a drive. First to Kiama and then inland, over the coastal range to Kangaroo Valley and then up the escarpment to Fitzroy Falls. The walk to the falls, although short was warm, with the temperature around 38. I walked on another 800 meters to another

Fitzroy Falls up close …

viewing point for the falls and wondered part way if that was a wise move, but I made it back without harm.

We lunched and then returned down the mountain by a different road, calling in to an excellent lookout that provided views over the coastal plain around Kiama before returning to the van via the rather attractive rural town of

… and from a vantage point gained by a hot 500 meter walk in 38 degrees.

Jamberoo, with its streets lined with flowering trees and its quaint brick churches complete with square battlement topped steeples.

 

 

 

 

A view over the coastal plane near Kiama.

Formally a church, this historic building is now a restaurant.

This cliff foot Sea Cliff Bridge spans the breakers beneath.

The weather cooled on Sunday and was much more pleasant. Initially we drove north along the coast to Stanwell Park, past the many historic coal mining towns and over that stretch of highway built out over the ocean around the foot of the cliffs. We did that drive from both directions with the action video camera in operation. The results are attached for you to see.

Busy Manly Beach

From Stanwell Park we drove up to Helensburgh, parked the car and caught the train to Sydney. Circumstance had prevented us from going afloat on Sydney Harbour and we had never before travelled into the city from the south by train. The tip took an hour to Circular Quay where we caught the ferry to Manly.

Manly was a popular place that day. The crowd on the ferry was reminiscent of a morning commute. But the sun was out and so were the pleasure craft. Having sailed my own yacht on Sydney Harbour I derive much pleasure from watching the variety of craft on its waters.

Another cruise liner at the Circular Quay passenger terminal.

The beach was busy with a couple of surf related activities under way which partly explained the crowds. We found a vacant table on the footpath at a restaurant within view of the beach and within reach of the sea breeze, where we dined on good old Sydney sea food.

Lunch over, we made our way back by ferry and  at Circular Quay, took a walk to see the cruise ship “Voyager of the Seas” that was in at the adjacent cruise liner birth. Then we were back on the train to Helensburgh.

The south coast of NSW near Wollongong as viewed from Sublime Point.

On the way back to Shellharbour we called in at Sublime Point for that stunning view of Wollongong and travelled down Bulli Pass to remind ourselves why we do not use that road when towing the caravan.

On Monday morning we were homeward bound! We spent Monday night with my Brother near Newcastle to make up for the night that we had missed on the way south.

Although I had lived in the area in my early years I had never been on what was the Old Pacific Highway that ran through Gloucester and Krambach to Taree. These days, it is called The Buckets Way. So this time we did the detour. Much of the road needs maintenance but parts have been rebuilt. It is quite a pretty drive.

Two more nights spent one each at Old Bar, near Taree, and Ballina and we were home again, just before lunch on Thursday.

Here is the video of the drive along the Sea Cliff Bridge near Wollongong.

A Drive Along the Sea Cliff Bridge