West, Centre & Flinders – Days 36 to 44 – Filling in Time, Ayres Rock & The Olgers

Posted on September 7, 2016 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

Monday produced a reasonable morning, but cloud moved in during the afternoon and rain arrived by early evening. The rain was fairly constant until the early evening on Tuesday when it reduced to a slow drizzle that went on and on. You become very aware of it under a caravan roof. Wednesday was a good day with long periods of sunshine.

Hills by the road side south of Alice Springs

The rain promised for Thursday did not eventuate although it was cloudy for most of the day, with a few brief periods of sprinkles. We discovered later that the rain all fell to the south, around Coober Pedy. About two seasons worth of it!

So what does one do to fill in time in Alice Springs while waiting for the weather? Well, I decided to be sick. After a walk along the sandy floor of Trephina Gorge in the midday sun on Sunday I felt a bit more knocked up that I would have expected, but put it down to the warm day. Not as young as I used to be, you know! But by evening I had back aches and headaches and general lethargy. Seems I had picked up a local gastric bug that has been doing the rounds. Ruth had a touch of it as well.

So the diet changed to dry biscuits, toast and Vegemite drinks, with lots of rest. We spent the four days restfully, with only one outing, to buy supplies for the next leg of the journey.

We left town with the exhaust noises of rebuilt classic and hot rod cars ringing in our ears. A gathering of exponents was being hosted by Alice Springs. Some had already arrived in our caravan park and were disturbing the peace.

A Waxy Wattle at Erldunda

Erldunda is a bit less than 200 kilometres south of Alice, at the intersection of the Lassiter Highway with the Stuart. Lassiter Highway leads to Uluru. The only establishment at the intersection is The Desert Oaks Resort. The Resort is a roadhouse, hotel, motel, tour bus camping area and a caravan park. Quite a good caravan park and it is where we spent Friday night.

The drive to Erldunda was through more kilometres of green desert, mostly flat but with occasional jump up ranges to give some relief. We were pushing into a cold stiff south-westerly wind, but arrived mid afternoon to a grassy drive through sight. Our neighbors were almost all travelling to the same destination as we are. The caravan park has a platform for viewing sunsets but the cloud was packed solid with not a single glimpse of the sun.

Daisies to the horizon

We drove through similar terrain on Saturday but the hills are sand dunes rather than jump ups. Yulara is a further 250 kilometres west from Erldunda and more desert like, but still green. We had been passing wild flowers for a number of weeks and frequency had been increasing, but as we turned west the frequency increased further. Fields of yellow daisies stretched to the horizon, often interspersed with smaller areas of white ones and other wild flowers.

Unknown flower. Who knows what it is?

I am no expert in wild flowers so many sightings remain unidentified. Today I realised that bushes of small yellow blooms were Waxy Wattles. We thought that hectares of shrubs with small mauvish white flowers is Heath, but now find that it is Desert thryptomene. Perhaps readers can help by responding to photographs. I will include “Unknown” in the picture title. Watching for the flowers sure brightens the journey.

Mount Conner near Curtain Springs is often mistaken for Uluru

Saturday afternoon brought us to Yulara and the Ayers Rock Caravan Park. It is a large park with a high turnover of visitors, as people only seem to stay for a couple of days to see Uluru (Ayres Rock)and its sister range, Kata Tjuta (The Olgas).

A three day National Park pass costs $25 for each of us and the caravan park offers a “pay three and stay four night” special, so we increased our stay by two days. But there is a second reason. Things that we want to see as we go south are not accessible because of rain affected roads. A couple of additional days will give more time for roads to dry out.

Ayres Rock (Uluru) from the camp lookout

We wasted no time in starting the tourist ritual. The first priority is always to gain an uninterrupted view of “The Rock”. Sightings are rare as you approach Yulara, due to a succession of sand hills that obscure the view. Resort designers thoughtfully provided a lookout on a sand dune on the Uluru side of the camp ground, with expanded mesh pathways to the top. So we walked up to see the sun seting on The Rock.

Sunset cloud patterns from the camp lookout

From this distance and direction the result was unspectacular, but the sunset was nice and illuminated some intricate skeins of cloud, remnants of the day’s heavier cloud cover. The accompanying photo demonstrates how attractive they were.

A climbers view of Ayres Rock

On Sunday morning we set off for the national park, parting with $50 at the gate. We drove directly to the area where most visitors start their walk around the base of Uluru and where people climb the rock. There was no one climbing. The climb was closed due to high winds at the summit. It was quite breezy at the base so that made sense. The most prominent signage is that encouraging visitors not to climb.

The start of the walking track around the base of Uluru

We then commenced a clockwise drive around the encircling road. We had completed the walk around the base on our last visit in 2010. At a distance of 10.5 km, to do it would be a bit of a stretch. Photo opportunities from the road are limited due to yellow “no standing” lines on both edges of the tar where the road runs adjacent to areas of cultural sacred significance.

Another unknown flower

The circumnavigation complete, we visited the cultural centre where photography is totally forbidden. It is an extensive building taken up by cultural displays, a gift shop, an art shop and a working Aboriginal art studio. There is also a Holy of Holies. A coffee shop!

On Monday morning we put on our tourist boots again to do the Kuniya Walk into Mutiijulu Waterhole. We had seen this area on our walk last visit and wanted to see it again. On the southern face of Uluru there is a huge “scooped out” valley that acts as a funnel for water

Tourists standing by the pool

off the Rock, which it drains into the waterhole. From there a stream passes along the foot of the Rock and then drains away to marsh land. It is easy to understand the importance of such a water source to locals before water started running out of a tap.

The rock forms a natural funnel

The stream runs along the foot of the rock

The Olgas from the sunrise viewing area

Having completed Uluru, with the exception of a sunset visit still to come, we drove the 45 kilometres to The Olgas, now re-badged as Kata Tjuta, stopping on the way to view this group of domes from the sunrise viewing facility on a sand dune to the east of the range.

Valley of the Winds Walk

I completed two walks, but the terrain was a bit rough for Ruth, so she sat them out. Both walks had been done on our last visit but were worth repeating. I prefer The Olgas to Ayers Rock in many ways. Uluru is huge and awesome but The Olgas have variety, as each dome is different to its neighbor.

The Valley of the Winds walk is sometimes closed as wind velocity can be dangerous. It was open today and I did it first.

More flowers by the math

The track leads at first along the bed of a stream that carries water down a slope, before crossing extensive beds of conglomerate, the rock from which the domes are formed. The path then climbs in a series of steps, over more conglomerate and loose rock, to a saddle between two domes. The view is over more domes in another part of the range. A second walk starts from the saddle. It is a loop into a ravine and around other domes, but it is more demanding and adds another hour or so to the walk.

The domes that form Walpa Gorge

The second walk was into Walpa Gorge. This walk is between the southernmost dome and its counterpart, immediately to the north. Most of this walk is over exposed conglomerate and is a bit like a moon walk. The path follows the lower northern slopes of the southern dome. The rock is intersected periodically by small vegetated streams that drain the upper slope and run to a stream that divides the domes. Foot bridges have been built over the streams for safety and convenience. The Walpa Gorge path leads almost through between the two domes to a rock fall that blocks what would otherwise be a complete passage to the eastern side.

Walking over conglomerate rock in Walpa Gorge

The final part of the Walpa Gorge walk

The walks in Kata Tjuta allow you to get up close and personal with the domes. The Valley of the Winds walk provides elevation for a different perspective to that available from the surrounding plain. Walpa Gorge allows close inspection of the lower reaches of the domes. The stunning addition to what we saw on our last visit is the wild flowers. Wherever there is some soil to give vegetation a toe hold, there are blooms. The sides of the road between Uluru and Kata Tjuta are similarly decorated.

The Olgas from the start of The Great Central Road

Just before Kata Tjuta is reached from Uluru or Yulara, Tjukaruru Road turns to the west. It is part of the Great Central Road that leads across the western part of the Continent to the West Australia gold fields. It is also part of the Outback Way that stretches from Cairns in the east to Perth in the west. The Outback Way is also known as The Longest Short Cut.

I can never stand at the start of such a road without getting itchy feet. So as a minor indulgence we drove the first few hundred meters of the rutted dirt and took a photo of the road, disappearing into the West. And a final shot of The Olgas from the road.

The final Tuesday evening activity was to go out to watch the changing colours as the setting sun reflects off Uluru. We took soup in a thermos and fresh rolls from the local bakery. The sun doesn’t set until almost 6.30 pm (7.00 pm EST) so that looked after the first course of dinner.

The setting sun touches the top of Ayers Rock. Desert thryptomene and Honey grevillea in the foreground

The signs were not hopeful. There was a heavy bank of cloud obscuring the sun in the west as we drove out to the viewing area. Initially the rock was in the shadow of the cloud but then the sun began to break through and to illuminate different parts of the rock as the sun sank and the clouds moved. There were some great effects, quite different to what we saw last visit when we had a cloud free view.

The final sunset at Uluru

We almost missed the final act. We were so focused on Ayers Rock that we were not watching the setting sun behind us. As we started to drive home the road turned us to the west. We were faced with a breath taking sight. Clouds near the horizon and .higher in the sky almost appeared to be on fire. By the time we had parked and got the camera out the very best had gone, but what remained was well worth photographing.

So it was back to camp for the remainder of our evening meal.

West, Centre & Flinders – Days 30 to 32 – Weather Impacts and Highways

Posted on August 27, 2016 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

The rain actually amounted to quite a lot. It started with sprinkles during the afternoon and intensified during the evening. Come Tuesday morning the sky was still black, with periods of heavy rain. So we decided to stay put at Barkly Homestead and paid for another night.

The broad plains of the Barkly Tableland

Before the rain came we were considering our options. If we are to continue to Alice Springs our arrival will be greeted by a number of mornings with lowest temperatures of 2 to 4 degrees C. To turn north to Cape Crawford and Borroloola would see us with top temperatures of about 34 to 36 degrees C. To be hot or cold became the question.

Caged birds on display at Barkly Homestead

But the rain changed the equation completely. The Tablelands Highway, that leads north from Barkly, is a single lane sealed road that carries many road trains. When you meet a road train on such roads it is necessary to pull right off the road to leave the sealed road clear. I didn’t fancy pulling off on to rain soaked shoulders, so Alice Springs and cold mornings, here we come!

Caravan parking layout at Barkly Homestead

Spending a day at Barkly Homestead has been quite pleasant. A few vans had declared a lay day. We have carried out a few chores but mainly sat and read. The caravan park here is designed for one night stopovers with vans remaining hooked up to tow vehicles. The grounds are laid out in a series of parking lanes separated by a raised gravel area and with a section of artificial grass placed to be directly outside of the door of the van. This provides a refuge from the inevitable mud that occurs whenever the rains descend in torrents, as they tend to do in this part of Australia.

Wednesday dawned with some cloud to the west but it soon cleared to a cloudless warm day. I enjoy driving the Barkly Highway. It is one of the best quality country highways in Australia. The tablelands change from flat to undulating and back to flat again, with open grassland changing to low wooded scrub land. Sprinkled through the scrubby vegetation are eucalypts with white boughs (Ghost gums, I believe) that branch a couple of metres above the ground, producing trees that seem to have been designed for climbing.

The memorial to Rev. John Flynn beside the Stuart Highway at Three Ways north of Tennant Creek

We turned south at Three Ways, where the Barkly Highway intersects with the Stuart Highway, but first we made the 200 metre journey north to visit the pillar built in memory of Rev. John Flynn, founder of the Royal Flying Doctor Service. It stands prominently beside the highway.

Approaching the Marbles from the North

Out destination for the day was the camping reserve at the Devils Marbles. We set up for the night, before taking a long stroll around and among these amazing boulders with their endless variety of shapes and sizes. The information displays at the day use area inform us that the boulders are slowly breaking down and become rounded as they shed their “skin”, a bit like peeling an onion. As the day ended, I found a large slab of rock like a ramp and was able to walk to an elevated level to watch the sun disappear for the day.

So we woke to the sun shining on the pile of rocks that comprised our private view, before packing and setting off to Alice Springs. The morning was cold but the day quickly warmed. Again, clear blue sky with a few scattered clouds, as we approached our destination.

Strange balancing arrangements are common

You would think that someone would have pushed it over by now!

You do have to wonder how it got there

The cairn marking the highest point on the Stuart Highway north of Alice Springs

Although the highest point of the road is a bit to the north of Alice Springs there is no feeling of climbing. The terrain appears quite flat most of the way but with some ranges of hills beside the road or visible in the distance. After turning south at Three Ways the Davenport Range and the national park of the same name can be seen to the east. Approaching Tennant Creek from the north a low range of hills dissects the highway while on both sides of Barrow Creek, on both sides of the road, hills with stone caps, like battlements, add a fortress quality to this tiny town. They remind of the Great Wall of China.

Capped hills near Barrow Creek

Barrow Creek Telegraph Repeater Station

There is a great deal of history along this road. Not only does the Stuart Highway generally follow the route of the Overland Telegraph Line but telegraph repeater stations have been preserved at Barrow Creek and Tennant Creek. Road side monuments honour explorers like Stuart and Warburton. We again crossed the Tropic of Capricorn.

The Stuart Highway was not as busy as the Barkly. For substantial periods we had the highway to our selves, sometimes in the centre of a straight section of highway that extended to the horizon in both directions. Parts of the highway that we drove today had sections with no speed restrictions at all. The rest mainly had a limit of 130 KPH but at no time did we see fellow road users doing excessive speed.

So here we are at the Wintersun Caravan Park, for three days, during which we will wash cloths, shop, have haircuts and look at some things that we have missed in previous visits.

https://youtu.be/AO5hUwTxjNU

West, Centre & Flinders – Days 24 to 29 – Mt Isa and Other Things

Posted on August 22, 2016 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

This is the sign that welcomes you to Birdsville. We photographed it on the way out. The +/- 7000 relates to visitors at major events

The next two days were spent travelling back to Boulia, so there is not much to be said, as we were covering ground already covered in this trip. But we did take some photographs, of things that we had missed on the way down.

People hang the strangest things beside the road

Have you ever seen such a descriptive name?

But Boulia to Mount Isa represented new fields as we had not travelled this road before.

The ranges near Dajarra

This part of the Diamantina Developmental Road can be best described as a single lane ribbon of tar punctuated periodically by wider stretches of pavement, officially named Passing Opportunities – and Dajarra. Dajarra is a predominantly Aboriginal town about 140 kilometres north of Boulia. It is situated near the only decent range of hills that is encountered on the entire journey, until nearing Mount Isa.

The Museum in Dajarra

Much of the country is treeless plains of varying quality but a good portion carried good grass. Other parts are not so lush and have the appearance of not having received as much rain as pastures further south.

I mentioned in a previous post the lack of cattle grazing on the fresh grass. It appears that cattle are being trucked into the area from

Grazing lands south of Mt Isa

further north. Someone to whom I spoke suggested that the cattle were sourced from the area around Catherine in Northern Territory. We camped at a rest area about 60 kilometres north of Boulia and during late afternoon and early evening saw around 10 double deck three trailer road trains, fully loaded and heading south. Just before we reached the rest area we had seen a herd of several hundred beasts that looked to have been recently unloaded.

Sun sett at our Peek Creek Bore camp sight north of Boulia

This stop, at Peek Creek Bore afforded us the opportunity for a second camp fire for this trip. But the fire did not produce enough quality coals to try using the camp oven.

Mount Isa is a shopping and washing stop for us. We have been here at least five times so there is not much new to see. This time we approached from the south so passed not one but two power stations that we had not seen before. Mount Isa is a substantial centre dominated by the huge mine operated by Mount Isa Mines.

One of the power stations at Mt Isa

The stage at the Drovers Museum. Anne Kirkpatrick, daughter of Slim Dusty, will perform here during the festival

This stop over was for Friday and Saturday nights, so on Sunday morning we continued north west to the border town of Camooweal. You may recall that two of our fellow dinner guests at the remote Middleton Hotel were on their way to Camooweal to assist with preparation for the annual drovers’ festival. Camooweal has a drovers’ museum which is the base for the festival. This is where we found the folk that we met at Middleton. I had told them that we would call but they were still surprised to see us.

Ruth talking to our new acquaintance at the museum

The museum has the normal memorabilia but also a great deal of cattle droving related artifices, dozens of artists portraits of droving identities and several displays that tell the history of cattle droving in northern Australia. All this is supplemented by a video made of a conducted tour of the museum. We had no trouble in spending 90 minutes there before taking our leave of our new friends.

Model stock yards are used to demonstrate cattle handling techniques

Cattle grazing against the background of a grey sky

Mount Isa is in a mountainous area but is surrounded to the south, west and north by the flat sweeping plains. The pastures through which we drove are not as green as to the south as they have not had the same amount of rain. The border between Queensland and Northern Territory is a line drawn across a featureless plain that stretches to the horizon in every direction.

This is the Barkly Tableland, that covers a large part of Northern Territory and encroaches well into North West Queensland. It is prime grazing land and produces a substantial proportion of Australia’s beef.

Some of our fellow campers at Avon Downs

Our journeys on this Sunday has brought is to Avon Downs Rest Area, about 60 kilometres inside the NT border. Avon Downs cattle station surrounds us and the Avon Downs police station, the first in NT, is across the road. We are sharing the space with about twenty other vans, motor yard. Occasionally another road train thunders by, but less frequently as the night passes, we hope.

Some wild flowers along the way

We had set an easy task for Monday (22nd August) with only 190 kilometres to get us to Barkly Homestead Roadhouse. Cloud started to build yesterday and there were some blustery winds during the night. Lots of blue sky this morning but it did not last. Grey skies soon set in. As we pulled in to the fuel pumps at Barkly Homestead rain spots appeared on the windscreen. Rain has been forecast throughout the area for about this time. We thought we might be far enough to the north to miss it, but no such luck.

Flowers road side at Mt Isa

About the most exciting things to happen to us on the drive this morning was to be passed by two road trains. As an interest, as we have crossed this part of the Barkly Tableland, Ruth has been keeping an inventory of the traffic we met. That is, east bound traffic. I will include the details in a future post. But one comment can be made. If you remove the caravans and motor homes there is not much traffic left.

The Nine Pillars of Cobb & Co

The Nine Pillars plaque at Middleton. Under the sign on the right.

To back track a bit, during our stay at the Middleton Hotel our host pointed out to us a plaque declaring his establishment to be the Fourth Pillar of Cobb & Co. When a mail contract was awarded to Cobb & Co in 1892 the Middleton Hotel was already operating, having opened in 1876. It was soon joined by others that also became horse change stations and providers of food and overnight accommodation for coach passengers. All other hotels are gone with the only relic being the chimney of the Hamilton Hotel. That hotel, well known to locals was sighted on the Hamilton River nearer to Boulia.

Makunda Hotel was where the coaches from Winton and Boulia met. No sign of the hotel remains.

We found some of the plaques as we drove the rest of the way to Boulia. Number 1 is in Winton and Number 9 is outside the Min Min Experience at Boulia. A brochure that gives details of the old mail run, presented as a tour, is available at information centres. It includes a return route that includes the Diamantina Lakes National Park and points of interest along the Diamantina River.

West, Centre & Flinders – Days 22 to 23 – Enjoying Birdsville

Posted on August 19, 2016 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

The Information Centre in Birdsville

We had problems in finding a place to park out van in the small caravan park in Bedourie. Enthusiastic watering to produce grass had turned most of it into a quagmire. It doesn’t take much water to create a bog hole in this country.

Set up in Birdsville Caravan Park

But there was no such pretense at Birdsville Caravan Park. It is an orderly, well kept park but there is not a blade of grass in sight. Fence to fence it is compacted fine gravel. The events that draw large crowds here, particularly the Birdsville race meeting and the Big Red Bash, have made it necessary that the park be able to handle crowds. The amenity block is sized accordingly. The races are less than three weeks away, so preparations for the crowds are under way.

The Diamantina River at Birdsville. Water levels are rising as the recent rains to the north slowly move towards Lake Eyre

Our Monday activity was to have been a trip to the Big Red sand dune on the edge of the Simpson Desert, but no sooner had we left town than out navigation system stopped showing us the way. This necessitated a return to camp to fix the problem. While I puzzled over the problem Ruth started some washing. By the time that we were ready to go it was a bit late, so we had lunch and set off to see closer sights.

The Bourke & Wills tree at Birdsville

Just over the Diamantina River there still stands a tree into which explorers Bourke and Wills cut a blaze and chiseled some markings. Look carefully and you can see parts of some of the characters that they cut, still visible after more than 150 years.

The Birdsville Racecourse from the highway into town

Right next door are the facilities for horse trainers, probably built here for proximity to the river. A little further from town the race course itself is located beside the highway, which is the northern end of the Birdsville Track. Preparation is also under way there.

Ruth stands beside the information booth at the Queensland/SA border

There is still a temptation to change our plans and go down the Track, so we drove the first 30 kilometres to gauge its condition. It is a full width gravel road and is in quite good nick at this end. Just some more grist for the decision mill.

A holding yard built from local timber

The drive took us over the South Australia border, which is only 15 kilometres south of Birdsville. By the time that we turned around we were well into the long sand dunes that cross the country side. The border is well sign posted by both states and an

The Birdsville Hotel. It has stood for over a century

Birdsville Bakery, home of the curried camel pie

Tuesday dawned, another cloudless day with a cool easterly breeze and flies. We made a fairly early start on the 35 kilometre drive into the edge of the Simpson Desert, arriving at the boundary of the National Park at about 10.00 am. Since the authorities had provided a picnic shelter there, the last one until the other side of the desert probably, we shared it with a family of Swallows that had built their nest in the roof frame.

The road from town leas to the foot of Little Red. The Simpson Desert starts at the sign.

The sand dune known as Big Red is the tallest sand dune in the Simpson Desert. In reality it is the highest spot on a sand dune that disappears into infinity in both directions. The dune could be over one hundred kilometres long. A couple of kilometres to the south, part of the same dune, is Little Red. The road leads directly to Little Red which you can cross and continue on into the desert. Or you can turn right and follow the foot of the dune until you come to Big Red.

To drive over Little Red is a bit of an anticlimax. To drive to the summit of Big Red is one of the most iconic things that a four wheel drive enthusiast can do.

Just loo at all that lovely sand!

We parked at the foot of Little Red and I climbed to the summit along with two or three other people. We then drove to the foot of Big Red. Again I climbed to the summit and discussed matters with another driver who had taken the walk just before I did. We decided to reduce tyre air pressure, as recommended, and give it a try. I offered to video his ascent and did. He then took my camera as I returned to the car, reduced air pressure and made the climb. We ascended without problem. Another item ticked off the bucket list!

Parked at the summit of Big Red

The track down the western face of Big Red and into the Simpson Desert

A sign outside of the Birdsville Bakery

We agreed that the drive up the dune had been easy and wondered what all the fuss was about. Then we looked over the western edge and understood. Because of prevailing easterly winds most of the loose sand has been blown from the eastern side to the western side of the dune. Those travelling in an easterly direction face piles of soft sand, fluffed up by the wind. We watched as two drivers struggled with the conditions. They were still struggling when we drove back down the dune, re inflated our tyres and returned to town.

It was now lunch time. Another iconic activity in Birdsville is to eat a curried camel pie at the Birdsville Bakery. Ruth chickened and had ordinary beef. We washed them down with cappuccinos. The curried camel was not bad. It tasted a bit like beef but with a distinct difference. The accompanying picture will explain.

The main bar at the Birdsville Hotel

That left us with one last traditional activity before leaving Birdsville. A drink at the very historic and dare I say it, iconic Birdsville Hotel. We arrived at the same time as two of our fellow adventurers from this morning’s activity at Big Red. So we joined them and chatted about the kind of things that folk chat about under such circumstances.

The Birdsville Track reaches south into South Australia

For William Shakespeare the big question was to be or not to be. For us it was to go or not to go. Here we are at the northern end of the Birdsville Track and one of my ambitions has always been to drive its length. But if we do that we will arrive in the Flinders Ranges to a succession of 4 degree mornings and several following that will, in all probability, won’t be much warmer . That makes it a no brainer. Tomorrow we will retrace our course back to Boulia and from there to Mount Isa and points west. And ultimately south, but only after minimum daily temperatures increase a bit, hopefully.

West, Centre & Flinders – Days 20 to 21 – To Bedourie and Birdsville

Posted on August 19, 2016 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

The sign at Boulia for the turn South

It is just less than 400 kilometres from Boulia to Birdsville, neatly dissected by Bedourie, which is about 200 kilometres from both. As there are no other towns on the road we made Bedourie our destination on Saturday and finished the journey on Sunday. On both days we arrived for a late lunch. That allowed us time to look around on our day of arrival.

The Royal Hotel Bedourie

Our last visit to Bedourie was by air, during our air tour of the area around Lake Eyre in 2011. The first night of the tour was spent at the historic Royal Hotel at Bedourie. Licensee Jim Smith had provided hospitality beyond the call of duty, so we called to see him. Sadly he was away in Mt. Isa. But we, as the only customers, got talking to the young lady behind the bar. Clearly she was a northern European back packer.

The part of main street at Bedourie

We mentioned that while here, we had visited nearby Cluny Station. That led her to tell us that she had been at a party at Cluny the previous night. Soon other party participants arrived. I could see another party starting, so we said our farewells and departed but with a bit more knowledge of life in this remote town.

A bridge over one of the channels of the Georgina River

The terrain between Boulia and Birdsville is flat, with few hills. It is the quintessential land of rolling plains. A little less than half way to Bedourie we crossed the Georgina River, which with the Diamantina, drains the north west area of Queensland, ultimately running into Lake Eyre. For most of the way to Bedourie the river and its flood plains were to our left, a never ending swathe of green, mostly treeless plain but with the normal growth of trees along the river.

The marker for the Tropic of Capricorn sits by the road where it crosses a treeless plain

I mentioned a post or two ago about explorer Major Sir Thomas Mitchell and his exploration of the area. One of his discoveries was vast areas of treeless plains covered with natural grasses. The most prominent of the grasses was named in his honour, Mitchell grass. The plains over which we were driving are Mitchell grass plains. This type of treeless country accounts for about 14% of Queensland’s land area.

The official marker for the Vaughan Johnson Lookout overlooks Diaimantina flood plains

On the border between Boulia and Diamantina Shires (Diamantina Shire is based on Bedourie), right by the road, is the most prominent hill of the trip. At the summit the councils have built a rest and information area. It is named after and was opened by Hon. Vaughan Johnson, now retired, but a long time member for the Queensland state seat of Gregory and a former government minister.

The steep climb to the lookout

I don’t want to over work the word but the view is magnificent. Through an arc of about 270 degrees the view is over flood plains, now green from recent rain. From this vantage point it is easy to believe that this area was once an inland sea. Equally interesting are the six double sided information boards that provide historical and environmental information. In a protective cage a piece of road building equipment used on the original road is now on display.

The old causeway over King Creek south of Bedourie

Bedourie is partially surrounded by Eyre Creek, a waterway that follows the road that we were on, now the Eyre Developmental Road, for some distance. A variety of water birds can be sighted at Cuttaburra Waterhole beside the road. The stream finally crosses the road for the last time, a little further south at Cuttaburra Crossing, before heading through a couple of lakes and into the desert, to then run south again to its final destination at Lake Eyre.

The main channel of Eyre Creek near Glengyle Station

The main channel of Eyre at Cutta Burra crossing

Diamantina Shire describes its municipality as “Where the Desert Meets the Channel Country”. This is an apt description. The further south the less frequent the lush green of newly growing grass and the more frequent becomes the expenses of red gravel, sand and clay patches and the scrubby salt bush type vegetation that dominates in these regions. And then, of course, there is the increased frequency of sand dunes, partially covered with vegetation, that stretch from one horizon to the other.

The sealed road crosses a sand dune south of Bedourie

The road was good. There is now only eight kilometres of unsealed road north of Bedourie and a bit less than 80 kilometres between Bedourie and Birdsville. The unsealed sections were in good condition. Our lower than normal average speed was the result of frequent stops to take photos rather than the condition of the road.

The road over Eyre Creek at Glengyle Crossing

Lush vegetation on the flood plains of the Diamantina

Birdsville, on our arrival, seemed to be full of motor bikes. They were roaring around the streets and the caravan park most of the afternoon. It seems that some groups of bikers are crossing the Simpson Desert and have all arrived in town at once.

This morning, at Bedourie, in our caravan park, I spoke to one motor cyclist involved with a group raising funds for Sudden Infant Death Syndrome (SIDS for Kids). They have two groups crossing the continent from Cape Byron in NSW to Steep Point in WA. Some will cross the Simpson Desert but others will get to Alice Springs via the Donohue and Plenty Highways. They will join up to proceed to Uluru and then cross the Great Central Road and ultimately reach Steep Point, the most westerly point in WA. Challenging stuff! They had already raised about $65,000 as they reached Birdsville

West, Centre and Flinders – Days 12 to 17 – Traveling West

Posted on August 10, 2016 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

Ducks around a roadside pond as we left Rockhampton

According to Google Maps, by the time we turn south at Boulia, we will be 1,288 kilometres by road from the coast at Yeppoon. This will have taken about eight days, so you can see that we are not in a hurry. But we will have covered about 200 extra kilometres by turning south at Barcaldine, then travelling west to Isisford and then back to the Capricorn Highway at Ilfracombe, before turning west again to Longreach.

The coastal area is relatively flat and there is no real sensation of gaining elevation as we travel towards the Central Highlands until quite some distance west of Rockhampton. At a couple of places the climb is steep but generally the country undulates with each up grade taking us higher than the last.

A commemorative plaque to Major Sir Thomas Mitchell who explored this area

After Dingo, the road flattens and points like an arrow or wavers slightly toward the ever moving horizon which may be a distant arc where sky meets the plain or the variable outline of a range of hills. We are surprised to find that we are just 20 kilometres east of Alpha, or 460 kilometres from our starting point at the coast, before we reach the summit of the Great Dividing Range. The whole 444 metres of it! We are then in the Lake Eyre catchment. We feel as though we are getting somewhere.

Our first night was spent at Duaringa, in a council sponsored camping area, which we shared with about 40 other vans and motor homes. Late in the afternoon we were visited by a representative of the local Lions Club, with a notice that they will be serving breakfast the following morning. Egg and bacon muffins were our choice, with fruit juice.

Mobile worker accommodation at Alpha

A new shopping centre has been built on the eastern fringe of Emerald, where we stopped to buy some required items. We had intended another roadside stop that night but nothing took our fancy, so we continued to the Alpha caravan park. Alpha is near to the location of the proposed coal mine that is causing some controversy at the moment. Project type accommodation units in the park suggest that some of the development team have been accommodated here.

Next we passed through Jericho, where a road side sign proclaimed that Jericho is the only town in Australia that has crystal trumpeters. Well they would, wouldn’t they?

Part of the long main street of Barcaldine

Since we left Rockhampton we have met an endless parade of caravans and motor homes. You name a brand and we have probably seen it. Strangely, there has been very little traffic, caravan or otherwise, going in our direction. When on country highways we cruise at about 80 kph. Most vans and almost all other vehicles, road trains included, travel much faster than we do, particularly when the speed limit is 110 kph. Perhaps it was because we were travelling on Saturday and Sunday. I think the lack of caravans going our way has to do with the direction in which southerners do their loops through NSW and Queensland. The majority seem to travel north inland and return home via the coast.

Inside the Tree of Knowledge memorial

Barcaldine is reached next. It has historical fame as the birth place of the Australian Labor Party. Shearers famously went on strike here in the late nineteenth century. By the look of the main street on Sunday, when we passed through, no one much has gone back to work. Caravans and motor homes lined both sides of the long main street but barely a shop was open to serve them. Is this the dead hand of unionism or high Sunday penalty rates? Or perhaps trading laws?

Set up among the trees at Barcaldine South

Barcaldine marked the temporary ending of our westward passage as we turned there to go south to Blackall. A convenient roadside rest area about 30 kilometres south provided a suitable over night stopping place. And with a bonus! Some kind soul had left a small pile of firewood right where we parked the van for the night. So we had dinner under the stars by firelight. Adding to our carbon footprint, of course! We thank the kind prior occupant.

Our one and only camp fire for the trip so far

The Barcoo River at Blackall

The following day we continued south to Blackall. This substantial town is on the Landsborough Highway and on the Barcoo River. After refueling we turned wast to travel across the rich flood plains of the Barcoo River system. Like many rivers in this area it is not a single stream but a series of channels and water holes that only flow when there is significant rainfall.

Yellow daises adorn the Barcoo flood plains

The recent rains have done their work and what was barren drought afflicted earth is now brilliantly green, with grazing stock and expanses of wild flowers. We think the flowers are daises, some white but mostly yellow. It was a very pleasant drive along a good sealed road that was almost normal double carriage way width most of the way.

Weir on the Barcoo at Isisford

At Isisford we set up the van for the night in a council supplied area beside the weir that retains some of the water in the Barcoo. We slept to the gentle rumble of water cascading over the spillway as the recent rains make their way down stream to join with the Thompson River near Jundah to become the famous Cooper Creek.

Set up on the river bank as Isisford

Inside the crocodile museum at Isisford

During the afternoon we took a walk through the small town. We were surprised to see a modern coffee shop with alfresco tables. On closer scrutiny, we realised that it was part of museum for the display of fossils of a prehistoric crocodile found in the area some years ago. The Isisford croc, scientifically known as Isisfordia Duncania (the last part for the discoverer whose surname was Duncan). The Isisford croc is believed to be the ancestor of the 20 plus species of crocodile and alligator known today.

$The road between Isisford and Ilfracombe is not as wide as that traveled the previous day$

The road between Isisford and Ilfracombe is not as wide as that traveled the previous day

A jumbo jet at the Qantas Founders Museum

The Thompson is the river at Longreach. We arrived here yesterday. We have visited and blogged about Longreach before and have previously visited its main attractions. The Qantas museum is obvious as you drive into town. A jumbo jet parked by the road in a country town can hardly be missed. The Stockman’s Hall of Fame is almost directly opposite on the other side of the highway.

The Stockmans Hall of Fame

En suit units at the caravan park. A row of what?

We are at the Longreach Tourist Park and have declared a lay day. That means that we have delayed moving on for a day. It was time for a breather after five days on the move.

West, Centre and Flinders – Days 9 to 11 – Relatively Speaking

Posted on August 6, 2016 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

My Nexus 7 tablet developed charging problems before we left home. They became worse as we travelled. I use navigation apps on the Nexus which run while we travel. Normally, because it is plugged into a 12 volt charger all day, we arrive at that days destination with the Nexus fully charged. Now it slowly goes flat during the day.

After a few tries I found a repairer in Rockhampton who was prepared to look at it. His diagnosis is that wires that connect the USB port are loose and need soldering. But on such a device the repair requires micro soldering and that is not a common process and probably not available outside of Brisbane at best. So the much loved Nexus is out of service, at least until we are back in Brisbane.

Ready to deal with the fish and chips

Fortunately I have another tablet, a Samsung Tab 3, which I received from Telstra as a reward for upgrading the data package on my phone. I have transferred the navigation apps to the Tab 3 but it has a larger screen that the Nexus so won’t fit in the frame attached to the dash board of the car. So I have had to order a larger size which, hopefully, will meet us in Longreach, on Tuesday. We will, of course, spend at least part of Tuesday night filling in our Census form.

The wet play area at Yeppoon

But back to the narrative! The distance from Gracemere to Kinka Beach is only 60 km, so even with a stop at the shops in North Rockhampton, we were at Kinka Beach by 11.30 am. Registration formalities complete, we proceeded to park the van beside the allotted concrete slab. No easy task, as there was a large tree in the way. We finally prevailed, had lunch and settled in to wait for the arrival of Sister Aileen and brother-in-law Colin and their friends Marj and Vic.

View south from Yeppoon. Rosslyn Bay is on the left

We didn’t do a great deal during the two days. An outing to Emu Park the first day to stock up on food. Ruth went with the others while I stayed behind to get my blog up to date. On day two we drove up to Yeppoon for lunch (excellent fish and chips followed by coffee) and then drove steadily back down the coast road, known as Scenic Highway, taking in the panorama of beach, ocean and islands and stopping in at the Rosslyn Bay marina, where we sat and watched what little activity there was while soaking up some wonderful sunshine. Here I write particularly on behalf of the four Victorian visitors.

Boats and residential area at Rosslyn Bay

In between, we spent a considerable amount of time chatting, as we caught up on news of the Victorian branch of our family, seated in the sunshine and protected as much as possible from a pesky chilly south westerly wind. Daytime temperatures were low to mid twenties, but overnight got down to below 10 C most nights. But that is mostly how it has been since we left home.

West, Centre and Flinders – Days 1 to 4 – A Bridge and Aviation History

Posted on July 28, 2016 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

Dickabram Bridge

Some time ago, someone posted somewhere, a photo of Dickabram Bridge with a comment about an adjacent peaceful camping area. I noted it for future reference. When we settled with the Keith an Linda Giles on Burnett Heads as a meeting point we were committed to yet another trip up the Bruce Highway, but we wanted an overnight stop away from highway traffic. Dickabram Rest Area was just the ticket.

The Mary River upstream of the bridge

The turn from the highway is to the left at the small town of Gunalda, about 15 km north of the intersection of the Bruce Highway with the Wide Bay (or Bunya) Highway. The road is narrow but sealed and passes through woodlands and cane fields. The bridge carries the road over the Mary River near the remains of the town of Miva. The road then joins the Bauple Woolooga Road. This makes it something of a short cut to the South Burnett area, as we found during the afternoon and evening.

The bridge in the morning fog

The bridge is heritage listed, as it is one of two of its kind in Australia. It has two lanes, one that carries road traffic and one that formally carried the railway. The line has long been closed, but the rails remain. The bridge is mainly of timber construction with a planked deck, the planks running at right angles to the direction of travel. We lived within hearing distance to a bridge planked in this manner when I was a child. They are a recipe for noise.

A cloud bank illuminated by the sun rise behind the camping area

A unique feature of the bridge is the steel tube trusses that support the centre part that is actually over the river itself. The other trusses are of timber. The bridge was opened in 1886, completing a link to Kilkivan. The structure is 191 meters long and stands 23 meters above the river. Its decking has only once been under flood waters, quite early in its life, in 1893, but many floods have raged between its trusses since then, without bringing it down.

The deck of the bridge with the rails still in place

There is not much left of Miva. Its heyday seems to have been during bridge construction, when it was one of those towns that boasted a butcher, a baker and a candle stick maker and three pubs!

The camping area was quite, except when a vehicle was crossing and that occurred frequently during the late afternoon and quite a few times during the night. We were the only residents overnight but did entertain a travelling couple to afternoon tea. We took pity on them. Their caravan was damaged and they had been waiting for two weeks for it to be repaired and were living in a cabin at Gunalda while they waited. They had visited the bridge to help fill in some time. We assisted by extending the time taken for their visit to the bridge.

Pelicans at Burnett Heads

The next day we made our way back over the bridge as we moved on to Bundaberg and Burnett Heads. As had been the case the day before, we met an endless stream of caravans coming south. We arrived at the Burnett Heads Caravan Park at about 1.30 pm to find Keith and Linda Giles two caravans ahead of us in the check in queue.

A crimson sunset

The arrangement was really about spending some time with them, but on Wednesday we went together to visit the Hinkler Hall of Aviation. Almost everyone has heard of aviator Bert Hinkler and most people know that his home was in Bundaberg. He came to fame in Europe but it all started in Bundaberg.

A tribute to Bert Hinkler at Mon Repos Beach

I had no idea that he designed and built his own glider, taking inspiration for his design from the study of the ibis. His glider actually flew a mere ten years after the Wright Brothers first successful flight, on what is now Mon Repos Beach, now better known for its popularity with the Loggerhead Turtle as a breeding ground. It was named after Hinkler’s home in England. This house now stands in the gardens at Bundaberg North, having been reconstructed brick by brick after being dismantled and moved to Bundaberg.

The beach where the first flight took place

We visited the house several years ago. Now it stands next to a large building that contains the story of Hinkler’s life and many of the aircraft, some of them replicas, with which he was involved throughout his life. He became a pilot, served with distinction during the First World War, reaching the rank of Squadron Leader, and of course was the first aviator to fly solo from England to Australia. But he was a gifted engineer and inventor. Many of his inventions are still in use today.

A Bert Hinkler cutout in front of his famous aircraft

The Hall of Aviation is an extensive building with a roof shaped in the style of an aircraft wing. Inside is an extensive display that features several aircraft but has video booths, wall mounted illustrated story boards, flight simulators and even simulators that allows visitors to experience the sensation of flying a glider of the type that Hinkler built.

The Hinkler home relocated from England

A visit is to be absolutely recommended.

A Hinkler designed amphibious airfraft

The aircraft wing shaped roof of the building

Gardens and cafe from the house balcony

Cruising yachts on the Burnett River. The rum distillery is in the background.

We returned to the city area to lunch, overlooking the Burnett River and after a bit of essential shopping returned to Burnett Heads for a second communal evening meal. This morning Keith and Linda continued their journey home to Castlemaine and we moved north to Baffle Creek for a couple of nights. We will post from Baffle Creek if anything worth reporting should occur.

Baffle Creek, incidentally, is south of the town of Seventeen Seventy. This part of Queensland is known as the Discovery Coast.

Central Highlands and Mackay – 9 to 14 June – Finch Hatton to Mackey and Home

Posted on June 28, 2016 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

Day 8

Steam rising almost vertically on a still morning as we passed Marian sugar mill

Moving on to Mackay was the main item on the day’s agenda. We drove the 70 km or so to Mackay, turning north at Marian to the Bruce Highway and approaching Mackay from the north. The morning was clear with almost no breeze. We quickly settled into the Andergrove Van Park. We have been here before so know our way around.

Birds feeding near our caravan

We arrived just before midday, set up the van and had lunch. But there were delays while we chatted with a West Australian couple, of about our vintage, who arrived at the neighboring site, as we were setting up.

Then to chores that needed our attention, so washing and a trip to the shops completed the day.

Day 9

We were visited by a group of ducks

Last night Ruth encountered some problems with access to the Internet, with her computer and pad, while trying to connect to the Internet through the mobile hot spot facility of her mobile phone. So first order of the day was to get it sorted. A young technician at the nearest Telstra shop solved the problem in about two minutes, but there was a bit of a wait for his services, so we did not return to the van until lunch time.

Sunset Beach at Shoal Point

After lunch we went for a drive to the near northern beaches. I love this part of Queensland and could easily live here. Three promontories point northward into the Coral Sea, giving ocean views to the north and to a certain extent, to the west. Each has elevated terrain at their northern extremities and locals have taken full advantage of high ground when building their homes.

Dolphin Heads from the deck at the Eimeo Hotel

We started at Shoal Point, which is furthest from Andergrove, and returned through Bucasia, Eimeo, Dolphin Heads and Blacks Beach. We called at the Eimeo Pacific Hotel for Devonshire Tea. The hotel is a beautiful old building, situated at the top of a hill at the most northern point of the promontory. It has an extensive deck with umbrella shaded tables. Views are over neighboring Dolphin Point including the Dolphin Point Resort and to the not very distant outlining islands, that are part of an island chain that runs all the way to the Whitsunday Islands.

Eimeo Hotel deck

Lamberts Beach and Mackay Harbor

We returned back south and past our caravan park to drive in the other direction to Slade Point. At the tip of the point is a car accessible observation point that provides panoramic views of Mackay Harbor and the marina with its village of high rise apartments and hotels. In the distance, to the south and east, views are to be had of the twin coal loading facilities of Hay Point and Dalrymple Bay, with their cluster of loading ships and the armada of waiting empty bulk carriers out to sea.

A yacht entering Mackay Harbor

We finished the day by driving out to the end of the harbor breakwater. The parking area there gives another view of the coal loader and waiting ships plus a view of the harbor facilities. At that time of day they were silhouetted against the setting sun. About 25 years ago I had close commercial involvement in this part of Queensland. It was fascinating to see the development that has occurred during the last quarter of a century.

Day 10

Beach at Cape Hillsborough

Today we did a tour of the more distant beach locations north of Mackay. We repeated the first few kilometres of yesterday’s trip but then cut across through the small town of Habana to the Cape Hillsborough road. The drive was through more cane fields in an area of undulating terrain where each hill top seemed to be crowned by a house.

Mountains behind the beach on Cape Hilsborough

Mountains behind the beach on Cape Hillsborough

Cape Hillsborough has a caravan park, where we stayed for a few days about six years ago. Today we parked at the picnic area in the national park for coffee before taking a walk on the beautiful beach. The beach is not beautiful in terms of brilliant white sand. The sand is grey in colour and muddy nearer the water, as the tide was out. It’s beauty comes from the rocks sculptured by waves, wind and rain over the ages, the steep hills that fringe the beach and the dramatic mountains that form a backdrop. And then there is the implied romance of off shore islands, partially obscured by haze.

Beach side houses at Ball Bay

In then, in turn, visited Ball Bay, Halliday Bay and Seaforth. These towns of varying size each has its own bay , beach and a residential area of old fishermen’s hut type houses with newer residential and holiday homes built among them. Each town has an esplanade behind the beach, a park with facilities and a swimming enclosure to keep box jellyfish and crocodiles at bay.

Birds feeding under a tap.

We lunched under a picnic shelter at Seaforth, the largest of the towns. A family, returning from the beach, stopped at a tap near to our table to wash sand off their feet. The resulting pool of fresh water was quickly taken over by ducks and seagulls that seemed to enjoy a long drink of fresh water. They showed no fear and provided us with entertainment as we had our lunch.

Empty swimming enclosure at Seaforth

This latish lunch marked the end of our outing, so we headed back to the van for some preparation for our departure next day for home.

Picnic facilities at Seaforth

Days 11, 12 & 13

We had allowed ourselves three days to travel home. The weather was deteriorating as we came south and getting colder.

Water birds being fed at the caravan park

The first day brought us to the minute town of Yaamba, which is on the highway not far north of Rockhampton, for an overnight stop in a road side parking area. Once again we had heavy traffic thundering by with trains in the distance. But we are becoming immune to truck noise and enjoyed a good night’s sleep. There was heavy rain over night but we did not hear it.

A bulk carrier on its way into the Gladstone coal terminal

For the evening of day two we had arranged to call on my former secretary from Mayne Nickless days. We had some time to spare before arriving at her home so drove into Gladstone and found a parking spot with views of the harbor and shipping activity. There we relaxed and had lunch. Two empty coal carriers were escorted to their births by tugs while we watched.

Former secretary Sandy has a brand new husband who we had not met, so we accepted an invitation to dinner and to park overnight in the spacious grounds around their house, on the northern fringe of Bundaberg. They are developing the property into a wedding reception and conference centre. The attractive property has areas of forest and lush green lawns. We enjoyed their company and the meal prepared by hubby Ian and learned much about the challenges of establishing such a business.

There was a bit more rain overnight and more as we came further south, with frequent showers passing.

On our way back south we discovered the missing caravans from our trip north. They were all coming north on the Bruce Highway. The spare spaces that we had seen in caravan parks were in process of being filled.

Central Highlands and Mackay – 6 to 8 June 2016 – From Dingo to Finch Hatton

Posted on June 24, 2016 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

Roadworks. This ravine was much deeper than it appears.

Day 5

Yet another sunny morning! There is hardly a cloud in the sky, but it is quite chilly. It is time to break out the “long johns” I think.

Much of the Fitzroy Developmental Road was quite new and easy going. Later in the day the roads became narrower and bumpier from constant use by heavy transport vehicles. There were road and bridge works under way in several places. At one point we plunged into a deep ravine and out the other side on a temporary road.

Not many hills in this area but Blackdown Tableland can be seen in the distance

We drove north from Dingo for about one hundred kilometres on the Fitzroy Developmental Road deep into the southern Bowen Basin. There is no coal mining at Dingo or any sign of it until near Middlemount , which we reached a few minutes after turning of the Fitzroy Developmental Road. From Middlemount to Dysart there are mines, but not prominent and most are well off the road. Middlemount and Dysart are both mining towns.

Public sporting facilities at Dysart

Both are modern with extensive community facilities and shopping centres that contain the shops that sell the essentials and some that sell luxuries.

Further on, we reached the longer established mining area where the mining activity is more extensive and visible. The road runs right through the middle of Peak Downs mine. Two over passes carry mining traffic over

Overburden is a sure sign of a coal mine

the highway, traffic including the huge dump trucks that carry the coal from the mine to the processing and loading facilities. We parked beside the road and while I walked around taking photos Ruth had the best seat in the house. She sat in the front of the car and watched the parade of dump trucks crossing the over pass no more than 200 metres in front of her.

A coal laden dump truck traveling from the mine to the loading facility

Coal production equipment at Peak Down Mine

Peak Downs Mine coal washing plant

The wide load turning off the highway ahead of us

Just before turning onto the Peak Downs Highway near Moranbah we came up behind a very wide load. The escorts were not interested in letting anyone get past so the journey to the junction of the road into Moranbah was a bit slow. We had visited that particular town when in the area two years ago, so we refueled and continued on the few kilometres to our

Vans parked at the Isis River camping area

stopping off point for the night beside the Isaac River.

A plaque commemorates the passing of this site by the Leichhardt expedition in 1844-45

Day 6

The weather is starting to get boring. It’s sunny and cool again but with temperatures in the mid 20s promised. The activity today was to get ourselves from Isaac River to Finch Hatton, a small town inland from Mackay, in the Pioneer Valley.

There was not much traffic going our way but there was a constant stream of oncoming traffic, most of it large trucks bound for the mining area. The Fitzroy Developmental Road that we had started out on the previous day, but left after about 100 kilometers, joins the Peak Downs Highway not far into our day’s journey. As we approached the intersection flashing yellow lights confirmed the chatter that we had been hearing on the two way radio and a truck carrying a very long bridge beam entered the road right in front of us.

About to drive through the parked convoy vehicles

We soon found that there were two more ahead, making a convoy of three over dimensional trucks and six escorts vehicles. We, and the string of vehicles behind us, knew that we could not pass, so we settled in to be part of a convoy of ever increasing length. Fortunately the large trucks up ahead were able to maintain speeds of about 80 to 90 kph so everyone was happy. This arrangement continued until the trucks pulled off for a rest break at the small town of Nebo.

That was the end of excitement for the day.

Those familiar with this end of the Peak Downs Highway might be interested to know that work is under way to bypass the steep winding section where the road climbs from the Pioneer Valley to the plateau that leads to the Bowen Basin. The work is well under way.

Driving through cane fields

The drive from Eaton to Finch Hatton is through sugar cane fields where the harvest was just getting under way. Cane harvest produces hazards on the road, particularly cane trains at level crossings, slow moving cane transport vehicles and cane harvesting machinery as it moves from farm to farm. The approach to a sugar mill is marked by that tell tale sweet smell of sugar juice. But to the ,locals the smell is the odor if liquid gold.

We drove to Finch Hatton via Marian, for fuel, and then drove through the neighboring town of Mirani. I was amazed at the extent to which suburbia has reached out from Mackay to those towns. Partly the result of housing demand from the mining boom, I suppose.

We arrived and set up in the Finch Hatton showground, which doubles as their caravan park, in time for a late lunch. We spent a lazy afternoon, mostly reading.

Day 7

Our reason for visiting Finch Hatton was to see Finch Hatton Gorge. A few years ago we drove to the start of the walks but didn’t have time to do any of them.

Finch Hatton Gorge is not a gorge in the normal expectation of gorges that are tourist attractions. It runs into a rain forest covered mountain range and its floor and sides are rain forest covered. It’s unique feature is the stream that runs through it, but more particularly two features of the stream.

There are two walks, the second being an extension of the first. The walk to reach Araluen Cascades is about 1.4 kilometres from the car park. The path winds through dense rain forest, around the heads of a number of gullies, for about 900 metres and then descends about 500 metres to the falls. A viewing platform provides an close view of the falls themselves but a staircase has been provided to access the rock pools into which the water tumbles.

I have put my video clips and images into a short video to give you an idea about the drive in to the area, the walk to the cascades and the Araluen Cascades themselves. Here it is.

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjQv55Cpd4k[/youtube]

We did the walk to this point and spent 30 minutes or so just absorbing the beauty and atmosphere of the place. While there, a couple of French backpackers arrived. On our walk back we met several groups of walkers, many of who were in our age group. This is the most ambitious walk that Ruth has done since her knee replacement. She passed the challenge with flying colours.

The extension to the walk is a further 1.4 kilometre return to Wheel of Fire rock pool. We didn’t do this part but understand the feature to be a particularly large rock pool suitable for swimming. Both locations are popular with locals as swimming facilities, particularly in summer time and because they are free of crocodiles. The water looked to be well below swimming temperature to me but I suppose it is warmer in Summer.

The road winds up the mountain to Eungella village

After lunch we drove up the remainder of the Pioneer Valley and ascended the steep climb to the village of Eungella and the Eungella section of the National Park of the same name. Finch Hatton Gorge is also in the Eungella National Park. Before taking in the views from Eungella we drove on to Broken River with a objective of spotting a Platypus.

The Pioneer Valley from a Sky Window viewing area

But first we came to that 300 metre stroll known as Sky Window. I had forgotten all about it. The loop track leads to two excellent views. The first is over the mountain side where the road snakes up from the valley. The road is clearly visible from this vantage point. The second view is of the Pioneer Valley and the mountain ranges that form it. Today the view was clear with not much haze. The patch work of cane farms is quite attractive.

Our Platypus sighting

Our luck was in at Broken River. We sighted a Platypus three times before it headed for the river bank, probably going home to its burrow.

We returned to Eungella village to take in that perspective of the Pioneer Valley from a different angle before descending to the valley and returning to Finch Hatton for the night.

Just for fun, I edited some action camera videos, that we had filmed on the way up the range and coming down again, to give you an idea of what the drive is like. Here it is:

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSdqdmS5JIw[/youtube]

Kevin & Ruth Sheather

The Mobilesheathers – exploring Australia

Category Archives: Major Journeys