Final Highlights

 

Lovely sunset. We had hardly seen a cloud in six weeks

Lovely sunset. We had hardly seen a cloud in six weeks

The caravan park south of Sarina, at which we stayed for four nights, is the Cape Palmerston Holiday Park. It is named for its proximity to Cape Palmerston and the Cape Palmerston National Park. The National Park is just a few kilometres to the north.

We were not the first on the beach that day

We were not the first on the beach that day

After vegetating for a day, we decided some activity was in order, so we packed a picnic lunch and headed off for the National Park. The initial road was of good quality but once past the park boundary it rapidly deteriorated. There was no improvement until we reached the beach, after which, for the next 8 km, we were on a veritable highway. The ramp to the beach was solid gravel and the beach was wide and flat with only a few soft places. The sky was near to cloudless and a slight breeze blew. And we had it all to ourselves.

The road emerged from the bush to present this view

The road emerged from the bush to present this view

The satin ride was short lived. Another gravel ramp lead us to a 4wd track that has probably not seen a piece of maintenance equipment since the mounds were made to stop rain water washing the road away. We made our way carefully over the heavily rutted track, taking considerable pains to place the wheels so as to minimise tyre damage and to not scrape any of the components under the car on high spots on the road. There is good reason for classifying these roads as high clearance only.

Lots of space on this beach

Lots of space on this beach

The road winds up from the beach, over higher country with broad views of ocean and islands and back to the beach again at the site of the first camping area. This idyllic spot is only a clear grassed area, its extent marked by scrub on three sides and a low single rail fence along the beach. But it has its own crescent beach and even a launching ramp over the beach, in case you brought your own boat. And it has a toilet.

There was some time to go before lunch could respectably be eaten so we decided to press on further north towards Cape Palmerston. The track did not improve and we were most conscious that every torturous meter forward meant an extra torturous meter back. After about another

Our lunch time view

Our lunch time view

kilometer we reached a fork in the road that was not on the map. Rather than chase wild geese we returned to the camping area and enjoyed our lunch of fresh prawn sandwiches with hot coffee. A prawn farm is located next door to the caravan park which enables management to offer large king prawns to their guests at attractive prices. Yum!

Ready ti drive down the beach

Ready ti drive down the beach

Lunch over, we made our way back the way we had come, down the rough track and along the beach. The tide was well down by now.  The tidal range was about 5 meters so 3 hours of ebb tide took the water’s edge a long way down the flat beach.

There was still quite a bit of the day left so we drove through the collection of sea side houses know as Greenhill to see what was there. There were only houses. There is no commercial activity at all. We then retraced our steps a little to drive to Notch Point, the northern protrusion on a promontory that forms the northern extent of a shallow sandy bay not far south of the caravan park.

I think this is called getting away from it all

I think this is called getting away from it all

We passed sugar cane fields with the harvest in full swing and some operating aquaculture ventures, probably prawns, and a new facility under construction, before making our way along a rough sandy track to a camping area, totally devoid of creature comforts, but a place of great natural beauty. And probably great fishing as well because fishing is the attraction, not the scenery.

You won't be shot here but perhaps you could be taken by a croc

You won’t be shot here but perhaps you could be taken by a croc

But dangerous territory, apparently! To the side of the road towards the water were signs warning of crocodiles and on the landward side, inside a fence that followed the road, signs warning trespassers that they would be prosecuted and their dogs shot.

The view to the south across the bay

The view to the south across the bay

Despite these warnings there were the expected tents and camper trailers and some surprisingly large caravans that would have required considerable patience to tow along such a track. On our way out we met a man on foot. We chatted and found that he was another large caravan owner determining if he could get his van in. Someone back along the road somewhere had told him that it was not a place to be missed. His car and van were blocking the road so we “went bush”, as you do under such circumstances, to get around him.

Our next move was to Gladstone to visit Beautiful Betsy. Who, I hear you say?

We had an audience for morning tea

We had an audience for morning tea

Beautiful Betsy was a USA Liberator bomber that went missing in February 1945 on a flight from Darwin to Brisbane. She was discovered 49 years later, crashed, on the western end of Kroombit Tops, south west of Gladstone. The crash site is now in the Kroombit Tops National Park in a special remembrance area dedicated to the memory of the eight crew who perished with her. She was named for the wife of her first pilot.

Looking over the plateau to Kroombit Tops

Looking over the plateau to Kroombit Tops

Kroombit Tops is worth a visit, even without Betsy. It rises almost one thousand metres above the coastal plain and provides great views of the coast and the Boyne Valley from the viewing platform on its eastern side. The road from Calliope is categorised as suitable for conventional vehicles. The road up the escarpment is steep and winding but it is sealed. For most of

Ruth on the viewing platform enjoying the view

Ruth on the viewing platform enjoying the view

the distance to the steep bit the road is good gravel. From the National Park boundary the surface is fair but would need care in a small vehicle.

 

 

 

Part of the view from the lookout

Part of the view from the lookout

The altitude makes for a different climate to that on the coast, with rain forest to the east and dry bush country to the west. Betsy came down on a moderately timbered ridge, only requiring about another

The introductory plaque at the start of the walk

The introductory plaque at the start of the walk

100 metres of altitude to clear it all together. Aviation experts believe that the aircraft was off course and too low. In the predawn light the crew saw the hills in their path, increased power and tried to climb but pancaked into the hillside due to momentum that carried the plane forward before it started to climb.

Betsy was not armed so there was no explosion nor was there a fire. The plane disintegrated on impact.

An engine where it came to rest

An engine where it came to rest

The four engines broke free and kept going, rolling up the hillside until they stopped near the top. It is thought that all crew died on impact.

Beautifully Betsy had seen service in the Pacific where, during hostilities, the air frame became stressed to the point that it was no longer reliable as a bomber. But it was suitable for lighter duties and, stripped of its armaments was used to fly in more palatable food supplies than the standard fare known to USA airmen as “the Darwin diet”. Its cargo was as diverse as fresh fruit, ice cream and live chickens.

Part of the fuselage and wing

Part of the fuselage and wing

The doomed aircraft and crew

The doomed aircraft and crew

The crash site is on a four wheel drive track that appears to have been pushed through by a bulldozer and then left to fend for itself. Parts are quite steep and rough with exposed boulders and washouts. But the crash site is well kept with a constructed path. Informative plaques have been placed by the path. This arrangement allows visitors to move through the site in an orderly way and to understand what they are seeing.

The view towards Gladstone from the top of the range

The view towards Gladstone from the top of the range

Only one other couple was there, moving through the site ahead of us. It was a somber experience, probably a bit more so following recent events involving a passenger aircraft in Europe. One passenger on the aircraft, the remnants of which we were viewing, was on his way to Brisbane to be married. Another was to have been his best man.

Our intention had been to follow the four wheel drive track through the full loop. It becomes a one way track from the turn to the crash site and we soon found out why. After about 200 metres a sign said, “Four Wheel Drive Only. Steep Rocky Decent”. And they were not joking. As far as we knew we were the last people that day in what was a remote area, so we erred on the side of caution and returned by the way we had come.

An Inland Detour

When we passed through Charters Towers on our way to Townsville we had decided to return to have a closer look at the town and then to journey down the Gregory Developmental Road to Clermont before turning east to again join the Bruce Highway to travel home.

Charters Towers viewed from Tower Hill over mining scared ground

Charters Towers viewed from Tower Hill over mining scared ground

We had spent a couple of single nights in Charters Towers but had not really looked around. This visit was for two nights. The Charters Towers Tourist Park, where we stayed, allows the Charters Towers Lions Club to run fund raising dinners in the camp kitchen. Fifteen dollars buys a three course meal. We knew the format from last time, a meal and a brief talk on the area.

One of the main streets lined with historic buildings

One of the main streets lined with historic buildings

The talk provided a background for our sightseeing the next day. Charters Towers was already an established cattle town when gold was discovered in the 1880s. The gold was of high quality and quickly created great wealth. Mining companies sprang up in such numbers that the town opened its own stock exchange which operated in conjunction with the London stock exchange. But the gold rush ended and the town started to wind down. The current population is around 10,000. At its peak the town had 40,000 residents.

Another classic street scape

Another classic streetscape

Charters Towers also has a proud history of participation in WWII. American bombers were based there and it was one of two bases in Queensland from which bombers flew to attack Japanese war ships during the Battle of the Coral Sea. In more recent times education has added to the wealth of the town. It is the location of a number of prestigious colleges.

An impressive mural adorns a wall of a prominent building

An impressive mural adorns a wall of a prominent building

The town has always been aware of its history and has turned it to good account. Preservation of original buildings has always been important, so to walk down the street today is to experience many of the same sensations as visitors of days now long gone. We had lunch at a cafe in the arcade of the original stock exchange. Just along the street the Town Hall has an extensive display of war time photos and almost directly opposite much of the history of the town has been recorded on a huge mural on the wall of a large building.

Venus Gold Battery

Venus Gold Battery

We visited the Venus Gold Battery before driving to the summit of Towers Hill Lookout where a substantial structure has been built to commemorate and record much of the mining history. The observation point is appropriately sighted above the many shafts from which the city’s golden wealth was extracted.

We lunched at a cafe in the historic arcade of the old stock exchange building

We lunched at a cafe in the historic arcade of the old stock exchange building

Charters Towers is located at the junction of the Flinders Highway and the Gregory Developmental Road, which goes south via Clermont and Emerald to Springsure and north west to The Lynd Junction where it intersects with the Kennedy Developmental Road. We had not previously travelled this road so our journey south broke new ground.

The road house at Belyando Crossing

The road house at Belyando Crossing

The distance to Clermont, our destination for that day, is about 350 km. Until you reach the coal mines near Clermont the only sign of habitation on the entire journey, apart from some cattle stations, is the roadhouse at Belyando Crossing where the highway crosses the Belyando River. It was a hive of activity. Everyone seems to stop there. The most common vehicles on the road were cars with Victorian number plates towing large caravans. Ruth stopped counting after her count reached 100 vans.

Clermont is another of those agricultural and mining towns. It is an old town, with commercial buildings dotted around its streets but with lots of mining vehicles, various makes of four wheel drives with the distinctive yellow stripe along the side.

The prominent Woolfang Peak beside the Peak Downs Highway

The prominent Woolfang Peak beside the Peak Downs Highway

Out route next day took us along the Peak Downs Highway past a succession of coal mines and near to the coal mining town of Moranbah. After passing the Clermont mine there is an area of agricultural and grazing properties before the mines start again. Interest is maintained through this area by a succession of unique mountain peaks of which Woolfang Peak is the most dramatic. I wondered if the peaks had anything to do with the name of the highway.

An appropriate welcome to Moranbah

An appropriate welcome to Moranbah

During my transport industry days I was a regular visitor to Moranbah as, for a time, it was part of my area of responsibility. Ruth had never been there, so we drove the 13 km in from the highway to see how things had changed. McDonald’s is there now and the town is bigger but the central business district looked substantially unchanged. The surprise was the airport. It is a much larger structure with large parking areas and signs directing users to drop off points and arrival and departure points. It was a reminder of the extent to which fly-in-fly-out staffing of coal mines has taken over.

The tranquility of the Cape Palmerston Caravan Park

The tranquility of the Cape Palmerston Caravan Park

The Peak Downs Highway goes to Mackay but we left it east of Moranbah and followed the coal railway towards Sarina where it briefly joins the main north line before diverging to the east to the bulk coal loading terminals at Hay Point and Dalrymple Bay. Our destination was a caravan park near the hamlet of Greenhill on the coast just south of Sarina.

Mountains and Waterfalls

Townsville has a wonderful mountain. It is called Castle Hill. Its battlements tower over the Central Business District with the scenic Strand running along its eastern foundations.

Magnetic Island offshore from Townsville's beach side suburbs

Magnetic Island offshore from Townsville’s beach side suburbs

Great views are to be enjoyed from this vantage point that sweep from Magnetic Island to the east, to the sprawling western suburbs and to coastal plains and mountains to north and south. To the south west stands Townsville’s other viewing platform Mount Stuart, with the regimented neatness of the Army’s Lavarack Barracks at its feet.

Hill side homes with views over Magnetic Island

Hill side homes with views over Magnetic Island

It took us two attempts to reach the summit of Castle Hill. The first attempt was thwarted by the phone call that confirmed our appointment with WO Hema at the military museum. We needed to find a place to turn around on the narrow and steep road to return to earth to keep our appointment. We only found turning space a couple of hundred meters from the top.

 

Our second attempt was later in the day, as sunset was approaching. We then discovered the extent to which residents of Townsville use this rocky elevation for exercise. The participants in this activity are mostly young and female but the slim black tighted majority

Misting station at the summit of Castle Hill

Misting station at the summit of Castle Hill

are interspersed with the not so slim, older men with looks of grim determination on their faces, the odd younger male on a bicycle. Young mothers with children in pushers were making the climb, some accompanied by young children on foot.

The Council has installed what could best be described as a misting booth at the summit so that hot climbers can cool themselves

Climbers resting as they wait for the setting of the sun

Climbers resting as they wait for the setting of the sun

at the end of the climb. It is not greatly used on a winter afternoon but probably very popular in hotter weather. Some climbers wait to get their breath back, in tranquil solitude or small groups, before starting down again. Others occupy one of the many vantage points to watch the sunset.

Our most northern point on the coast this trip was Ingham. We stayed for three nights so that we

Ingham's Tyto wetlands are worth a visit

Ingham’s Tyto wetlands are worth a visit

had time to explore the mountains of The Great Dividing Range. This spine that runs the length of our east coast is never far inland in North Queensland. But first we used the afternoon of our arrival to take the drive to Lucinda, a small town adjacent to the southern tip of Hinchinbrook Island, to see the six kilometer long bulk sugar loading jetty.

The six kilometre jetty seems to almost reach the horizon

The six kilometre jetty seems to almost reach the horizon

It was a beautiful afternoon, warm with a light breeze. It is not possible to walk along the jetty, which is really a huge conveyor belt with a maintenance road on top, but we walked around the adjoining park, stopping to talk to other strollers or to watch workers replacing the roof of one of the bulk sugar terminal

Boats at anchor at Dungeness

Boats at anchor at Dungeness

buildings. After driving the short distance to the neighboring town of Dungeness we refreshed ourselves with a restoring iced coffee as we enjoyed the view of the rugged peaks of Hinchinbrook.

The main reason for our visit to the area, apart from our search for warmth, was to visit Wallaman Falls. For a water fall to be worth visiting, you need water. Last time we were in the area, dry weather had reduced to flow over the falls to little more than a trickle. Current flows are sufficient for a good show.

The full view of Wallaman Falls

The full view of Wallaman Falls

Wallaman Falls, at a straight drop of about 230 meters, is the longest drop in Queensland. To get there you drive about 50 km west of Ingham, park in the area provided, then walk about 100 meters to the viewing platforms and there are the falls in all their magnificence.

The water tumbles over the edge of a precipice in a plunge that is unimpeded until it creates a continuous explosion of water on the rocks of the continuation of the stream into which it falls. Nature has dictated that the falls face about north east so are directly lit by sunlight for most of the day. The rays of the sun create rainbows in the spray. The rainbows move up and down the column of water, changing with the position of both sun and viewer. At times, from a particular position you can watch two rainbows move together to become one.

The gorge down stream from Wallaman Falls

The gorge down stream from Wallaman Falls

Those with much more energy than I possess can descend by a steep but well formed path to the foot of the falls and no doubt, from that changed vantage point, can view more rainbows in the spray. But the return journey is a kilometer multiplied by two. That requires a lot of energy.

The first 30 km of the drive is through cane fields and grazing

The rainbow in the spray

The rainbow in the spray

country. The final 20 km is up the mountain. The road is a good width, but steep and winding for most of the way. Only about 5 km remains unsealed and roadwork in the area suggest that this will soon be fixed.

On our way home we encountered the unexpected! We had slowed as we approached a creek crossing because of the rough surface and noticed that an approaching vehicle had pulled to our side of the road and stopped. So we stopped too. And there, walking casually along the road towards us was a fully grown Cassowary. It was in no hurry and walked within a meter of my open window. Then a third car approached, in a hurry, and the bird was gone, frightened back into the scrub.

A sample of the narrow Mt Spec Road

A sample of the narrow Mt Spec Road

The following day we travelled about 40 km south on the Bruce Highway and drove up the Paluma Range to the mountain top town of Paluma and on a further 12 km to the Paluma Dam. We had tried to do this a couple of years ago but were thwarted by cloud over the mountain. About a kilometer from the top we had encountered thick fog. This time the sky was blue, without a cloud in sight.

The view from near Paluma

The view from near Paluma

The scenery is not of the standard of the Wallaman Falls drive but the lookout at Paluma provides sweeping views of the coast and off lying Islands, of which Palm Island is the most dominant.

Access is via Mt. Spec Road, which is interesting in its own right. Built during the depression, the construction was accomplished mainly by manpower with little mechanical assistance. The workforce was substantial, probably because men were more readily available than machines. The road climbs and twists its way to the summit providing tempting glances of the view to be seen from the lookout at the top.

Below the bridge over Little Crystal Creek

Below the bridge over Little Crystal Creek

Certainly the most charming spot on the road is the bridge that crosses Little Crystal Creek. It is a single arch structure of concrete but beautifully faced with stone in the manner of so many historic bridges in Australia. But if you simply drive over it you miss the best. For where it spans the creek waterfalls tumble into rock pools that make great swimming holes on warm days. It is a magic place. The amenities block at the picnic area even has a change room.

At the top of Birthday Falls

At the top of Birthday Falls

The drive to the dam is through rain forest and over mountain ridges on a narrow gravel road. About halfway between the town and dam a clearing in the bush provides parking for those who go on the 500 meter walk to the top of the Birthday Falls and perhaps the 500 meter scramble to the bottom. We chose the former and while the view from the top is probably not as good as from the bottom you still get the idea of a stream of water plunging into a valley far below.

The waters of Paluma Dam

The waters of Paluma Dam

The dam is part of Townsville’s water supply but is also a favorite camp site for locals. We met a surprising succession of vehicles as we returned down the range. Paluma is probably something of a weekend retreat for Townsvillians and it was Saturday afternoon. We completed the day with a stop at the Frosty Mango for an ice cream as we returned to Ingham.

Wandering Nomads & Military Museums

During the four days spent in Mount Isa we had discussed our route to reach home. The idea of going south seemed attractive until the weather forecast suggested rain just at the time when we would have been in unsealed road territory. Morning temperatures were looking a bit low further south, so staying north was an easy decision.

Our path crossed that of explorers Burke & Wills on their journey across the country

Our path crossed that of explorers Burke & Wills on their journey across the country

The obvious choice was to travel east. Townsville is about one thousand kilometres east of Mount Isa. We did the distance in three easy days, with overnight stops at Richmond and Charters Towers. This was the first time we had covered the full length of the Flinders Highway in one journey, although we had travelled most of it at different times. The only town that we had not previously visited was Julia Creek.

It was Sunday morning and the town was surprisingly active. Two supermarkets were open and several caravans were parked in the main street. There was a queue for service at the roadhouse when we bought fuel.

Part of the main street of Julia Creek

Part of the main street of Julia Creek

Caravans and motor homes are everywhere at this time of year. Towns like Julia Creek are awake to the tourist potential and are taking action to encourage travelers to stay a while. Gray nomads are a responsive target market. Not all are doing “the big lap” and those that are aren’t always in a hurry. Many from Victoria, South Australia and the southern regions of New South Wales are simply looking for a place in the sun.

Self contained RVs in residence by the waterhole near Julia Creek

Self contained RVs in residence by the waterhole near Julia Creek

Just past Julia Creek, by what appears to be a permanent waterhole, the council has planted an extensive grove of trees, which are thriving on irrigation. We nearly bogged when we drove between them to find shade for a lunch time stop. There is an extensive camping area where there is no charge for staying, but a camp host is proved to maintain order. No other facilities are provided so the area is most suitable for fully self contained vans, but there are plenty of those on the road. There were about 30 vans and motor homes set up there with more arriving as we lunched.

Free camping RVs at Reid River rest stop by the Flinders Highway

Free camping RVs at Reid River rest stop by the Flinders Highway

This was only one example of modern gypsy camps. On our way out from Lawn Hill we crossed the Gregory River at Gregory Downs. The river banks are high and the bridge is above flood level. It provided a great view of what can best be described as a caravan village. Gregory Downs is serious distance from anywhere but it is the nearest free camp to the end of the sealed road so the conventional vans and motor homes stop there for a day or three to do a day or overnight trip to Lawn Hill National Park and Adel’s Grove, or just spend the time watching the river flow by. There are a lot worse things to spend your time doing!

Travelling east, the Flinders Highway starts at Cloncurry and its surface is a bumpy old affair. Not a very good tribute to the great explorer in whose memory it is named, I thought, “There needs to be a concerted effort to bring the highway up to a better standard”. As they say, you need to be carefully of what you wish for. Not too far along we came to the first of many automated red lights. You know the type? A two wheeled device with solar panels, an antenna and a closed circuit camera? One side of the road was closed and the traffic from each direction had to take turns using the remaining side while work progressed on the closed side. For the remainder of that day and the next we encountered over twenty of them, often six or more in quick succession and most at least a kilometre long. They totally blew my ETA at the next caravan park out of the water.

The memorial atop the historic Kissing Point Artillery Battery

The memorial atop the historic Kissing Point Artillery Battery

The sun was shining in Townsville and we rediscovered humidity. But a pleasant breeze was blowing. We spent the remainder of arrival day on camp duties. But we had come to Townsville, in part, on a mission.

Ron, our next door neighbor is a Vietnam veteran. He was an Armored Personnel Carrier (APC) driver and part of the first Australian force to be deployed there. Ron was injured in action in Vietnam and has recently suffered a stroke. He has lost a great deal of his mobility but none of his fighting spirit.

Laravack Barracks covers a large area at the foot of Townsville's Mount Stuart.

Laravack Barracks covers a large area at the foot of Townsville’s Mount Stuart.

At a Christmas function at our units last year he told me that his old APC was now at Lavarack Barracks at Townsville and was available for viewing to the general public. I decided then that I would like to see it. Our changed plans would take us through Townsville so here was the opportunity.

Ron's Armored Personnel Carrier

Ron’s Armored Personnel Carrier

We started our search at the gate house at Lavarack Barracks but no one there knew about it so they referred us to the military museum at the northern end of The Strand, that ocean side boulevard that runs

APC with rear ramp down ready to load troops

APC with rear ramp down ready to load troops

north from the CBD and gives such magnificent views of Magnetic Island. It was here that we struck pay dirt. This museum is worth a look in its own right. It covers from the period from the Boer War to modern engagements such as Afghanistan, but mainly from the perspective of Townsville as a garrison city. The restored Kissing Point Fortress is right next door.

APC drivers position and steering levers

APC drivers position and steering levers

The very helpful volunteers at this museum gave us a name and mobile number for a the curator of a museum for the armored regiment that is within the confines of Lavarack Barracks. Soon we had an appointment with WO2 Rocky Hema who signed us in and took us to the museum area where equipment with historic significance is stored. There we found Ron’s APC. It was opened up for us so we were able to climb inside and have a real good look.

I asked Warrant Officer Hema why this particular APC had been preserved. He told us that it had carried the officer in charge of the convoy and that with different crew had played an important role at the battle of Long Tan. He then took us to see the more conventional part of the museum where we saw a photograph of a young and handsome Ron Jose.

Part of the military museum complex at the northern end of Townsville's Strand.

Part of the military museum complex Jezzine Barracks on Townsville’s Strand.

This regimental museum will only be at Lavarack Barracks for another two years, after which it will be moved to a new permanent home at Puckapunyal, near Seymour in Victoria, a place familiar to me from my brief encounter with National service Training over 50 years ago. We took photos of Ron’s APC and sent one off to him attached to a text message. The rest we will pass on when we arrive home.