Sydney & Blue Mountains – Katoomba, Blackheath & Home

Posted on December 3, 2024 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

The Three Sisters were a bit further away than yesterday.

Wednesday was a day out of the tourist brochure, but Thursday dawned with total cloud cover. Happily, rain held off until about 3.00 PM. Aileen had had another bad night with her back and needed the services of another chiropractor. She found an appointment in Blackheath at mid-day. That left us with a morning to fill in.

We returned to Katoomba to drive some of the cliff top roads that provide views to the Jameson Valley. It was more of the same from the two previous days, but Blue Mountain scenery can stand some repeats. We stopped at a couple of lookouts, but the heavy cloud meant that the colours were subdued and nowhere near their best.

For some older scenery we returned to the old site of Explorers Tree and confirmed that the rellick was no longer there. But on the other hand we did discover the Katoomba end of The Six Foot Track. It now begins at an eco-cultural plaza, I guess you would call it, with history and Aboriginal culture sharing prominence. The quality of the trail head path does not continue very far.

We returned to Blackheath for Aileen to subject herself to another pummelling. Then lunch at a gourmet sandwich shop in the main street of Blackheath. Different and very tasty.

Sadly, this is where my photos of the Blue Mountains end. I took some shots at Mount Wilson and on the way down the mountain to Lithgow but they are not on my camera or phone. It is a mystery.

A mural on the old theatre in Blackheath.

We still had an afternoon to fill. The last time that Ruth and had driven west to east over the Blue Mountains we had used the Bells Line of Road, the main link between Lithgow and Richmond on the Nepean River. I had noticed a turn to the left east of the small town of Bell, to Mount Wilson. This small town became our destination.

From Blackheath we had a 32 km drive, the last 10 km or so on winding mountain roads. We found that we were in an area not unlike some of the less developed parts of the Dandenong Ranges in Victoria. The area is elevated with roads leading to large acreages blocks containing substantial houses with extensive gardens.

There is a small commercial centre but no one was there. The area offers a number of walks but it would require a much better day to entice me onto any of them. At least we now know what is there.

Returning to Bell, we continued on towards Lithgow, hoping to take a look at the Zig Zag Railway, the heritage listed original railway that climbed the mountain from Lithgow. When I planned the trip, a ride on the railway was to have been on our itinerary, until I discovered that the train only operated on Friday to Monday. Rain had started by the time we reached Clarence Station, the top station of the Zig Zag Railway, so we drove past.

To cover new territory, we continued down the mountain to Lithgow, returning to Blackheath via Hartley and the Mount Victoria Pass. Beside the highway, we could see the new road being constructed, towards the base of the mountain where the tunnel will start.

Each time we drove to or from Katoomba we passed, in Blackheath main street, the Blackheath fish and chip shop. We subsequently discovered that the shop had opened about a year after Ruth and I had honeymooned in Katoomba. So, when dinner time approach Bernard and I sallied forth and acquired four seafood boxes. They provided a very satisfactory meal.

On Friday morning we were out of bed early as we all had a distance to cover before nightfall. We left Blackheath at around 8.30 AM, Aileen and Bernard bound for Cooma and Ruth and I for Coffs Harbour. It was a long day, but we used the tollway tunnel system to escape Sydney. Further north,we were interested to see the scope of the highway extensions under way to link the northern end of the Newcastle Bypass with the highway north of Raymond Terrace.

A short drive on Saturday morning brought us to the RSL Club in Ballina and the eightieth birthday celebration that was the gneisses of the whole trip south. It was a successful event. We renewed acquaintances with folk from our days in Melbourne who we have not seen for a very long time.

Next morning, with the family of our new eighty-year-old, we enjoyed the views over Shelly Beach from a café, as we shared brunch with visitors who had come to Ballina for the celebration. Suitably refuelled, we climbed back into the car for the last three hours of our trip.

Sydney and The Blue Mountains – Lookouts and Gardens.

Posted on November 30, 2024 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

Aileen had hurt her back yesterday morning, of all things, putting her trousers on. Tuesday night had been a bad night for her, so the priority for Wednesday morning was to find a chiropractor. She located one in Katoomba, with an appointment just after lunch. That determined the direction in which our sightseeing lay that day, but it was not much different to what we had in mind.

We started our tourist day at Wentworth Falls. As we approached the parking area for the walk to the viewing point we noticed smoke in the air, then spotted a helicopter with a water bucket underneath. Must only have been a small fire as the smoke reduced quickly but was still a bit of an obstacle to clear photos. Views into Jamieson Valley were good but when we moved along to the viewing Point for Wentworth Falls, the flow of water over the drop was a bit disappointing.

The less seen side if Thr Three Sisters.

View into the Jamison Valley from Wentworth Falls

The next stop was Sublime Point, where we walked down to the top viewing area that gave us a view of the lower lookout. Sublime Point protrudes into Jamieson Valley further than any of the other promontories, so does provide a top vantage point. It also provides a view of the back of The Three Sisters.

Next in order was Leura and the Leura Cascades but most of the area was closed to the public with car parks sealed off with temporary gates.

By now it was nearing lunch time. We found a parking space under the library and took the lift up to a cafe on an upper level. The chiropractor was located just over the street. I walked Aileen over while Bernard and Ruth waited.

The fire control helicopter at Wentworth Falls. Note the bucket in the lower left hand corner.

Aileen felt better, so we continued our drive. As we were close to Echo Point we resumed there, taking in the views of mountains and valley and taking those mandatory photos. We went back to have another look at Leura Falls area but had no better luck. Finally we drove to Katoomba Falls. Again, there was not much flow in the stream and as it is quite a long walk out to the point where the water actually falls, we decided to give it a miss and move on.

That mandatory photo but I didn’t get the Sisters in the background.

The Jamison Valley terminal of the Scenic Railway.

A Sulphur-crested Cockatoo at Katoomba Falls

Heads down and eat. Wood Ducks also at Katoomba Falls.

The Waratah, floral emblem of New South Wales.

With the Katoomba area pretty much done, we returned to Blackheath to visit the Campbell Rhododendron Gardens. Rhododendrons grow well in the mountains with specimens of this family of shrubs adorning private gardens at evert turn. Despite the uniform floral theme, the gardens are worth a visit. Ruth and I previously visited about six years ago.

The gardens are spread over a timbered hillside with the blooms juxtaposed with native trees that provide natural shelter. A stream runs through the lower area with lagoons that provide reflections and a home for water birds. Sadly, many of the blooms were past their best but still provide a blaze of colour over the hillside. There is an entry fee of $5.

A pool in the stream that runs through the lower levels of the gardens.

There is another verry good lookout in this area, just south of Blackheath. Evans Lookout provides views into the Gross Valley and of some of the best Sandstone cliffs in the area. It provides parking for one end of the Evans Lookout to Govetts Leap walk, a very popular walk through what is known as the Grand Canyon. This is a walk that I would have loved to do but I am afraid that time has passed me by.

A view over the Grosse Valley from Evans Lookout.

By this time Aileen was feeling the effects of the chiropractor’s pummelling so we returned to our cabin to rest and prepare for dinner. Bernard is a keen golfer so decided that we should patronise the Blackheath Golf Club for dinner. We had another pleasant meal and had the dining room almost to ourselves.

That was not, however, the end of our day. Aileen turned eighty on 28th November this year. We could not pass up the opportunity to celebrate. We had shouted her dinner and Ruth had purchased a birthday cake and candles. When we returned to our cabin we continued the birthday celebration with cake. The candles could not be lit because we did not have matches and it was too late to try to borrow some. We sang “Happy birthday” and talked.

Then bed time. That is always a great time of day at our age.

Sydney & Blue Mountains – In the Mountains

Posted on November 27, 2024 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

A statue to the memory of William Charles Wentworth in Wentworth Falls

Today is the day on which we meet Aileen and Bernard at Blackheath. They are arriving from an overnight stop at Cooma and Ruth and I from three nights at Cronulla.

With time to spare, we stuck to surface roads and left tunnels to the local commuters. We took a rest break at the large Penrith shopping centre, to purchase some necessary supplies and enjoy morning coffee. We proceeded via the old Great Western Highway, crossing the Nepean River on the old bridge and re-joining the new freeway at Blaxland.

The four-lane highway now reaches west of Katoomba and is kept clear of local traffic to some degree by service roads. That can make finding somewhere to pull off a bit more difficult. We did a bit of backtracking but finally found a cafe in the main street of Wentworth Falls for lunch. It was located in the old Wentworth post-office building and offered a pleasant environment for a break. We understand towns that have lost their post-office. We have lost our PO at Redcliffe, too.

We arrived at our lodgings at about 2.00 PM with our rellies arriving about thirty minutes later. Our cabin was on the side of a hill, giving us views over the park. We soon were settled in with a cuppa. I took a walk with my camera as the evening approached. We adjourned to a local pub for dinner.

This photo understates the density of the fog.

Fog rising from the escarpment. These cliffs are near Medlow Bath.

Tuesday dawned fog bound. It finally lifted at about 10.00 AM so we set off to explore. Govetts Leap with its views into the Gross Valley was just down the road from our cabin so we started there. As expected, it was still fog bound. So we set off for lower country, returning to Blackheath and making our way down the steep narrow road to Megalong Valley. And is was particularly narrow as several hundred meters of half of the road had slidden down the hill during recent heavy rain. A weight limit was in place that would impact larger vehicles.

Trees in bloom were everywhere. This one was over the road from the caravan park.

Our drive took us past the tea house, primary school and Megalong Creek to the point where the Six Foot Track crosses Megalong Road. During the period since we last visited, a couple of wineries and an eco lodge have been established.

The Six Foot Track was closed for pest eradication so there was no walkers. This track was built to provide access for passenger carrying horses transporting tourists from Katoomba to Jenolan Caves in the early days. The track is 42 km long and provides the running track for an annual marathon. It can be walked in about three days. Two if you hurry. It’s name is drawn from the original specification that required it to be built at least six feet wide to allow two loaded horses to pass.

The Six Foot Track where it crosses the Megalong Valley Road.

Megalong Valley Tea Rooms serves good coffee and food.

The Megalong Valley Tea House was our lunch destination and provided acceptable food and coffee. Or tea for Bernard. There were a few flies about and cicadas serenaded us from the trees, leaving us in no doubt that we were in the bush.

The memorial to the Blue Mountain Crossing. Each of its sides tell part of the story.

With a full afternoon ahead of us we drove first to Mount Victoria and then Mount York. Mount Victoria is on the Great Western Highway, just before it plunges down Mount Victoria Pass through Hartley. However the best views to the west are to be seen from Mount York, just 5.5 km along Mount York Road to the north west.

Mount York has a number of monuments to exploration, plus a parking and camping area. There are many mountain tracks and rock climbs in the area. Through a stone archway is a pointed rectangular based monument that commutates, among other things, the first crossing of the Blue Mountains.

Along another track is a fenced lookout and Eddy Rock. Eddy Rock is a memorial to Commissioner Eddy who was in charge of NSW Railways when the railway was extended from Sydney to beyond the mountains. The views from Eddy Rock are spectacular and reach from Hartley, over Cox’s River towards Lithgow. Much green grass and acreage living.

Part of the view from Mount York, towards Lithgow. The access lanes to the Mount Victoria tunnel are in the upper left of the photo.

Eddy Rock, the memorial to the NSW Railway Commissioner.

I had read reports of a tunnel to built to provide a less steep road from the west to the top of the Blue Mountains. We had seen significant road works at Medlow Bath. Standing on the lookout at Mount York we could see extensive road duplication approaching the steep mountain side where the Great Western Highway starts its climb. Some research provided the information that a tunnel is under construction. It will steadily climb from the west and join the current highway between Blackheath and Medlow Bath.

From Mount York we worked our way back to Blackheath via various lookouts including Anvil Rock, Perry Lookdown and finally Govetts Leap Lookout.

There was a good wildflower display at Anvil Rock car park and Perry Lookdown provided more views of the Gross Valley. I think it is called a lookdown because of the views that it provides of the forest on the valley floor.

Govetts Leap is very popular as the size of the parking and viewing area suggests. It is said to have gained its name when a government surveyor named Govett jumped his horse over a cliff side fence, landing on a narrow ledge between the fence and a sheer drop of several hundred metres.

Govetts Leap Lookout provides excellent views into the Gross Valley and of the mountain ranges that form it. There are many broad expanses of Sandstone that reflects the sun’s rays on a sunny day. The lookout also provides stunning views of Bridal Veil Falls that drop 180 meters from a stream on the plateau to the valley floor. The water flow was not great but the sheer drop makes up for that. We have seen these falls with more water flowing and they look great. There are several walks in the area, some of them involving many hundreds of steps. Down and then back up!

The mountains viewed from Govetts Leap across the Grosse Valley.

An almost deserted Govetts Leap Lookout.

Ruth, Aileen and Bernard looking out from Govetts Leap.

We returned to the cabin to prepare for the evening. Bernard, a keen golfer, suggested the golf club. We enjoyed a very good meal, but almost had the club dining room to ourselves.

But the day was not quite over. On 28th November Aileen will turn 80. We could not let the event pass without celebrating, so we bought a birthday cake and some candles. We returned to the cabin after dinner to cut the cake and sing “Happy Birthday” but found that we had no matches to light the candles. Undaunted, the candles remained unlit and we dealt with most of the cake. finishing the task with coffee next morning.

Sydney & Blue Mountains – South to Sydney

Posted on November 25, 2024 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

The ruined bridge on the old railway over Tenterfield Creek. Northern NSW.

About six months ago Ruth and I received an invitation from a couple who have been close friends for sixty years, to attend Thelma’s eightieth birthday party. We first knew Thelma and Joe in Melbourne. We have now been in Brisbane for about forty years. About five years ago they abandoned cold Melbourne for sunny Ballina, on the north coast of New South Wales. We had noted at the time of the invitation that the trip to Ballina might just be extended to further south.

My remaining siblings in West Gippsland, Victoria made contact more recently, to remind Ruth and I of our agreement to meet them halfway every so often, suggesting that it was about time that we did it again. So, after taking time constraints into account, we agreed to meet in the Blue Mountains for the first four days in the first week of November. This resulted in the planning of a trip that would put us in touch with most of our relative who live in and around Sydney as well as the Victorian siblings.

Is this a Japanese Maple? It looked very pretty in the afternoon light.

A footpath side rose, one of many in this garden

The statue of a bull has stood outside the steakhouse for many years.

A Grass Tree in the highway media strip.

We departed Redcliffe on Tuesday 29^th October with Glen Innes as our first overnight stop. As we have aged, we eat less, so normally buy a small evening meal that can be heated in a microwave and eaten in our room. Before eating, I normally go for a walk to maintain my thee million steps per year regime. It was a pleasant walk along the edge of the New England Highway. As is usual, my camera and walkabout lens accompanied me.

On Wednesday morning, instead of proceeding south to Armidale and Tamworth, we turned west to Inverell and towards the highway now known as Fossickers Way. Initially we turned south to Copeton Dam on the Gwyder River. The dam was a construction project with which I had an association. A transport company for which I had worked back in the day, had been involved in transporting construction materials to the dam construction site.

My employer had purchased a Guyra based transport company to help balance freight volumes between Sydney and Brisbane. There is no money in running empty trucks around the country. The Guyra operation had the contract to transport asbestos from the Woods Reef mine near Barraba. During that period I had spent part of almost every week in the New England area, merging the accounts and systems of the Guyra company into its new parent company’s systems. Given what subsequently happened to the asbestos industry, I was interested to return after about fifty years, to see what remained.

A saddle wall over the adjoining stream greatly increases the capacity of the dam.

Access to Copeton Dam is not as I remembered it. An easily accessed caravan park that I recalled on the shores of the dam is now behind a steel security fence. I am not sure if it was open, as there did not seem to be much activity. We drove on to Bingara for a coffee break. Our previous call at this attractive town was probably ten years ago. Bingara is also on the Gwyder River.

The barricaded entrance to the old asbestos mine

The turn off Fossickers Way onto Woods Reef Road is a couple of kilometres north of Barraba. The location of the now non-existent town of Woods Reef and the mine, is around 17 kilometres from Fossickers Way. The huge scar across a hillside came as a surprise. I had only visited the mine sight once in 1977 and mining continued for another nine years after that.

St Luke’s Anglican Church is all that remains of the town of Woods Reef.

What I didn’t know until we visited the site was that Woods Reef had formally been a gold mining town. Gold was discovered in the late 1850s and a fully functioning village sprung up with the required support facilities. At its peak there were about 3,000 residents. But gold ran out in the late 1860s and the village disappeared. At some later time, a historical trail was established. It may still have been accessible at the time of my visit, but the asbestos scare would have killed it stone dead. But signs and a locked gate remain. So does St Locke’s Anglican Church which clearly has had more recent use.

We drove into the historic cemetery and photographed some isolated graves. The gate was open, as if expecting visitors or a funeral.

The mine is fenced and the access roads obstructed with piles of dirt. Warning signs have been placed beside the road but are now showing signs of weathering and other damage.

The sign appears to have been a target for someone.

A sign remaining from the days of walking tours through the old village.

We stopped for lunch in Barraba. I remember hearing about a verbal altercation between a local farmer and a mine manager. The farmer was objecting to the mine activity. The mine manager told him that but for the mine tumble weed world be blowing down the main street. There was no sign of tumble weed but, Barraba is now a very sleepy town.

We journeyed on to Newcastle for the night, visiting relatives in Toronto and West Wallsend the following day. We drove on to Cronulla on Friday afternoon. On Saturday we did a tour to Bowral in the Southern Highlands and Mount Annan near Campbelltown, to catch Ruth’s brother and a sister. On Sunday our daughter came from Erskineville to join us for lunch. She provided some detail about her recent six-week trip to Europe. She has inherited my itchy feet.

Far North Queensland – 2024- Days 14 to 16 – Airlie Beach to Home

Posted on September 28, 2024 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

We woke early on Thursday morning, as daylight flooded into our bedroom. I arose to greet the morning and to photograph the sunrise. Out on the horizon was an inbound cruise ship, sister ship to the boat in port yesterday.

As sunrises go, this one’s a bit disappointing

There was little cloud, so no early indication of where the sun would rise. I waited well beyond the published time of sunrise and then realised that old Sol was coming up right behind the highest mountain peak opposite to Airlie Beach. So, there was no brilliantly coloured sunrise to photograph.

Our view towards the ocean with the
cruise day markets in the open space

In the open area between the town and Port of Airlie, a market was taking shape. I assume that it is there for the additional visitors that the cruise ships bring to town. Even with the extra numbers, the town did not seem all that busy. But I guess many of the day visitors were doing things among the islands or on the reef.

Coffee was on offer here but there was no
seating or view

Around mid-morning we went out looking for coffee and headed towards Cannonvale, hoping for a water view. The only place that fitted our specifications was crowded. I took a walk along the Bicentennial Walking Track to build my days step count. We then went back to the town area of Airlie Beach where we achieved our coffee location objectives.

A small residential enclave at Cannonvale

Part of the Bicentennial waterside walking track

Marina Shores apartments neat the Airlie Beach boat harbour

Our eventual coffee venu in Airlie Beach

The man who took our coffee order asked if we were off the cruise ship. That lead to a discussion during which he told us that he was a retired charter skipper, so we talked Whitsunday Islands and cruising for a few minutes. As a retired recreational sailor myself and having chartered a catamaran in the Whitsundays with a group, this was something of a reminiscence, bringing back pleasant memories.

Our Airlie Beach stop was for two nights, for a bit of a break. We did not have a fixed program. We looked around at familiar sights, then returned to our unit to enjoy the view, lunch and a sleep, in that order.

Hillside residential has views that bring visitors back

A House Sparrow briefly alighted on our balcony rail

Ruth seated in part of the bar dining area at Northerlies Bar

Suitably rested, we drove out through Cannonvale to Woodwark to check out Northerlies, a large pub and bistro that provides magnificent views back to Airlie Beach. Too soon to eat again, we made do with one drink and returned to our unit for another restful evening.

Airlie Beach from Northerlies at Cannonvale

There had been speculation about morning fog at Cannonvale on the evening news. Airlie was clear and almost cloudless as we checked out, but heavy banks of fog blanketed most of Cannonvale but only effected the road in a couple of places.

Yeppoon, on the coast near Rockhampton, was our destination for the day. There is a good rest stop at Waverley Creek, north of Marlborough, that we have used for years. Once again, we stopped there for lunch. A fellow traveller stopped by to tell us of an explosion that had closed the highway south of Gladstone. We were not going that far on this day, so we paid little attention and continued on to Yeppoon and then Kinka Beach for the night.

A small sample of the Magpie Geese in the
swamp at Emu Park

After booking in to our motel, we drove to nearby Emu Park for supplies. I noticed some Magpie Geese beside the road on the way in. On our return we stopped to have a closer look, The geese had taken over a large area of swamp with heads poking out of the reeds. Hundreds of them.

Later, on the evening news, we heard all about the explosion and learned that the highway would be closed for several days. The explosion had been caused by a double road train carrying a full load of Ammonium Nitrate, the explosive used in the coal mines inland from the coast. The explosive had become mixed with diesel from the prime mover and did exactly what it was designed to do. BOOM.

On Saturday morning, when we reached South Rockhampton, signs confirmed Highway closure near Bororen, south of Gladstone. A section of two-lane highway had been demolished. No traffic could pass.

We considered back roads to take us to our next accommodation at Bargara, on the coast near Bundaberg. Finally, we decided to make directly for home. Our new route led through Mount Morgan, Biloela, Monto and Mundubbera, returning to the Bruce highway at Gympie, less than 150 km from home.

Weekend traffic meant fewer large trucks. The section of the road between Dululu and Biloela was undergoing extensive repairs necessitated by recent high rainfall. We were stopped at red lights for roadwork probably between fifteen and twenty times. Despite such interruptions we were making good time. We stopped at Biloela for a refuelling break for the car and ourselves and for a late lunch break at the road junction at Ban Ban Springs, east of Gayndah.

Then, at Gympie, we took a final break at Lake Alford, the rest area just south of the town. The lake is a water bird sanctuary. I fitted the birding lens to my camera and took a stroll. The sun was about to set and the birds were active as they so often are at the end of the day. The result was some good bird photos and shots of the setting sun and afterglow, for good measure.

It was an easy run from there on divided highway all the way to our turn from the highway at Burpengary.

Now in our mid-eighties and with Ruth’s mobility issues we have handled this trip quite well, we think. Well enough to have our next trip planned. Late in October we intend to go south again, to meet relatives and see more of this wonderful country in which we live.

Far North Queensland – 2024 – Days 13 to 15 – Atherton to Airlie Beach

Posted on September 23, 2024 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

Our original plan for our return had been a short drive to Atherton and then to return to Redcliffe via the inland route, through Charters Towers, Emerald, Roma and then home. But forecasts were predicting that burst of warmer weather towards the end of August. When we realised that the day we were to arrive in Roma the temperature was predicted to be 37C we recast our plans. We had come north looking for warmth, not heat.

All the ducks in a row. Pacific Black Ducks in this case

We were not able to cancel our Atherton motel booking so left it in place. It is not that much further to go south from Cairns via the Palmerston Highway to Innisfail, so that is what we did. Our new plans included a night at Townsville, two at Airlie Beach and then one each at Yeppoon and Bargara.

From our brunch break at Smithfield, we drove directly to Mareeba, stopping only at road works. That meant several stops. Our one stop in Mareeba was at Coffee Works where we enjoyed an ice-cream and acquired a bottle of their own locally made chocolate liquor. It is among our daughter-in-law’s favourite tipples, so makes a good present. This time for her birthday.

Before going to our Atherton accommodation, we drove to the south of the town, to Hastie’s Lagoon, a water bird sanctuary. The area around the lagoon is really a national park. It boasts an impressive two-level bird hide. But Atherton birds are every bit as smart as birds in other places and were mostly sitting or floating just beyond the the extreme range of my longest lens.

North Johnson River below where it emerges from the mountains

Next day, Tuesday, we had an uneventful trip to Townsville with breaks to view the one place where the North Johnson River Innisfail, coffee at North Innisfail and the Hinchinbrook lookout. We stopped for lunch at Ingham before heading to our Townsville accommodation, one block back from The Strand. We had views of The Strand area and out to Magnetic Island.

Madison Seabreeze Hotel, our Townsville accommodation

I took a stroll to The Strand and did my daily walk, in company with some of Townsville’s early evening walkers. I stopped to take photos while most other walkers just walked. We were all enjoying a pleasant evening.

Wednesday dawned with total cloud cover and a ground mist. As we were packing, a light shower drifted in from the ocean temporarily obscuring Castle Hill. As the lookout at the top of that huge pile of rocks was our first objective for the day, we watched with mild anxiety, but good luck prevailed. By the time the we checked out and set off the rain had cleared and some lighter areas of cloud were starting to show.

North Ward and the northern end of The Strand

The summit of Castle Hill was quite clear and reasonable for visibility and photos, although there was still rain falling to the west. The overnight rain had extinguished a large grass fire on Palm Island that had been sending huge clouds of smoke over the area north of Townsville and if still burning would have made photography problematical.

Traffic on the Bruce Highway was the heaviest that we had experienced south of Townsville, with constant traffic going north. But we still made good time. We made ourselves a cup of coffee at Brandon, just north of Ayr. South of Home Hill we drove the steep road to the picnic area at the summit of Mount Inkerman.

The mouth of the Burdekin River from Mount Inkerman

Last time that we made that drive we had to leave the caravan at the bottom beside the road. Drought prevailed and everything was brown and burned. This time greenery stretched to the horizon inland and to the Coral Sea to the east.

We called at Bowen for lunch and made it to our unit at Whitsunday Terraces at Airlie Beach by mid-afternoon.

Sunset over the hills behind Airlie Beach

We had booked to ensure a view, and while our accommodation was not as elevated as on our previous visit, we still had great views of the town, Whitsunday Passage and the many boats at anchor outside of the harbour. Beyond the boats was a P&O cruise liner, at anchor waiting for the return of day tripping passengers. With not too much daylight left passengers were soon boarded and the ship weighed anchor and commenced its overnight cruise, disappearing from view to the north west.

The sunset was a great display of colour. I pleasing end to the day.

Far North Queensland – 2024 – Days 9 to 11 – Fitzroy Island

Posted on September 21, 2024 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

Drizzle from the previous day had become overnight rain but had cleared by morning, leaving small puddles in the depressions in the paths and car park. We packed what we needed for the next two days and loaded the car. Ruth made her way down fourteen steps for the last time. We were happy with Cairns City Palms as a base and would return. But to a ground floor room next time.

The car was left parked in the secure parking area beneath the Shangri-La Hotel. We were left with a short walk to Fitzroy Island ferry reception. Then a longer walk to the ferry, as it was berthed far out on the longest wharf.

A P&O cruise ship was in Cairns harbour. We could not see its name but it was probably Pacific Encounter. Cruise ships moor really close to the city. Just a short walk to all that Cairns city has to offer.

Yarrabah Indigenous community covers much of Cape Grafton

There are almost always clouds around in tropical areas but they were mostly confined to the mountains. We enjoyed both a sunny and smooth crossing to the island. Fitzroy Island is just south of Cape Grafton, the peninsula south of Trinity Bay. The ferry stayed close to the shore. The only point of interest on the way is the large Indigenous settlement of Yarrabah. Green Island was visible in the hazey distance to starboard (left).

We were last off the ferry at Fitzroy Island as Ruth needed assistance on the gangway. That put us on the tail end of the queue at reception. The wait meant that our room was ready for us to occupy, which we immediately did.

Fitzroy Island Resort stretches along much of the natural bay that it faces. The accommodation wing has three floors but has lifts. We were on the ground floor in a studio room, without a water view, but the were plenty of places for us to sit with water views, sip drinks and talk to fellow guests.

The main swimming beach is a short walk from the accommodation

Facilities include all those that you would expect on a tropical island. One oddity is that the restaurant serves only breakfast and dinner but not lunch. At lunch time the dining room is used for day visitors on cruises that include meals.

Entrance from beach and access to the pool

Other ferry operators use Fitzroy Island for day cruises. Some drop their passengers and return later while others anchor off the beach for the period of the visit. Most visitors swim, sun bake, snorkel or dive.

Fitzroy Island “boasts” a nude beach, signposted on the island as the “Nudey Beach”. It is a walk of about 500 metres over a rocky path. The only bathers that we sighted on that beach were clothed. But “clothed” is a relative term on most beaches these days.

Guests and day visitors on uncatered trips have meals and drinks at Foxy’s Bar, located about 200 meters from the hotel. That is not a long walk, but the surface of the path is loose gravel, which made it a bit of a challenge for Ruth’s walker. But we managed.

We had realised before booking that food costs on an island with “captive” guests would be expensive and we weren’t wrong. Breakfast was $35 each and a two course evening meal was $66, either starter and main or main and desert. I think it was $86 for three courses. But the food was of good quality. At dinner we both had a starter of grilled prawns and main of roast duck breast. Quite delicious. Breakfast was buffet, and a well stocked buffet at that.

Beach where diving and snorkel boats beach to load passengers

Part of the outdoor dining area at the resort

We used Foxy’s Bar for dinner the second night and for lunch on our full day. Prices were lower, as most of Foxy’s Bar clients are day visitors who don’t have to eat main meals there. Drink prices were similar to mainland prices.

One of my reasons to return after our day visit a couple of years ago, was to do the walk to the lighthouse, which was reported to give good views of the island and adjacent coast. My walks guide book described it as a “moderate” walk along the old concrete road that was used to service the lighthouse in its manned operating days. The light now operates automatically, as they do in most lighthouses there days.

Wheel tracks that lead to the lighthouse. This was still the easy bit

The track was “moderate” in the same way as you experience “moderate” temperatures with one foot in the fire and the other in a bucket of ice. The first section is along the strip behind the beach. It is quite flat where it passes staff accommodation, the Cairns Turtle Rescue building and managers residence. Then the twin concrete wheel tracks started to climbed the ridge at what looked to me like a 45-degree angle.

The view of the lighthouse from the ferry

I persevered for an elevation gain of about 100 metres and decided to give it away. There was about another kilometre and a half to go and then a couple of kilometres back. The return downhill most of the way could be worse. A young couple, on their way back, were running down the slope. Oh, for those days again! My knees are the original set and are almost eighty five years old.

I made my way back down to level country then made my way to the beach and photographed my way back to the hotel. I realised on this visit that the lighthouse can be seen from the ferry when it is a bit off shore. It is quite elevated.

View of Cape Grafton on the mainland, from the resort Beach

Cairns Turtle Recovery Centre. Sick and injured turtles are brought here to recover and be released

Unwilling to fork out another $70 for two breakfasts, we purchased two muffins from the small island store which sufficed when supplemented by coffee from the room supplies. Foxy’s Bar does not open until 10.00 am by which time we were on the water on our way back to Cairns.

Back in Cairns, we paid the price to liberate our car and headed out to Smithfield, at the bottom of the climb to Kuranda and inland, where we enjoyed brunch before we commenced the climb up the range, heading to Mareeba.

Far North Queensland 2024 – Days 7 & 8 – Port Douglas & Green Island

Posted on September 18, 2024 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

a typical part of Cairns Botanic Gardens

I don’t think that we have ever visited Cairns without also visiting Port Douglas. Oh wait! On our first ever trip to Cairns, a road trip from Melbourne, at Christmas, about 56 years ago, we hadn’t even heard of Port Douglas and neither had most other Melbournians. We hadn’t heard of Christopher Skase, either.

As Thursday was the only day without a fixed starting activity, I took the opportunity to walk to The Esplanade. Reports suggested that the beach and water side parklands was a great bird photography sight. But not that day. I arrived at about 7.30 am but it seemed that half of Cairns had beaten me there. Clearly it is a favourite aera for morning exercises and there were many exercising. But they weren’t doing it quietly. I took some photos, but mostly birds with which I am already familiar.

First of all, we visited the Cairns Botanic Gardens. Unsurprisingly, it is a tropical rain forest paradise. A day at least could be spent wandering around the paths and roads. Even longer if you include the visitor centre and its coffee shop. I limited myself to about half an hour, but it was time well spent.

Botanic Gardens Visitor Centre including a cafe.

From the gardens we drove to Machins Beach to see the mouth of the Barron River. The banks of the stream and the beach seem to be popular fishing spots and a location for some quiet free camping. But I could sense those Crocodiles lurking just beneath the surface of the water. Much happier in our unit.

Barron River a little upstream from the mouth

Machins Beach near the Barron River mouth looking north

Palm Cove is one of our favourite places. We have fond memories of our brief stay there a couple of years ago. As we were passing, we called in for coffee and the views of the Coral Sea and Double Island. Double Island used to be home to a luxury resort. Cairns council is conducting a public conversation in an attempt to decide its future tourist use. A decision in principle seems to have been reached to redevelop it.

We drove on along that magic stretch of coast. Work is still in progress to fully restore the parts of the Cook Highway damaged in the deluges that followed Cyclone Jasper in December last year. Just a couple of delays were involved.

Four Mile Beach has seen some improvements at its northern end since we were last in Port Douglas. A new amenities block with changing facilities has been completed. Two new casual dining establishments now offer food and drink. New ramps and stairs provide improved access to the beach. In addition, there is now an area of striped umbrellas providing shade from the sun over sun lounges. The beach is rather a windy spot so I am not sure how they get the umbrellas to stay in place.

We made our normal visit to Flagstaff Hill to view, and photograph, the town and beach. Then off in search of a parking spot near Macrossan Street so that we could find a place for lunch. We chose a street side eatery called the Iron Bar. It was a bar, substantially constructed of corrugated iron. We dined from large share taste seafood platter.

A new eating location at Four Mile Beach. The new bathing facilities are right next door.

Four Mile Beach from Flagstaff Hill Lookout

The drive back to Cairns was incident free, with a repeat of the road works stops on the way up, but with us facing the opposite direction.

Cairns Harbourside from Green Island Ferry

Friday was our last day in Cairns. We had booked a ferry trip to Green Island. It was over fifty years since we had last visited. Since then the Jetty has been extended, the underwater observatory had gone and a resort has been built.

It was not a brilliant day, with strong winds and drizzle periods. The sun was in hiding for most of the day, but it was still about 25C, and comfortable if you were sheltered from the direct wind. We established ourselves in the public area near to the resort reception. There were lots of youngsters about. The pool generated a continual cacophony of sound.

The first time that I photographed a Buff-banded Rail, I thought that I had found something special. But at Green Island they are as common as Pigeons in a city park. They feed off tourist food scraps and are deliberately fed by some tourists, including us.

Green Island is a true coral cay. To make walking easier than ploughing through soft sand, extensive boardwalks have been built, including one that leads to the far south-east corner. Visitors go there to swim on calmer days or to kitesurf on days like we were experiencing. I walked there looking for birds that some claim to be quite profuse. But that must be on days with less wind. I found a few, but they were all in hiding from the wind. They included two Eastern Osprey hiding behind a chain-wire fence. They must be regularly fed, so don’t need to go fishing. Or perhaps it was too windy for them too.

This is where you get coffee at Green Island

Green Island Public Pool later in the day with only a few children

Another view of Green Island public area

With departure time near and rain squalls about, we made for the ferry. On the last unprotected stretch a gust of wind took my prised Tilley hat, which will now be on the floor of Davy Jones Locker. Pity! I will need to replace it as I had become quite attached to it. But obviously it was not attached to me quite well enough.

The swimming beach faces North, away from the prevailing south-easterlies

An Intermediate Egret sheltering from the wind

This Eastern Reef Egret looks like it is a bit cold

Back in Cairns the weather was fine. We were welcomed back to our parked car by the largest group of Bush-stone Curlews that I had ever seen. But my hands were too full of bits and pieces from the day out for me to take a photo.

Green Island and ferry jetty, from the ferry

A photo from the previous day of a Bush-stone Curlew

We returned to our unit via a laundromat. The washing had been accumulating.

Far North Queensland – 2024 – Day 6 – Skyrail and Kuranda Scenic Railway

Posted on September 17, 2024 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

Ruth and I photographed by one of our Japanese fellow passengers

It was a big day, for both of us, but particularly for Ruth.

We were picked up from neat to our motel by the Skyrail shuttle bus and were driven directly to the Skyrail terminal at Smithfield, as we were last pick up. There were rain clouds around with a clear treat of rain, but it was holding off or the moment.

Smithfield homes, as we lifted off at Cairns Skyrail Station

We had taken care when booking to ensure that Ruth would be able to access the Skyrail gondolas and were assured that she could be accommodated. And accommodate her they did. The Skyrail gondolas can be stopped for short periods. The whole section of the system can be stopped if necessary. But slowing was all that was required. I folded Ruth’s walker and took it on board. Staff then helped Ruth to board and get her seated. There was even time for two more people to join our gondola.

The gondola ahead about to pass a support pylon

So, we were whisked away into the air and carried towards the top of the first lift, which is also the first stop. The cable car operation is divided into two separate sections. The first lifts the cars to the top of the range to Red Peak where gondolas turn and return to the start. The Western section lifts gondolas from Kuranda through Barron Falls to Red Peak.

Most passengers alight at both stations. At Red Peak it is compulsory, unless you want to return to the start. The rainforest walk attracts most passengers. It is a most pleasant walk on an even surface. The walk at Barron Falls provides good views of the entire length of the Falls and much of the gorge.

View back over Trinity Bay to Cape Grafton

Part of the Board Walk at Red Peak station

The boardwalk was very suitable for Ruth’s walker, as the grades were gentle and the pathway quite wide. Displays and signs help visitors to understand what they are seeing.

A Strangler Fig tree beside the boardwalk at Red Peak station

At Barron Falls, a staff member to whom we spoke, showed us video on his phone of the falls at full flow. It would be spectacular to see. By the time that we arrived, high flows of a week or two earlier had reduced, but there was still a good volume of water flowing over the drop.

It is very peaceful gliding above the tree canopy. Breaks in the vegetation give glimpses of the under story, as do the walks at the stops. As you top Red Peak, the ranges of the Great Divide roll away into the distance and you look directly into Barron Gorge.

There is plenty of warning before the final station. The public address system asks you to look up so that a camera can take your photo while you are still in the gondola. For about $30 you can buy a copy of the photo. We passed on that.

When booking, we enquired about transport to the town, as that’s where all the services are, including lunch. They weren’t very clear, but we suspected that it would be necessary to walk. Our suspicions were confirmed by the absence of obvious modes of transport. So, we set off on foot with the other arrivals.

Barron Gorge and the hydro-power station, driven by water from a dam at the top of the Barron Gorge

The view into the Barron Gorge from Skyrail

Passengers on the short walk to the falls viewing point

The walk was about 500 metres I guess, and moderately steep, but we made it with a couple of rest stops. The first cafe that we saw got our business. That was my first coffee for the day, so it was most welcome. Rested, we walked a bit of the town and then took the path back down to the Kuranda Scenic Railway station which is adjacent to the Sky Rail station. We were there in plenty of time to rest up for the train journey.

A Banyan tree on the walk to Kuranda township

The Kuranda Hotel. Too many steps for suitable lunch venu

Last time we did the SkyRail and train experience we had seats to the left of the train when facing forward. That put other passenger heads between us and the view. The passenger in the window seat leaned out of the window most of the way taking photos so we saw little. This time we had a row of four seats to ourselves, so visibility was not a problem. Unfortunately, as the train stopped at Barron Falls Station, the rain started to fall so the photographic opportunities were quickly abandoned. The rain continued, so no one hung out of the windows taking photos.

Towards the bottom of the steep part of climb the railway passes Stoney Creek Falls and the bridge over Stoney Creek. This bridge is the most outstanding bridge on the line. The falls can be seen to the west of the line, towering above the train and cascading for tens of metres into a waterhole. Shortly after this point the train negotiates Horseshoe Bend, a very tight turn in railway terms. Passengers can look back or forward, depending where they are sitting on the train, and see the opposite end of the train preceding or following them. Negotiating the turn is done at a very slow pace, with much screeching of wheels on steel rails.

The rear of our train, partly obscured by the window frame

The sun was shining again by the time we reached Cairns. I walked back to our motel to collect the car, returned to the station to collect Ruth. Then back up fourteen steps.

An Orchid beside our small rear balcony in Cairns

Far North Queensland 2024 – Days 3 to 5 – Rockhampton to Cairns.

Posted on September 9, 2024 by Kevin & Ruth Sheather

Area near the river and CBD in Rockhampton

In the days before we set off for Far North Queensland, my Facebook news feed had regularly thrown up tourism advertisements from Rockhampton tourist authorities promoting the magnificent views available from the lookout at Mount Archer and a tree top walk on the same mountain top. That all sounded good, so after a short drive along the banks of the Fitzroy River on the South side, we crossed the river and took the road to Mount Archer.

Much of the mountain is a national park, the boundaries of which commence at the bottom of the hill. Like most national parks the roads have a 40-kph speed limit. We were immediately behind a tourist bus which was climbing the mountain at 20-kph. The road is very winding but after a while the bus driver signalled us past and we were able to return to the speed limit.

A limited view of the Fitzroy River from Mount Archer

Rockhampton from the neighbouring residential area

Parkland by the river near Rockhampton CBD

We reached the summit, but what a disappointment! When the lookout was first built the views probably were spectacular. But it seems that the influence of Green councillors has precluded trimming of the trees, to the point where they obscure most of the view. One of our fellow visitors was lamenting that he had not brought his chain saw,

Of the treetop walk we could find no sign, nor any mention of it on the signage at the park entrance. The best views are to be had from the small area of residential development that shares the mountain top with the national park and enjoys permanent spectacular views.

Our Bowen cabin with our car parked at the front stairs

We had booked a caravan park cabin in Bowen for two nights. It was a while since we had spent much time in Bowen, which is an attractive regional centre, with some excellent tourist facilities. The cabin was in good condition, fairly new and comfortable. It was located at the Queen’s Beach Tourist Village, which was packed with grey nomads.

Bowen is located on a peninsula and has both a northern and southern aspect. Horseshoe Beach at the north-eastern tip provides an easterly aspect as well.

Kings Beach between Horseshoe Beach and Flagstaff Hill

Coral Cove at the North-easterly tip of the North facing beaches

On the day we had available, we started at the mouth of the Don River and worked our way east to Horseshoe Beach and Rose Bay. The day was perfect and holiday makers were making the most of it. We made a quick call at Mullers Lagoon to check for bird life before visiting the main town centre. On our last visit here we still had a caravan and stayed at the caravan park by the harbour.

North Head Island Lighthouse marks the northern point of the entrance to Bowen Harbour

Finally, we drove to the summit of Flagstaff Hill for the views over the town and back south over the bay to Cape Gloucester and Gloucester Island, before returning to the cabin for lunch and a rest.

At about 4.00 PM we returned to Muller Lagoon for some bird photography and from there went back to Flagstaff Hill to watch the sunset from that vantage point. It wasn’t a great night for sunset colour, as there was almost no cloud cover to the west, but to watch the changing light on Bowen Harbour and the moon rise over Gloucester Island was not a bad substitute.

On successive trips north we have noticed the increase in horticulture and market gardens, that seem to be expanding around the larger towns and occupying some of the land formally used for sugar cane production. Bowen has mangos aplenty as indicated by the Big Mango at the southern approach to the town, but tomatoes are now very much in evidence. I wonder if we will ever see a Big Tomato at the entrance to the town.

A nesting tree of Little Pied Cormorants

Bowen is a coal town with many of its residents employed at the gigantic coal loading facility at Abbott Point, just 30 km to the north. In addition, I would think it an ideal location for fly in fly out employees in the mines of the Bowen Basin just over the range to the west. Perhaps drive in drive out as well.

The Big Mango is located at the Visitor Information Centre at the southern entrance to the town

On Tuesday morning we departed to Cairns under cloudy skies. By Townsville the sky had darkened and as we passed through Ingham and approached the mountains near Hinchinbrook Island, the rain started to fall in earnest. An umbrella was required to leave the car for lunch at Innisfail, during what was, according to the news, a 50 mm fall of rain.

Just south of Cairns the rain abated, but returned after we had settled into our motel unit in North Cairns. When it rains during holidays you just have to deal with it. The greater problem was that in booking I had failed to specify a ground floor room, so Ruth had to make it up fourteen steps. We dealt with that problem, for the four nights that we were there, by going out in the morning and returning at the end of the day, when all activities were done.