About Kevin & Ruth Sheather

We are both parents, and grand parents, and will never see 70 again and recently cellebrated our 50th wedding anniversary. Ruth has retired and Kevin has done so partially but with an arrangement that allows extensive periods of travel in out Coromal Magnum off road pop top caravan towed by a 2001 3 litre turbo diesel Holden Jackaroo. We love the outback with its rugged scenary and wide open spaces but are a bit constrained by the need for regular internet to meet work committments. But we love the coastal areas as well. The purpose of this blog site is to keep interested people informed of our travels. We report in as often as we reasonably are able with recent doings. So stand by. The next trip is never too far off.

Central Queensland Plus – Days 9 to 11

Posted on May 1, 2014 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

Day 9 25th April

Tenterfield to Jackadgery 220 km

I expect Tenterfield had a dawn service today so I hope those attending were well rugged up. It was only 7 C at sunrise. As we left town, just before 10 am, spectators were gathering to watch the ANZAC march. As we reached the edge of town we met an original US army Jeep, still left hand drive, driven by an old gent in his Sunday best with the windscreen laying flat on the bonnet, like any self respecting soldier on a cold morning.

Sand banks in the Upper Clarence

We were on the Bruxner Highway heading east. Our objective was the small town of Jackadgery on the Mann River where it is crossed by the Gwydir Highway. But instead of using the New England and Gwydir Highways we were travelling via the Bruxner Highway and the Clarence Way. Unsurprisingly, the Clarence Way follows the Clarence River south from near the small town of Tabulam.

And talking of small towns, Jackadgery is really only a caravan park, without a town at all.

Day use and camping area beside the Clarence

The Clarence Way leaves the highway by a sharp switchback turn onto a badly corrugated gravel road. But not for long, as we were almost immediately confronted by a road closed sign. A bridge is under repair 12 kilometres along. So we had to retrace our path about 10 km to another road that was the official detour. It was sealed for the first 25 km. Just before this detour rejoined Clarence Way, it crosses the river over a low brige at a place that is used by locals as a recreation area. There were a number of campers and picnickers, with children playing in the shallows and kayaks on the bank. We stopped there for lunch.

The road from here was mostly gravel with some sealed areas, mostly in places where the road would be likely to flood.

We were driving through country that alternated between bush and farmland. At one point we came over the top of a hill to overlook a large event involving horses and cattle in a flat area between the road and the river. Camps had been established and there were yards and enclosures that probably belong to a cattle station. We met several horse floats heading in that direction. Probably a long weekend event.

As we travelled, cloud had been building and it became darker as the day progressed. At one point we drove on wet road with a few drops of rain on the windscreen. By the time we reached Jackadgery it had started to rain as a storm came over. But we can’t complain. The weather has been perfect.

Day 10 26th April

Old Grafton to Glen Inness Road 260 km

The lantana is in flower

Our reason for coming to Jackadgery was to drive the Old Grafton to Glen Inness Road. From its official opening in 1867 until the Gwydir Highway opened in 1964 this road was the only way to travel between the Grafton area and the region beyond the Great Dividing Range. With the completion of the new road up the Gibraltar Range the old road became simply a means of access to rural properties and national parks.

Buccarumbi Bridge over the Nymboida Rover

In more recent times it has become more of a tourist Road as word has spread of the magnificent scenery and significance of historical items along its path. The full length of the road between the two centers was about 170 kilometres but the section from where it leaves the Gwydir Highway near Grafton to where it rejoins is 128 kilometres. Our loop from Jackadgery towards Grafton, along the historic road and back to Jackadgery was 260 kilometres.

Campers at Buccarumbi Bridge

From the Grafton end, the first 30 km is typical narrow country sealed road. The road then becomes narrow gravel but it is generally in good condition and a fairly easy drive. Two wheel drive vehicles are adequate in dry conditions but 4WD a necessity if very wet.

The gravel road leads into the Nymboida Valley. Very soon you reach the Buccarumbi Bridge over the Nymboida River. This is a popular camping spot with almost every bit of flat ground playing host to a tent, caravan or camper trailer.

Piers and foundations of a flood destroyed bridge

The upper reaches of the Nymboida are popular with white water enthusiasts but the lower reaches, including after it flows into the Mann River, is more suitable for canoe and kayak touring. The 40 km distance can take 3 to 4 days and is popular with school groups. The proprietor of the Jackadgery Caravan Park provides a service by which he transports groups with their boats to Buccarumbi Bridge thus solving the problem of how to get your vehicle back. He also rents canoes and kayaks just to make it easy. Is anyone interested?

Solitory camper by the river

From this point the road follows river valleys, only taking to the high country to cross to the next valley. For much of the distance the road clings to the hillside just above the stream. Our direction of travel placed Ruth rather precariously on the edge of the road when we met an oncoming vehicle. This happened frequently. Most people want to be next to the bank so they were coming the other way.

A very old butcher shop at Dalmorton

Only a butchers shop (closed) remains of the old gold mining town of Dalmorton on the Boyd River. Like so many similar towns, Dalmorton grew rapidly, only to diminish as quickly when the gold ran out. Some kind Government department has built a large covered picnic facility, which had been commandeered by a camera club who were keeping pace with us. We moved on and enjoyed a solitary lunch beside the pristine Henry River, a little later.

The tunnel by the river

Not far past Dalmorton a stubborn buttress of rock runs to the very edge of the river. Not to be thwarted, the road builders simply dug a tunnel through it. But this was 1887 and they dug it by hand. It is one vehicle wide and of adequate height. A small caravan would fit through its 90 metre length. It is a fascinating piece of early Australian history.

The tunnel from the other side

The Henry River at our lunch stop

We crossed the bridge over the Henry River and drove as near to the stream as we could. There were six cows grazing on the opposite bank. Two walked over the bridge and the other four waded through the shallow stream. Apparently the grass is greener on the other side of a stream as well as on the other side of the fence.

I have lived on a farm, but this was the first time I had really watched a

Boyd River

cow walk. Right hind leg, left fore leg, left hind and right fore leg. Always three feet on the ground. Fascinating!

Finally we reached the Mann River and after a few kilometres along its banks we came to the camping area at the Mann River Nature Reserve. A good spot, as national parks go and well patronised by campers. The river is interesting

Campers at the Mann River Nature Reserve

here as it flows through a small gorge and over huge flat rocks.

Immediately you leave the camping area you pay the price for the easy gradients on the earlier parts of the road. In a climb of about 6 km you gain over 600 meters in altitude. It is quite a climb.

A few years ago, in a Glen Inness caravan park,we met a couple with a van but no obvious car. They had

Small gorge and river bed on the Mann River

blown a gear box towing up that incline. After climbing it, with nothing in tow, I can understand why. So to check out a suitable place to park the van in the area, as we returned along the Gwydir Highway, we drove 3 km into the Washpool National Park and found the Bellbird Camping Area with good accommodation for our size of van.

We continued to the top of the range and made our way down the twisting road back to the Mann Valley particularly enjoying the run beside the Mann River.

The evening was cool and we spent much of it sitting around our neighbour’s camp fire, getting to know a young family who we will probably never see again. Of such experiences are memorable trips made.

Day 11 27th April

Jackadgery to Home 384 km

Bridge on the Mann River at Jackadjery

We had planned to return home on 28th, hoping to spend out last night near the ocean. But the storms returned and clearly were to persist, so we kept on driving until we reached home, arriving at about 5.30 pm.

It had been an enjoyable few days. We covered some new territory, saw new sights and met new people. Towing on gravel gave no problems. Very little movement in the contents of the van even on rough sections. No breakages and no dust inside the van even after quite dusty sections. All good! We expect much more dust on our next trip.

Central Queensland Plus – Days 5 to 8

Posted on April 29, 2014 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

Day 5 – 21st April

Eidesvold to Taroom 248 km

Cracow Hotel

Clear and sunny again, a temperature range of about 16 to 29. We bought fuel early just in case the service station closed early. A leisurely breakfast and we were off to Theodore via Cracow The road is excellent, but there are roadworks for 8 kilometers before reaching Cracow, resulting in a mix old tar and fairly good gravel. Cracow is an old mining town which is now not much more than a pub, a mine and a workers camp. The pub seems to provide all services as well as beer.

Gold Mine at Cracow

But there is still community spirit. The town won the County Spirit award in 2004 and in 2010 built a small building that contains honour rolls from two World wars and quite a lot of memorabilia of soldiers and wars. Beside the building they have fashioned a cenotaph. I expect there will be a march on 25th April with many of the participants both returned service people and returned residents.

View into the Dawson Valley

Theodore was the next stop and like most towns in the area during this Easter season was almost totally closed. The town is located on the Dawson River and the Leichhardt Highway. As we approached the town we noticed telltale tufts of white fiber, a sure sign of cotton products. Before long we were driving through irrigated cotton plantations.

Main street of Theodore

We were out of bread but had to settle for bread rolls from the cafe at the service station. So while we were there we had a hamburger for lunch and headed for Isla Gorge. But we didn’t find it. There was a sign to Isla Gorge Lookout on a bend at the top of a hill with a narrow track running back at a sharp angle, but no sign of the normal National Park signage or the kind of turn you would expect from a major highway into a designated National Park. So we decided to press on. Perhaps next time.

Irrigation weir on Dawson River

So we came on to Taroom, a small agricultural town on the edge of the five kilometer wide Dawson River flood plains. At the bottom of the caravan park is the 11 meter flood mark.

A sign advises that at full flood 5 years normal water flow can pass in two days. The water in this river ends up in the Fitzroy. No wonder Rockhampton floods so badly.

We are now seeing signs of gas exploration. The caravan park is now owned by an energy company and workers accommodation takes up much of the park. And the rates have gone up.

Main street of Taroom

Day 6 – 22^nd April

Around Taroom 208 km

“Next time” came much more quickly than we thought. This morning Ruth and I decided to stay at Taroom for another night so that we can see some of the things that we did not know about and go back to find Isla Gorge National Park.

Dry Lake Murphy

The year before Taroom was founded, explorer Ludwig Leichhardt travelled through the area on his 1844 expedition. He blazed his initials and the date onto a number of trees along his route. One such tree stands in the main street of Taroom. Leichhardt crossed and named the Dawson River. Soon after, he camped beside what is now known as Lake Murphy. Today Lake Murphy was out first objective.

Picture of a flooded Lake Murphy

Seventeen kilometers back along the Leichhardt Highway and another 13 kilometres to the west, the lake is to be found in Lake Murphy Nature Reserve. The final 13 kilometres is good gravel and is on the road to the Expedition National Park, a worthwhile place to visit in its own right. Lake Murphy fills with water when the Robinson Creek overflows. It then becomes a water bird wonderland.

But Murphy’s Law was in operation. There was neither water in or water birds at the lake. But we had morning tea in what is one of the best kept picnic and camping areas that we have seen. The facilities were opened in 1994 to commemorate the 150th anniversary of the Leichhardt expedition. After 20 years it is still in great condition.

The under story of palms

An interesting feature of the forest that is part of this reserve is the under story of Livistona palms that grow beneath the taller eucalypts . The same natural arrangement can be seen by the highway just north of Taroom.

Isla Gorge

Isla Gorge is 45 kilometres further north from the turn to Lake Murphy. As we were not towing the van it did not take long to cover the distance. The park is the eastern extremity of the sandstone mountain ranges that cover a substantial area of inland central Queensland and includes the better known Carnarvon Gorge. The picnic and camping areas are only 1.5 km from the highway and are situated at the end of a ridge that protrudes into a valley. The point is called Isla

Isla Gorge

Gorge Lookout and gives a great view of the surrounding eroded sandstone cliffs, deep ravines and more distant mountain ranges.

The facilities for day visitors and campers are of a good quality and provide great views. A couple of the camp sites are almost on the edge of the precipice. Parents would need to keep a close eye on their children when staying in this park.

Glebe Weir

On the drive back to Taroom we did a side trip to Glebe Weir. This is an irrigation dam but is also used for fishing and boating. A small camping area has been provided near the retaining wall where there are toilets, water and power for $7 per night. There was also 4 bars reception on my Telstra phone. I could come here and still be in touch with the world.

In this area the Dawson flows through broad river flats that are not much higher than the normal level of the river. When the river floods the flats act as reservoirs that retain water and so slow its passage. It helps to explain why Rockhampton flood peaks take so long to occur and why the floods are so often very severe.

Day 7 23^rd April

Taroom to Dalby via Tara 333 km

Today was a longer drive than planned.

Decorated water storage tank at Wandoan

Out first stop was for morning tea at Wandoan. This town is a rural and gas production center, about 60 km south of Taroom and about half way to Miles. From the number of mining vehicles on the road I think the gas industry is winning over agriculture as a growth industry.

We moved on to Miles, did some grocery shopping and had lunch by the Warrego Highway. The endless flow of traffic has to be seen to be believed. If anyone has doubt about the vitality of the Queensland economy they should sit beside the highways that serve the resources and agricultural industry.

A bottle tree at the Wandoan Rest Stop

It is interesting to talk to the locals about the industry and its impact on their lives. Those who work in tourist related jobs are concerned that the industrialisation alienates tourists, particularly the conversion of caravan parks to workers camps. Tourists tend to drive past if they can’t stay in the town. Then they don’t visit the town’s attractions but drive through to the next town. Some locals are worried about pollution and damage to the environment. But most benefit. Work is easier to find and the larger towns that host gas industry development and support facilities receive a very real economic boost.

The western entrance to Miles

As mentioned earlier, we saw evidence of the passage of Ludwig Leichhardt through the Miles area. As we sat by the highway having lunch, right in front of us was a sign advising that the creek, Dogwood Creek, had been crossed at that point and had been named by Leichhardt on his 31^st birthday. He named the crossing point Dogwood Crossing.

A new motel in Miles

I had heard, over a period of time, that the town of Tara, situated about 100 kilometres south of Miles, had been a beneficiary of the gas industry to the extent that what was a town down on its luck had received a boost. So we included it in our itinerary and planned to stay there overnight. But we couldn’t find a decent caravan park so we kept on going to Dalby.

If Tara has benefited from the gas extraction industry it is not obvious in the buildings in the main street but the shops in the street do suggest that there is money being spent. Development is a bit more obvious in some of the larger centres where there are new buildings in the main streets. I’m sure that a visit to industrial areas of these towns would show solid development.

Cotton almost to the horizon

We commenced the day driving through rolling hills including crossing part of the Great Dividing Range between Wandoan and Miles. But once past Miles the terrain became absolutely flat. The wheat stubble fields looked like huge furry billiard tables reaching almost to the horizon. In more than one place we saw flood warning signs saying “Road subject to flooding for the next 20 kilometres”.

We think this crop is sorgham

There was evidence of recent rain through much of the area. There was not much barren ground and many of the roadside paddocks were stocked with cattle in good condition. When most of the animals are lying in the shade by lunch time there is plenty of feed about.

Day 8 24^th April

Dalby to Tenterfield 327 km

We decided this morning to stick as much as possible to our original itinerary, which meant that we needed to be at Tenterfield tonight. When we stopped last night we found that we had driven off and left the step to get into the caravan where we had last used it; at our final afternoon roadside stop. So first order of business today, was to buy a replacement. That done, we headed out of town.

Silos behind the Cecil Plains rest area

The first leg was to Cecil Plains, a small town about 40 km south of Dalby. I had no idea that so much cotton was grown near Dalby, but today we drove past hundreds of hectares of it; white flowers stretching almost as far as you can see and here and there harvesting equipment moving through the fields. White flowers mean harvest time. If you want to understand what broad acre farming means, come and take a look at this. Grain crops also are produced. In most cases wheat fields have not yet been ploughed but there are large areas of what we think is sorghum.

Harvest ready cotton

On arrival at Cecil Plains we discovered that the original Cecil Plains Station was where Ludwig Leichhardt first had the idea of an overland expedition to Port Essington,which was a port that had been established in Northern Territory prior to the establishment of Darwin. We also discovered that Cecil Plains claims all of the cotton grown in the area as its own as it is processed at a gin just out of the town.

A well known land mark at Millmerran

Still travelling south, we crossed the Gore Highway at Millmerran and the Cunningham Highway at Inglewood. We continued on to Texas, on the NSW border, where we stopped for lunch.

Agriculture extends south of Cecil Plains but gradually the land gives over to grazing. There are several forest areas, particularly as Texas is approached. We drove past the relatively new Millmerran power station and under its multiple power lines.

Some very flat country

Texas is, appropriately, a cattle town, but it also has a silver mine. We departed Texas to the east on the road to Stanthorpe but after 34 kilometres turned south into Glenlyon Dam Road, crossing into NSW at the mini town of Mingoola. Although the state border in this area follows a stream and the Bruxner Highway is near the border it is quite hilly so the last 50 kilometres was a slower than the earlier part of the journey.

We are at a higher altitude at Tenterfield so will probably have a fairly cold night.

Central Queensland Plus – Days 1 to 4

Posted on April 21, 2014 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

Day 1 17th April

Home to Peach Trees 126 km

Jimna store and info center and park

Packed and gone by 10 am. A short call at the ATM then Bunnings and we were on our way. A good run, except for impatient truckies to Kilcoy, where we refueled and had lunch in the park before turning north onto the Kilcoy Murgon Road.

Campers at Peach Trees Camping Area

Jimna fire tower – under threat

Civic activity is centered on preservation of the famous Jimna fire lookout tower that stands beside the main road just north of the town.

Jimna village, the fire tower and Peach Trees Camping Area are all within Jimna State Forrest. The camping area is located on Yabba Yabba Creek, which is a tributary of the Mary River, so from time to time provides some of the water that floods Gympie and Marlborough. The evidence of such excess lines the banks of the stream in the firm of flood debris.

The camping area was well occupied with Easter campers. A sign at the gate announced that the park was fully booked.

We found a spot by the creek, a good distance from other campers, although we were engaged in

Yabba Yabba Creek at Peach Trees

conversation by two strolling couples, the second of which joined us for happy hour. As if to emphasise our proximity to nature a large monitor lizard wandered by. We had been welcomed by some screeching parrots and as we chatted grey kangaroos came out of the bush to feed on the fresh grass. As our new friends were leaving, a possum casually walked between the van and the car. Back to nature!

It was a cold night and with no power we were early to bed to be lulled to sleep by the rippling stream.

Day 2 18th April

Jimna to Mount Perry 230 km

The sun came over the hill and shone into our front window, a clear signal that it was time to get up. It soon warmed up the van. Breakfast was taken outside in the sunshine. Packing complete, we said our goodbyes to our new friends and headed for the gravel road leading us north. One of the objectives of this trip is to put up some distance on unsealed roads. Our off road van has not done much work off road. I want to get more experience on dirt and gravel before we tackle more ambitious treks like Cape York and the Birdsville Track.

Ban Ban Springs Rest Area

We had about 70 km of quite good gravel Road, the first 50 of which was through hilly forest and the final 20, plus some sealed road and highway, through undulating farm country. There had been good rain through the area, so the grass was green and grazing cattle were scattered over the pastures.

The Kilcoy Murgon Road joins the Burnett Highway just south of Goomeri, so we motored on through that town, stopping 70 km further on at Ban Ban Springs for fuel and lunch. A further 12 km on we turned right towards Mingo Crossing and Mount Perry. This road alternated between tar and excellent recently graded gravel. In readiness for Easter tourists, no doubt.

Mount Perry Main Street

There is a small caravan park by the Burnett River at Mingo Crossing that was badly damaged by flood water about a year ago. It has not been restored yet so we continued on to Mount Perry, getting the last powered site in the small caravan park. Our visit has coincided with the Mount Perry “Royal” Easter Show, so things are jumping in the old town.

Leopard tank in Mount Perry main street

Our site is in the back corner of a well equipped and quiet park. No rippling stream to put us to sleep but quiet will be a good start.

Day 3 19^th April

Around Mount Perry 57 km

Mount Perry owes its genesis to copper, gold and timber. Copper was discovered in the second half of the 1800s. As the timber was cleared to access the copper its value was recognised and a timber industry commenced. Later gold was found. The problem of

North entrance – Boolboonda tunnel

getting products to market ultimately lead to a railway being built from Bundaberg. A tunnel was needed to access the Mount Perry valley so the longest unsupported rock tunnel in the Queensland rail system was built, opened in 1883 and was used until 1960. It was dug by mainly Chinese labor through the Boolboonda Range so it is known as the Boolboonda Tunnel. It is about 190 meters long and a

South entrance – Boolboonda tunnel – with light at the end

single rail width. The rails are long gone but the tunnel is now used as access to some farms and as a residence for a bent wing bat colony. We drove through and back again as have many others. There were four other vehicles there at the same time despite it being over 20 km from town.

Not far away, on the way back to town, we had noticed a winery, about 3 km along the to read to Monto. We decided to call. Wonbah

Sign at front gate – Wonbah Estate Winery

Estate has been there for about 13 years. They produce a range of wines including ports and liqueurs. They host a number of events during the year, including the chance to get your feet among the grapes in February and a Jazz & Shiraz event in August. There is space for caravans to overnight. Sounds good!

We made a modest purchase of a white, a red and a white port. We will take them home to share with family and friends.

Mount Perry from lookout

On the way back to town a short detour took us to a lookout above the town, with great views of the valley and town area. The valley is rather narrow so the town is strung out along its main street with a few short streets on either side.. From this vantage point it was off to the show grounds to see how the locals entertain themselves.

There were hundreds of motor

Action at Mount Perry show

vehicles parked inside and outside of the grounds. The area surrounding the arena was packed with horse and cattle transport vehicles. A lively program of ring events was under way, to the accompaniment of that kind of commentator that won’t stop taking while he has a microphone in his hand. People were flocking around side shows and food stalls almost uniformly dressed in long sleeve shirts, jeans and boots. But the

Camel rides at Mount Perry show

ladies dressed for the Easter bonnet competition provided contrast.

Equestrian competition is well supported throughout the area and the agricultural shows that are held on successive weekends through the area clearly provide opportunities to participate. I was interested to see the age range of female participants. Clearly it is not a sport just for the young.

Mount Perry show action

We had lunched on hot dogs and chips so after a fair bit of tramping around we went back to the van for a rest, which became a nap. There was more to come. A country show is not complete without a fireworks display. At 8pm sharp the first rocket went up. It was the precursor to 10 minutes of exciting entertainment. Most of the day’s crowds were gone but a good group of 200 or so locals were ready to party on. But we left them to it.

Old copper smelter paved area

The copper mine was in the hill behind the town with the smelter just below it. The last owners didn’t leave much equipment behind when they left, but as a sort of memorial, paving blocks cut from the slag residue have been laid over the original slag dump, with a picnic shelter in the center. Photographs depicting the history of both mine and town are on display. A gold mine is still in operation with workers bused to the site each shift. Some miners appear to be residents of the caravan park.

Day 4 20^th April

Mount Perry to Eidesvold 92 km

The days have been sunny and warm with cool clear nights, not much cloud and only light winds. It is perfect travelling and sleeping weather. I wonder if it is always like this. Is there a real estate agent in town?

The road to Eidesvold crosses and at times follows mountain ranges, for the 80 km of the journey. It is steep in places with low gear warning signs for heavy vehicles. We travelled a few slow kilometers behind a sideshow truck moving on to the next show.

Ceratodus Rail Station

At the Burnett Highway we turned right for a few hundred meters to the Ceratodus rest area, both for morning tea and to see the memorial to the railway pioneers who brought rail transport to North Burnett. The memorial take the form of the original Ceratodus railway station which has been moved to the site and supplemented with written history in the station waiting room and in an adjacent barbecue area.

Old railway bridge over the Burnett River at Ceratodus

The rest area is located on the banks of the Burnett River. We looked down at what was a very modest flow and wondered how such a puny stream could wreck such devastation on Bundaberg. The river would have been 10 meters below the bridge but flood waters had lodged limbs in the branches of trees another 10 meters above the road.

RM Williams Bush Learning center at Eidesvold

We arrived in Eidesvold at a about midday to find that no fuel was available in town and that the first fueling point in our direction of travel was at the limit of our range. The R. M. Williams Bush Learning Center allows over night stops in their grounds, so here we stayed.

The Learning Center is a combined memorial to the great R.M., an information centre and an art gallery associated with the local Mari People. It is quite new and well set up. Williams moved from South Australia to a property West of Eidesvold about mid life. The citizens of the area regard him as their own.

A bronze sculpture of R.M. Williams and horse

Williams lived well into the video era. One of the displays is a recorded interview with him. At the conclusion he is asked how he would wish to be remembered. His reply was, “That I tried”.

There was not much else open in town. Fuel is available from 7 am tomorrow. The service station owner is not trying very hard at all!

Days 29 to 32 – 14th & 17th February – Coffs Harbour, Brooms Head. Kingscliff & Home

Posted on February 22, 2014 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

We had planned to spend the last three nights at Kingscliff where our friends Jim & Frances Weir are currently ensconced, along with three other couples who we have got to know during our visits there. But it was not to be. The Surf Lifesaving folk had decided to hold a Nippers carnival at the Kingscliff SLC so the caravan park was booked out.

Ruth’s younger sister Kathy and her husband Barry have recently settled in the small town of Townsend which is located to the east of the highway adjacent to Maclean. We had arranged to call and had received an invitation to lunch.

We had packed up in rain at Coffs Harbour but the weather had improved to overcast at Townsend. If it had still been raining we probably would have, after lunch, kept on directly to home. We decided to continue along the road through Townsend to the coastal settlement of Brooms Head where we knew there was a caravan park.

Lower area at Brooms head Caravan Park.

Caravan parks are frequently in towns. Brooms Head is almost a town in a caravan park. The park stretches 1.5 km along the beach and includes part of a hill on which there are van sights with excellent views. The remainder of the town is comprised of houses, mostly holiday rental and the Brooms head general store.

The day area at Brooms head beach

High winds were forecast so we acquired a site in the lower area, in behind the sand dune that runs the length of the beach. As it turned out the winds did not reach predicted strength so we have had a comfortable stay.

The attractions here are the beach and fishing. The other points of interest are Sandon River to the south and Red Cliff to the north.

The mouth of the Sandon River

Both are fishing locations with camping facilities within the Yuraygir National Park. Surprisingly both camping areas were almost full of caravans and tents.

Sandon has a private enclave within the national park, with a few old fishing shacks. The river is quite broad, has good boat access

A lone fisherman at Sandon River

and was the sight of much fishing activity. The vegetation is typical of the low coastal areas on this part of the coast. It is about 10 km from Brooms Head.

Red Cliff headland

Red Cliff is, as its name suggests, a red cliff in the form of a headland that stands above the beach just north of Brooms Head. A National Parks provided camping area stretches along the hills behind the headland. The area is partly open and partly vegetated with camp sites cut back into the scrub to provide semi private accommodation. The area is

A group camping at Red Cliff

popular with kangaroos as well as with people. Several tame specimens were quietly grazing, mostly ignoring the humans.

Roos grazing at Red Cliff

Buzzed from above!

In the cool of the evening we walked along the beach to the other part of the caravan park. On the hill above the beach we could see a group of young blokes all looking down at the beach. We could hear a buzzing noise and looked up to see ourselves being buzzed by a radio controlled drone. We waved it its camera and the group waved back. We are

Brooms Head at low tide

always happy to help with the entertainment!

The following morning we travelled to Kingscliff near Tweed Heads where we spent the last night of the trip. With the Nippers carnival complete we were able to find a site for one night.. This is familiar ground so no need for photos.

After spending the night at Kingscliff, we arrived home at about midday on 17^th February. On 18^th Ruth saw her orthopaedic surgeon, who has given her clean bill on her knee. Her next visit is in 9 months time. On 19th, Eldest daughter Karen arrived from her stay in Tasmania to spend a month with us before returning to India. After a short stay at her India home she is off to USA for several weeks in conjunction with her work in India.

So here ends the current series of blog posts. We will keep you advised about future travel.

Until then Ruth joins me in extending our best wishes to all readers.

Kevin

Sydney 2014 – Days 26 to 28 – 11th to 13th February – Coffs Harbour

Posted on February 22, 2014 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

The headland at Coffs Harbour

There is not much to report from Coffs Harbour. The two day stop was for mostly commercial reasons as there was work to be done. But we did have time for sightseeing on the second afternoon, so we did a round trip through Nana Glen, a small town on the back road from Coffs Harbour to Grafton and a station on the north coast railway line.

Both road and railway line follow the Orara River. The road is known as the Orara Way. This small town received much publicity some years ago when actor Russell Crowe bought a rural retreat near the town. Singer Wendy Matthews did likewise a bit later. Both events received a fair amount of coverage in capital city media.

Café on the main road to Grafton

Nana Glen is really two towns, one on the railway and the other on the road. It is all quite old looking but there are signs of benefit from the Coffs harbour tourist boom. A small restaurant operates on the main road and a little further from town another restaurant/bar was promoting live music, no doubt to attract tourists from the coast. Coastal holiday makers seem to like to include a hinterland experience in their holiday.

The town has facilities including a pub and fuel supplies.

The drive that we did would be ideal for a diversion from sun and sand. We drove north, through the extensive road works that seem to have been going on for ever, for about 10 km and turned into Bucca Road. A further 20 km brought us to Nana Glen. We then turned south to travel through the small rural towns of Coramba and Karangi and back into the centre of Coffs Harbour, a round trip of a little over 60 km.

Coffs Harbour is the home of the Big Banana, but perhaps not for long. Banana production is moving away. We passed some plantations as we approached Coffs Harbour from Nana Glen but there do not seem to be many more around. And we saw no bananas at Nana Glen!

Sydney 2014 – Day 25 – 10th February – Around Harrington

Posted on February 21, 2014 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

The main Harrington training wall

Harrington was a special place to our family. Dad was born and raised in the Lansdowne area, just west of the mouth of the Manning, and had fished the training walls along the river since his youth. Holidays there were always about fishing and I have fond memories of helping to eat Dad’s catch.

There are two hills that are part of

Harrington town and lagoon

the town. They rise from the flat river plain like a giant had emptied two huge buckets of dirt by the river. One has a water tower and houses. The other has a lookout and houses. I believe the hill with the lookout is Flagstaff Hill.

A pilot station was built on this hill in 1856 but was closed in 1861 after the death of one William

Manning River mouth and Manning Point

Whitmore. One of Dad’s sisters was named Whitmore, so I am wondering if there is a family connection.

The views over the Manning Estuary are excellent, particularly of the paved training wall from which Dad did most of his fishing. Late in the day Ruth and I walked along the wall, following the

Harrington in the evening light

setting sun and walked back as the daylight faded. We noted several plaques attached to some of the rocks on top of the wall, obviously in memory of departed fisher folk to who this wall must have been a special place.

Manning River Sunset

The main jetty at Crowdy Harbour

We then drove the 8 km to Crowdy Head, the sight if a lighthouse and a harbour which is mainly used by professional fishermen but also provides access to the open sea for hobby anglers.

A story attaches to this place as well. I mentioned a couple of posts back ferrying a yacht from Sydney to Brisbane. Having sailed through the night passing Port Stephens,

Fishing jetty at Crowdy Head

we were rather tired by the end of the next day, so decided to spend the night in a port. We were trying for the Camden Haven River but when it became clear that darkness would beat us we settled on Crowdy Head as an alternative.

One of my crew, the previous owner, was a New South Welshman and the other a Queenslander and that night was

Crowdy Head Lighthouse

a State of Origin league football match between Queensland and NSW. My intention was to buy them a pub meal where they would be able to watch the match. But Crowdy Head doesn’t have a pub or any other eating establishment. I had to settle for buying fresh fish fillets at the cooperative and serve them a meal of yacht cooked fish and chips while we listened to the match on the radio.

Crowdy Head still does not have much of a commercial centre but there is a cafe at the surf club but that would have been too far to walk. The headland is crowned by the heritage lighthouse and its slopes adorned with very expensive houses. They are probably owned by successful folk from Taree.

Diamond Head

We then drove north through the Crowdy Bay National park to Diamond Head and then on to the triplet towns of Laurieton, Dunbogan and North Haven on the Camden Haven River. We found a pleasant place for lunch overlooking the river.

To the south of Laurieton lie the Brother Mountains. There are

Training walls at the mouth of the Camden Haven River

three of them, North Brother, South Brother and Middle Brother. They are prominent mountains and can be seen from a great distance. I recall using North Brother for a compass bearing during the yacht passage. Prominent mountains usually provide great platforms for lookouts and such is certainly the case with North Brother.

Lunch completed we drove the

The Camden Haven Estuary from North Brother Lookout

steep 5 km ascent to the North Brother summit. We had been there before, but the view is one that can be enjoyed time and again. The view of the mouth of the Camden Haven River and the three towns is spectacular as the accompanying photo attests. Looking south the Watson Taylor Lake, skirted on the west by the Pacific Highway, is no less impressive, particularly the long

The river flows through a long neck of land into the Watson Taylor Lake near Laurieton.

neck of land through the river runs before it discharges into the lake.

Middle Brother is clearly visible from its northern brother. We decided to drive to its summit where a tall communications tower is located. But I made a navigational error and ended up on a dead end road. As the day was quickly getting away we decided to leave Middle Brother as unfinished business to be addressed at another time. As we followed the Pacific Highway south to return to Harrington we passed a road boldly sign posted “Middle Brother Road”, so now we know where to start out drive next time.

Sydney 2014 – Day 24 – 9th February – Myall Lakes to Harrington

Posted on February 10, 2014 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

Early ripples on a calm lake

Bulahdelah Court House is now a museum

We awoke to reflected sunshine from the surface of the lake peeping in at our windows. There was no wind and the surface of the lake was like a sheet of glass. We watched it develop its first ripples as we sat over an early cup of coffee.

The route today took us through the town of Bulahdelah which is the nearest thing that we have to a home town when I lived in this area. I went to high school here and we visited the town to shop and to church twice on most Sundays. Mum was the church organist.

Bulahdelah has recently been bypassed by the Pacific Highway after a protracted environmental battle delayed it for several years. Knowing the effect that such a change can have on a country town I was half expecting a town sliding towards ghost town status. But not so!

The river down stream from the bridge

In the Lions Park

On Sunday morning, those shops of interest to tourists, were open and seemed to be trading well. There were people in the streets and cars in the driveways of the two service stations that stand on either side of what was the highway.

Something called the Bass Bash Challenge was in progress. The park was almost overflowing with camps, boats and people. Perhaps it was an unusual day, but it was heartening to see.We took our morning tea break at a park with all required facilities for tourists. Other vans and the crowd from the classic cars were occupying all of the picnic tables so we had our coffee at the van. We were about finished when a local, female and pushy, came around the rear of the van to tell me that I was parked too close to the corner.

Lions Park from the town

She had a point but not by much more than half a meter or so. My response apparently didn’t satisfy her as she accused me of taking her to be a fool. It would not have been a very great leap of intuition to reach that conclusion. She had double parked beside the van in her haste to point out to me the error of my ways in what was really a very dangerous place. Of such events are memorable trips made!

The Plough Inn. It must be near to 100 years old.

There were no coffee shops on my time there

Bulahdelah main street

I remember this building as Wades Grocery Store

The School of Arts was the scene of many remembered activities.

Cars in the visiting classic car club

The commercial centre of Bungwahl

We left the Pacific Highway just north of Bulahdelah to follow The Lakes Way. This road took us through “nostalgia central”. Many of my childhood holidays took place at seaside locations along this road, not to mention the odd Sunday school picnic, and the long gone Boolambayte School, to which I walked across country to commence my education at the age of around six.

: Smiths Lake

We called at a couple of places that prompted memories before we reached Forster on Wallace Lake and its twin town, Tuncurry. We lunched in the shade of a large pine tree by the water at the latter town before bypassing Taree and soon after, left the highway for Harrington, another old Sheather holiday and fishing location.

We have decided to remain here for two days so will tell you something of it in tomorrow’s blog.

Looking across Forster Beach

The Forster Tuncurry Bridge. A ferry powered by a motor launch that could navigate the sand islands used to carry vehicles over the lake.

The entrance to Wallace Lake

Sydney 2014 – Day 23 – 8th February – Myall Lakes

Posted on February 10, 2014 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

That entrance again but this time from Winda Woppa Beach, near Hawks Nest.

The plan was to travel around the bay, through Tea Gardens to Hawks Nest, famous at the holiday choice of former Prime Minister John Howard, before the media packs hunted him out. These are attractive towns, the former on the lower reaches of the Myall River and the latter between the river and the ocean.

The twin headlands of Port Stephens are clearly visible to the south east of Hawks Nest beach, and the scene

Hawks Nest Beach

is further improved by mountainous offshore islands that spread northward along the coast. From these river mouth towns we drove along the narrow strip of land between the ocean beach and the Myall River and soon were within the Myall Lakes National Park. There are several camping places along this road and we had thought that we might spend the

The north headland of Port Stephens and off lying islands. The large island is Broughton Island

The north headland of Port Stephens (right) and off lying islands. The large island is Broughton Island

night at one but they were all crowded on this weekend when it seems that everyone was out and about.

After about 20 km the road swings west to a narrow part of the lake system where a small punt carries traffic across to Bombah Point.

There has been a tourist operation here for many years. Almost 70 years ago my parents brought the family here to a guest house

Bombah Point Punt

operated by the Legge family. In the early 50’s our family had several holidays here, camped under the shady Banksia and She oak trees that grow along the shore of the lake. About 45 years ago, returning on a trip from Melbourne to Cairns with my parents we camped here as Brother Ivan was here on holidays. Today a modern caravan park stands on the sight. We couldn’t

Right at the waters edge.

just drive past.

We have spent the afternoon in the shade of our awning, sitting about 20 meters from the water. It has been quite warm but there is a cooling breeze. Ruth is reading. I am alternatively reading and remembering. We expect a quiet night. There is a 40^th birthday party at the other end of the park but we don’t expect that it will interrupt our rest.

The view as we read.

I had forgotten the private mini beaches.

A house boat off Mungo.

There were lots of friendly ducks.

Sydney 2014 – Day 21 to 22 – 6th & 7th February – Port Stephens

Posted on February 9, 2014 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

Although I lived not far away from the area during the first 15 years of my life and have passed the roads that lead to it countless times, I don’t remember ever visiting the southern shores of Port Stephens. Certainly, I had visited the northern shore at Tea Gardens and spent time within what is now the Myall Lakes National Park, but had not been to the area often known generically as Nelsons Bay.

Entrance to Port Stephens from the lookout at the old lighthouse

The entrance from Shoal Bay beach.

Several years ago Ruth and I bought a yacht in Sydney. I sailed it up the coast with a couple of mates. The plan was to call in at Port Stephens, but we arrived off the entrance at around midnight. There was no moon and it was pitch dark, or at least as dark as it gets at sea on a fine moonless night. We decided to sail on rather than risk a night entrance to a strange port. I was now able to see what would have been revealed by daylight had we made the nocturnal entrance.

The entrance from the second lookout

This is a most beautiful part of the NSW coast and is very popular with the residents of Sydney and Newcastle. We stayed it Shoal Bay, from the crescent beach of which the entrance to this harbour can be clearly seen. We stayed at one of many well patronised caravan parks in the area. Brother Ivan and Sister-in-law Marjorie were right next door, an arrangement that proved to be ideal for chats when in camp.

Our early afternoon arrival allowed us to set up for the three night stay and then have an extended chat. Marjorie had prepared an evening meal for us so the talk went on until bed time.

A favourite and often visited fishing wall.

After clearing some commercial duties the next morning we all climbed into Ivan’s car for a tour. He, as the local, knew his way around. That allowed Ruth and I an uninterrupted view of the passing scenery.

The eastern end on the bay is a succession of beaches and headlands. Nature has been kind in providing hill tops suitable for lookouts just where they are needed. The old lighthouse on the western end of Shoal bay provided a superb view of the heads while another hilltop a little further inland provided a panorama of most of the extensive waterway.

The reflective waters of the further reaches of the bay.

The waterway has a maximum length of 24 km and a width of 6.5 km in the widest part. It has a surface are of 134 square km. It shallows further inland and distributes into several bays, inlets and creeks. The Myall and Karuah Rivers empty into Port Stephens.

Ivan has been a keen fisherman most of his life, so we saw many of his favourite fishing spots, including a convenient flat rock on the marina breakwater from which he has caught luderick , or black fish as they were known in less PC times.

Harbour side development

The development around the waterfront, particularly in elevated positions, is impressive. Much is tourist oriented with resorts, units, motels and hotels in copious number. This is a boating and fishing area so has its share of boat ramps, marinas and extensive areas of moored pleasure craft.

We enjoyed lunch in the café at the main marina and watched the commercial marine activity. This is a whale watching port, but when whales are out of season dolphins seemed to be a viable replacement. Tourist boats kept up a constant shuttle with tourist buses arriving regularly with loads of overseas tourists, predominantly Koreans. While we watched, a crocodile of school children passed, some with fishing rod and others with hand lines, heading for the harbour wall. It would seem that living off the land is still taught in NSW schools.

Recreational craft at anchor in Lemon Tree Passage marina

On Friday we travelled further afield to see more upstream parts of the bay, including fishing spots of course, and then drove to Anna Bay to see the eastern end of the massive sand deposit known as Stockton Beach. If the tide had been suitable I would have taken the party for a drive over that magnificent stretch of sand in the Challenger, but high tide occurred around noon so the timing was not good.

The extensive Stockton Beach from the lookout above Nelson Bay

A closer view of the vast sand deposits of Stockton Beach

Our lunch venue at Birubi Point at the eastern end of Stockton Beach.

So we consoled ourselves by lunching at the front of the Birubi Point Surf Lifesaving Club café with a view down the length of the beach, with the hills behind Newcastle in the far distance. What a magnificent view! And with good food to eat while we enjoyed the view.

The caravan park was well appointed but busy. Grey nomads are known to hitch up their caravans as soon as children return to school. The population of the park was older but some families were still holidaying.

The crazing didn’t seem to stop!

Among the constant movement of people and vehicles, three small rabbits kept a close eye on the activity as they calmly grazed among the van sites. They showed little fear – just looked at you and grazed on.

Sydney – Day 13 to 20 – 29th January to 5th February – Sydney with family

Posted on February 6, 2014 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

Having heard forecasts of hot weather in Sydney, we packed to leave Katoomba with some reluctance. We had a very straightforward run down the mountain, stopping for coffee just past Penrith and reaching the Lane Cove River Tourist Park at about lunch time.

It was hot, so it was not long until the air conditioner was operating and with the assistance of a fan to circulate the air and comfort was restored.

We had an early start on Thursday to meet Karen’s flight, which arrived at about 6.30 am. Karen is staying with Briony while we are in Sydney, so a North Ryde to Erskineville commute is a daily routine. Briony is working and Karen has some commitments but we are able to spend some valuable time together.

Pleasure boats at Bobbin Head.

On Friday we had a few spare hours in the middle of the day so we took Karen for a picnic at Bobbin Head in the Ku-Ring-gai Chase National Park. On Saturday we (all four of us) commenced our day with brunch at the Sydney Fish Market and then drove out to the home of Ruth’s youngest sister at Mt. Annan for a family gathering. We all eat far too much food but a great time was enjoyed. Much catching up with folk who we do not see very often.

Barrenjoey Head at the mouth of the Hawkesbury River.

The mouth of the Hawkesbury River.

Ruth and I had the day to ourselves on Sunday. We used it to continue our visit to Ku-Ring-Gai, driving out to West Head where magnificent views of Palm Beach, Barrenjoey Head, Lion Island and the extensive waters of Pittwater and the mouth of the Hawkesbury River are laid out like a diorama. Over thirty years ago, during a short term posting to Sydney, we owned a small yacht

Palm Beach and Pittwater.

that we kept on Pittwater, so these waters were our regular weekend playground. The views brought back very pleasant memories.

We later drove along the Northern Beaches as far as Avalon where we found a pleasant small restaurant for lunch. We returned to the caravan via Dee Why. It was in this beach side suburb that Ruth spent her teenage years, so there was a certain nostalgia during this part of the drive.

Avalon Beach

Monday was Briony’s birthday. It was a work day for her, so we met her after work at the Red Lantern on Crown, a trendy Vietnamese Restaurant in now fashionable suburb Redfern. The restaurant is operated by TV chef Luke Nguyen, who I had never heard of before, but who everyone else seems to know. Briony is a confirmed “foodie” and had sought out the venue with great care. She had chosen the tasting menu. The food was superb.

Tuesday was our last day in Sydney. It was a cool day and raining. Karen was moving on to stay with friends in Sydney so we spent some time with her in the shelter of a shopping mall before returning to the van to start to pack for our departure the next day. That evening we made our last trip to Erskineville where we had a meal with Briony before saying our farewells and returning to North Ryde. We had spent a very pleasant and happy week with our two daughters who we see together so infrequently.

On Wednesday, still in the family theme, we have come north to Shoal Bay on Port Stephens to spend three days with my elder brother Ivan and his wife Marjorie. They are Novocastrians, so have had only a short journey to reach the Shoal Bay Tourist Park. Their van is parked right next door so coffee and chats are easy and convenient. We will be seeing the sights while here so normal blogging will resume.

Kevin & Ruth Sheather

The Mobilesheathers – exploring Australia

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